Original Air: BlogBloghttps://www.originalair.com/Tue, 19 Mar 2024 04:53:33 GMTurn:store:1:blog:post:135https://www.originalair.com/the-iconic-car-stars-of-1980s-television-a-nostalgic-drive-down-memory-laneThe Iconic Car Stars of 1980s Television: A Nostalgic Drive Down Memory Lane<p>The 1980s was a decade that witnessed an explosion of vibrant pop culture, memorable fashion, and technological advancements that paved the way for modern entertainment. Among the era's most enduring legacies are the TV series that captured the hearts of millions. The vehicles featured in these shows were more than just modes of transportation; they were characters in their own right, embedded in the cultural fabric of the decade. In this comprehensive exploration, we'll take a nostalgic journey through the most iconic vehicles that graced our screens and became legends on the asphalt.</p> <h2><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/images/uploaded/blog/knight rider kitt.jpg" alt="pontiac trans am ac kit" width="600" /></h2> <p> </p> <h2>K.I.T.T. – The Knight Industries Two Thousand</h2> <p>When it comes to '80s TV series vehicles, none is more iconic than the Knight Industries Two Thousand (K.I.T.T.) from "Knight Rider." K.I.T.T. wasn't just a car; it was a sentient being with artificial intelligence, capable of conversation, reasoning, and an emotion akin to loyalty. This sleek, black Pontiac Trans Am was equipped with high-tech gadgetry, including a Turbo Boost for jumps, a near-indestructible shell, and the ability to drive itself. K.I.T.T.'s personality and futuristic features left an indelible mark on pop culture, making it one of the most memorable elements of the series.</p> <h2><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/images/uploaded/blog/general lee.jpg" alt="dodge charger ac kit" width="600" /></h2> <p> </p> <h2>The General Lee – A Symbol of Rebellious Spirit</h2> <p>"The Dukes of Hazzard" brought us the unforgettable 1969 Dodge Charger, known as The General Lee. This car was not just a vehicle for Bo and Luke Duke to make their escapades; it was a symbol of the show’s rebellious spirit. With its signature horn playing the first twelve notes of "Dixie," the bright orange Charger with the Confederate flag on its roof was recognized for its spectacular stunts, especially its gravity-defying jumps. Despite the controversy surrounding its iconography in recent years, The General Lee remains a hallmark of '80s automotive excellence.</p> <h2><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/images/uploaded/blog/a-team van.jpg" alt="gmc vandura ac parts" width="600" /></h2> <p> </p> <h2>The A-Team Van – A Ride for Heroes</h2> <p>Another memorable vehicle was the 1983 GMC Vandura, the transport for the fugitive soldiers of fortune in "The A-Team." With its distinctive black and metallic gray paint job and red stripe, the A-Team Van was not only their mode of transport but also their mobile headquarters. The van was kitted out with all sorts of customizations that suited the team's needs for their daring missions. It was a symbol of the team's ruggedness and resourcefulness and became synonymous with the show’s theme of camaraderie and adventure.</p> <h2><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/images/uploaded/blog/magnum pi ferrari.jpg" alt="ferrari 308 ac parts" width="600" /></h2> <p> </p> <h2>Ferrari 308 GTS – Magnum P.I.'s Sleek Companion</h2> <p>No discussion of '80s TV cars would be complete without mentioning the Ferrari 308 GTS driven by Thomas Magnum in "Magnum P.I." This luxury sports car was as suave and sophisticated as the show’s protagonist, making it the perfect accessory for a private investigator residing in Hawaii. The 308 GTS boasted a V8 engine and a top speed of over 150 mph, encapsulating the era's opulence and the breezy lifestyle of the rich and famous. It was not only a pleasure to watch but also represented the pinnacle of '80s automotive design.</p> <h2><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/images/uploaded/blog/hardcastle mccormick coyote x.jpg" alt="coyote x" width="600" /></h2> <p> </p> <h2>The Coyote X – A Speed Demon</h2> <p>"The Hardcastle and McCormick" series introduced us to the Coyote X, a car that looked like it was ripped straight from a superhero comic book. This exotic, red sports car was a modified version of the McLaren M6GT, boasting scissor doors and an audacious rear wing. Though it wasn't as recognized as K.I.T.T. or The General Lee, the Coyote X held its own with its incredible speed capabilities and sleek aesthetics.</p> <h2><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/images/uploaded/blog/back to the future delorean.jpg" alt="delorean ac parts" width="600" /></h2> <p> </p> <h2>DeLorean DMC-12 – Back to the Future's Timeless Machine</h2> <p>While the DeLorean DMC-12 may be more famous for its role in the "Back to the Future" film series, it did make notable television appearances during the '80s, further cementing its status in pop culture. With its gull-wing doors, stainless steel body, and association with time travel, the DeLorean is one of the most iconic cars of all time. Although not tied to one specific TV series, its presence in '80s media is undeniable and deserving of a mention on our list.</p> <h2><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/images/uploaded/blog/fall guy truck.jpg" alt="80s gmc truck ac parts" width="600" /></h2> <p> </p> <h2>The Fall Guy's GMC Truck – A Stuntman's Dream</h2> <p>"The Fall Guy" showcased a 1982 GMC K-2500 Sierra Grande pickup truck, which was as tough and versatile as the show’s stuntman protagonist, Colt Seavers. This heavy-duty vehicle was not just a means to get from one stunt location to another; it was an integral part of the stunts themselves. With its robust build and ability to handle rough terrain, the GMC truck was a fitting companion for the high-octane adventures of "The Fall Guy."</p> <p> </p> <p>The 1980s was a decade that left an indelible mark on the world of television and the automotive industry. The vehicles that starred in these iconic series were more than just cars; they were symbols of the times, representing the spirit of adventure, innovation, and style that defined the era. From K.I.T.T.’s futuristic charm to the General Lee’s daredevilry, each car had its unique allure and character, contributing significantly to the shows' success and their lasting legacy in popular culture.</p> <p>Whether you're a fan of high-speed chases, cutting-edge technology, or the sheer nostalgia of these classic series, the cars of the 1980s TV shows offer a captivating journey through one of the most exciting eras of television history. What is your favorite 80's TV show vehicle?</p>urn:store:1:blog:post:134https://www.originalair.com/pontiac-the-rise-and-roar-of-a-muscle-car-icon-in-general-motors-historyPontiac: The Rise and Roar of a Muscle Car Icon in General Motors' History<p><strong><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/images/uploaded/blog/Pontiac-Logo.png" alt="Pontiac Logo" width="400" /></strong></p> <p><strong>Pontiac</strong>, a marque of automobile, was established in the year <strong>1926</strong> as a companion make for General Motors' Oakland. Rooted in the city of Pontiac, Michigan, where the first Pontiac car was produced, the brand's origin story is a testament to GM's strategy of introducing a car brand that filled the pricing gap between Chevrolet and Oakland. The very first Pontiac vehicle, the <strong>Chief of the Sixes</strong>, was noteworthy for its affordability and six-cylinder engine, a rarity in a market dominated by four-cylinder engines. This initial model set the stage for Pontiac's reputation for delivering innovative technology at accessible prices.</p> <p><strong>Pontiac's Rise to Prominence</strong></p> <p>During the 1930s and 1940s, Pontiac gained momentum with a series of successful models. The brand distinguished itself with stylish designs and powerful engines, appealing to a broad audience looking for performance and luxury at reasonable prices. In the post-World War II era, Pontiac made a significant impact with models like the <strong>Streamliner</strong> and <strong>Chieftain</strong>, which offered a blend of luxury, performance, and cutting-edge design.</p> <p><strong><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/images/uploaded/blog/pontiac-air-conditioning.jpg" alt="1950s Pontiac" width="600" /></strong></p> <p><strong>The 1950s: A Decade of Innovation</strong></p> <p>The 1950s marked a golden era for Pontiac, with the introduction of the iconic <strong>Bonneville</strong> in 1957. This model epitomized the brand's commitment to performance, featuring a high-powered V8 engine and sleek, aerodynamic styling. The Bonneville, along with other models like the <strong>Star Chief</strong> and <strong>Catalina</strong>, cemented Pontiac's reputation as a producer of high-performance, stylish cars.</p> <p><strong>The 1960s: The Birth of the Muscle Car Era</strong></p> <p>The 1960s marked a revolutionary period for Pontiac, a decade where it became synonymous with American muscle cars. The introduction of the 1964 Pontiac GTO was a groundbreaking moment. This vehicle, with its powerful 389 cubic inch V8 engine and aggressive styling, captivated the nation's youth and ignited the muscle car craze. It wasn't just about raw power; the GTO also offered improved handling and a sporty aesthetic, making it a total package for performance enthusiasts. Following the GTO's success, Pontiac expanded its muscle car lineup with the Firebird in 1967, including the high-performance Firebird Trans Am in 1969. These models, with their sleek designs and powerful engines, became icons of American automotive culture, further establishing Pontiac as a leader in performance vehicles.</p> <p><strong><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/images/uploaded/blog/Pontiac-GTO.jpg" alt="Pontiac GTO Air Conditioning" width="600" /></strong></p> <p><strong>The 1970s: Navigating Challenges and Innovations</strong></p> <p>The 1970s were a challenging time for Pontiac and the American auto industry as a whole. The oil crisis of 1973 led to a shift in consumer preferences towards fuel efficiency over performance. Pontiac responded by diversifying its lineup to include smaller, more fuel-efficient models like the Pontiac Ventura and Sunbird. However, the brand did not abandon its performance roots. In 1973, the Pontiac Trans Am SD-455 was introduced, boasting one of the most powerful engines of the era. Despite the challenges, Pontiac continued to innovate, introducing the Grand Am in 1973, a car that combined luxury and performance. The 1970s also saw the debut of the iconic Pontiac Firebird Trans Am, which gained fame through its appearance in popular culture, most notably in the film "Smokey and the Bandit."</p> <p><strong><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/images/uploaded/blog/Pontiac-Firebird-Formula.jpg" alt="Pontiac Firebird AC" width="600" /></strong></p> <p><strong>The 1980s: A Focus on Technology and Design</strong></p> <p>The 1980s saw Pontiac focus on technological advancements and futuristic designs. One of the most significant models of this era was the 1984 Pontiac Fiero, a mid-engine sports car that was a departure from the brand's traditional muscle car image. The Fiero was unique for its use of a space frame design and plastic body panels, and it initially enjoyed strong sales and critical acclaim. Additionally, Pontiac made significant strides in engine technology during this decade. The 1986 Grand Prix 2+2 was a notable model, designed for NASCAR homologation, featuring an aerodynamic body and a performance-oriented engine. The 1980s also saw the introduction of the Pontiac 6000 STE, a technologically advanced sedan that offered all-wheel drive, a feature rare at the time.</p> <p><strong><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/images/uploaded/blog/pontiac-fiero.jpg" alt="Pontiac Fiero" width="600" /></strong></p> <p><strong>The 1990s: Adapting to a New Automotive Landscape</strong></p> <p>In the 1990s, Pontiac adapted to the changing automotive landscape by focusing on a broader market appeal while maintaining its performance heritage. The decade began with the introduction of the Pontiac Sunfire in 1995, a compact car that offered affordability, efficiency, and a sporty edge. Pontiac also revitalized the Firebird and Trans Am models with significant redesigns in 1993, featuring more aerodynamic styling and powerful engines, appealing to a new generation of car enthusiasts. The 1997 Pontiac Grand Prix was another highlight, offering a supercharged engine in the GTP model, a feature that set it apart in the mid-size sedan market. Despite these efforts, the 1990s marked the beginning of challenges for Pontiac, with increased competition and changing consumer preferences.</p> <p><strong><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/images/uploaded/blog/Pontiac_Grand_Prix.jpg" alt="Pontiac Grand Prix" width="600" /></strong></p> <p><strong>Innovations in Design and Engineering</strong></p> <p>Throughout its history, Pontiac was at the forefront of automotive design and engineering. The brand was known for its radical and innovative styling, as seen in cars like the <strong>Firebird</strong> and <strong>Fiero</strong>. Pontiac also pioneered technological advancements, such as the introduction of the first turbocharged V8 in the <strong>1962 Grand Prix</strong> and the first mass-produced, high-performance overhead-cam six-cylinder engine in the <strong>1966 Tempest</strong>.</p> <p><strong><br /></strong><strong>The Decline and Discontinuation</strong><strong><br /></strong></p> <p>Despite its numerous successes, Pontiac faced challenges in the late 20th and early 21st centuries. Changing market trends, increasing fuel prices, and stiff competition led to a decline in sales. GM's financial difficulties further exacerbated the situation, leading to the announcement in 2009 that the Pontiac brand would be discontinued. The last Pontiac, a <strong>2010 G6</strong>, rolled off the assembly line in January 2010, marking the end of an era.</p> <p><strong>Legacy and Impact on the Automotive Industry</strong></p> <p>Pontiac's legacy in the automotive industry is undeniable. The brand was a trailblazer in automotive design, performance, and innovation. Its influence can be seen in the muscle car culture, the evolution of automotive design, and the development of high-performance engines. The spirit of Pontiac lives on through a dedicated fan base and classic models that continue to be celebrated and collected.</p> <p>The story of Pontiac is one of innovation, performance, and style. From its inception in the 1920s to its culmination in 2010, Pontiac left an indelible mark on the automotive world. The brand's journey through the highs of the muscle car era to the lows of its discontinuation is a compelling chapter in the history of General Motors and the American automobile industry.</p> <p>If you are looking to restore or rebuild a Pontiac AC System, <a href="https://www.originalair.com/search?adv=true&amp;cid=0&amp;mid=0&amp;vid=0&amp;q=pontiac&amp;sid=true&amp;isc=true&amp;orderBy=undefined">click here to view all our upgrade kits!</a></p>urn:store:1:blog:post:132https://www.originalair.com/from-classic-to-iconic-the-c4-corvettes-timeless-appealFrom Classic to Iconic: The C4 Corvette's Timeless Appeal<h2>All About the C4 Corvette: Unveiling a Timeless Classic</h2> <p>The Chevrolet Corvette has long been an emblem of American automotive prowess, with the C4 Corvette representing a significant chapter in its illustrious history. Unveiled in 1984 and produced through 1996, this model heralded a new era for the legendary sports car, combining sleek design, innovative technology, and thrilling performance. Here, we delve into the intricate details that make the C4 Corvette a true icon.</p> <p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/images/uploaded/blog/1984 Corvette.jpg" alt="1984 Corvette AC" width="600" /></p> <h2>The Evolution of the C4 Corvette: A Glimpse into Its Legacy</h2> <p>The C4 Corvette didn't just materialize out of thin air; it was the result of years of automotive evolution and visionary engineering. With its predecessor, the C3 Corvette, aging gracefully but steadily, the need for innovation was palpable. The C4 Corvette rose to this challenge, redefining what it meant to be a high-performance sports car.</p> <h3>Design and Styling: A Leap into Modernity</h3> <p>Bold and Futuristic: The C4 Corvette's design was a dramatic departure from its predecessors. It boasted a sleeker, more aerodynamic body that not only turned heads but also improved performance. The low, wide stance and sharp, angular lines gave it a distinctly futuristic look.</p> <p>A Convertible Renaissance: In 1986, the C4 Corvette brought back the convertible option after an 11-year hiatus, further broadening its appeal.</p> <h3>Performance and Engineering: The Heart of the C4</h3> <p>Powertrain: At its debut, the C4 Corvette was equipped with a 5.7-liter V8 engine, capable of delivering impressive power and torque. Over the years, this engine was continually refined, culminating in the introduction of the LT5 engine in the ZR-1 model in 1990.</p> <p>Suspension and Handling: The C4 Corvette's suspension system was a marvel of its time. The adoption of a lightweight and strong aluminum suspension, along with the introduction of the innovative Selective Ride Control in later models, provided a driving experience that was both comfortable and exhilarating.</p> <p>Braking and Safety: With power comes responsibility, and the C4 Corvette didn't skimp on safety. The introduction of anti-lock brakes in 1986 was a significant advancement, ensuring that drivers could handle the car's power with confidence.</p> <h3>Interior and Comfort: Blending Sportiness with Luxury</h3> <p>Driver-Oriented Cockpit: The interior of the C4 Corvette was designed with the driver in mind. The cockpit-style layout, with its digital dash and sporty yet comfortable seats, provided a driving experience that was both engaging and luxurious.</p> <p>Technological Advancements: Throughout its production years, the C4 Corvette saw numerous technological upgrades, including improved audio systems, electronic climate control, and advanced driver aids, making it not just a performance car but also a comfortable daily driver.</p> <p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/images/uploaded/blog/c4-corvette-interior.jpg" alt="C4-Corvette-AC-Controls" width="600" /></p> <h3>The Air Conditioning System: Comfort and Control</h3> <p>Innovative Climate Control: The C4 Corvette was ahead of its time with its climate control system. It offered drivers precise control over the cabin temperature, ensuring comfort in all weather conditions.</p> <p>AC Controls and Features: The air conditioning controls in the C4 Corvette were intuitively designed, allowing easy adjustments. The system was robust and efficient, a testament to Chevrolet's commitment to driver comfort.</p> <p>Maintenance and Upkeep: Proper maintenance of the AC system is crucial for optimal performance. Regular checks, cleaning of filters, and servicing by qualified technicians can help preserve the system's efficiency and longevity.</p> <h2>The Cultural Impact of the C4 Corvette</h2> <p>The C4 Corvette wasn't just a car; it was a cultural phenomenon. It graced the covers of magazines, appeared in numerous movies and TV shows, and became a symbol of American automotive excellence. Its popularity among enthusiasts and collectors remains strong, testament to its timeless appeal and enduring legacy.</p> <h2>The C4 Corvette in the Motorsports Arena</h2> <p>The racetrack was where the C4 Corvette truly shone. Its formidable presence in motorsports, particularly in endurance racing, showcased its durability and performance capabilities. The C4 Corvette's successes on the track further cemented its reputation as a high-performance sports car.</p> <h2>C4 Corvette Variants: A Diverse Lineup</h2> <h3> </h3> <h3>The ZR-1: The King of the Hill</h3> <p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/images/uploaded/blog/1990 Corvette ZR1.jpg" alt="1990 C4 Corvette ZR1" width="600" /></p> <p>Introduced in 1990, the Corvette ZR-1, also known as "King of the Hill," was a game-changer. With its LT5 engine developed in collaboration with Lotus, it offered unprecedented power and speed, making it one of the most sought-after variants of the C4 Corvette.</p> <h3>Collector Edition and Grand Sport</h3> <p>As the C4 Corvette neared the end of its production, Chevrolet released special models like the Collector Edition and the Grand Sport. These limited-edition variants, with their unique styling and performance enhancements, became instant classics and highly prized collectibles.</p> <h2>Caring for Your C4 Corvette: Maintenance and Preservation</h2> <p>Owning a C4 Corvette comes with the responsibility of proper maintenance and care. Regular servicing, using quality parts, and proper storage are crucial in preserving the car's performance and aesthetics. This includes taking care of the AC system to ensure a comfortable driving experience. Joining Corvette clubs and communities can also be an invaluable resource for advice and support.</p> <h2><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/images/uploaded/blog/1987 Chevrolet Corvette.jpg" alt="Chevy Corvette Convertible" width="600" /></h2> <p> </p> <h2>Celebrating the C4 Corvette's Enduring Legacy</h2> <p>The C4 Corvette stands as a testament to automotive innovation, performance, and design. Its impact on car culture and its continued reverence among enthusiasts make it not just a piece of history, but a living legend. Whether you're a proud owner or an admirer, the C4 Corvette continues to captivate and inspire, remaining an indelible part of the Corvette lineage.</p> <p>Need AC parts to restore and maintain your Corvette? <a href="https://www.originalair.com/search?adv=true&amp;cid=0&amp;mid=0&amp;vid=0&amp;q=corvette&amp;sid=true&amp;isc=true&amp;orderBy=undefined">Click here to view all Chevy Corvette AC parts!</a></p>urn:store:1:blog:post:133https://www.originalair.com/from-chrysler-to-dodge-the-rv2-ac-compressors-role-in-automotive-royaltyFrom Chrysler to Dodge: The RV2 AC Compressor's Role in Automotive Royalty<h2>History of the RV2 AC Compressor</h2> <p>In the automotive landscape, the AC compressor plays a pivotal role in ensuring comfort during our journeys. One such gem from history is the RV2 AC Compressor. Known for its robust design and efficiency, it graced the engine bays of many iconic vehicles.</p> <h2>Origins and Early Development</h2> <p>As vehicles evolved to prioritize in-cabin comfort, the RV2 AC Compressor emerged as a beacon of innovation. Named RV2 due to its radial design featuring two cylinders, this compressor soon became synonymous with effective and reliable cooling.</p> <h2><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/images/uploaded/blog/61-76-rv2-compressor-rebuild-compressor-only.jpeg" alt="RV2 Compressor" width="600" /></h2> <h2>Vehicles Graced by RV2</h2> <p>The RV2 AC Compressor was the pride of several classic cars. Among the most notable are:</p> <ul> <li>Chrysler's luxury lineup from the late 1960s to mid-1970s.</li> <li>Several models from Dodge during the golden era of muscle cars.</li> <li>The elegant Plymouth sedans that dominated American roads during the 1970s.</li> </ul> <p>Its versatility and reliable performance made it a favorite among these brands, ensuring drivers could enjoy their journeys in sheer comfort.</p> <h2>Technological Distinctiveness</h2> <p>Its large size was once an industry standard, providing substantial cooling capabilities, particularly for larger vehicles. The radial design wasn't just for aesthetics; it was a testament to efficiency and minimized energy consumption. Every component, from pistons to the compressor clutch, was crafted to ensure longevity and optimal performance.</p> <h2>Restoration and Modern Use</h2> <p>While modern vehicles have shifted to more compact and efficient compressors, the allure of the RV2 remains. For classic car enthusiasts, restoring and maintaining an RV2 AC Compressor isn’t just about preserving a part; it’s about keeping a piece of history alive.</p> <p>Here’s why one should consider restoring it:</p> <ol> <li><strong>Authenticity:</strong> Keeping the RV2 in vintage models maintains their authenticity, enhancing their value and appeal.</li> <li><strong>Reliability:</strong> The RV2’s robust design ensures it can still offer stellar performance once restored.</li> <li><strong>Nostalgia:</strong> For many, the RV2 brings back memories of a bygone era, making drives in classic cars all the more special.</li> </ol> <h2>Legacy and Modern Relevance</h2> <p>The RV2 AC Compressor's influence on modern compressors is evident. Its design principles and engineering techniques are still studied and admired. Though not commonplace in today's vehicles, its importance in automotive history cannot be understated.</p> <p>The RV2 AC Compressor is not just a component; it’s a chapter in the rich tapestry of automotive evolution. Whether you’re a car enthusiast or a curious historian, understanding its significance and considering its restoration is a nod to an era where engineering and passion converged.</p>urn:store:1:blog:post:130https://www.originalair.com/revving-up-nostalgia-the-thunderbirds-ride-through-timeRevving Up Nostalgia: The Thunderbird's Ride Through Time!<p>The Ford Thunderbird, often referred to simply as the 'T-Bird', stands as a testament to American automotive ingenuity and design. Over the years, this car has not only undergone numerous evolutions but also faced stiff competition, continually adapting to market demands and trends. This article offers a deep dive into the different eras of the Thunderbird, exploring its key features, optional extras, and the competition it faced throughout each decade.</p> <h2><strong>Origins of the Thunderbird: Setting the Stage</strong></h2> <p>Debuting in 1955, the Thunderbird was Ford's answer to Chevrolet's Corvette. But rather than being a direct competitor, the Thunderbird forged its own path, prioritizing luxury alongside performance.</p> <h3><strong><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/images/uploaded/blog/ford-thunderbird-ac.jpg" alt="Ford Thunderbird" width="600" /></strong></h3> <h3><strong>The 1950s: A New Dawn in Luxury and Performance</strong></h3> <p>In its inception, the Thunderbird was a two-seater roadster, designed with luxury in mind. The 1955 model boasted a 292 Y-block V8 engine. By 1958, responding to public demand, the car evolved into a larger four-seater model.</p> <p><em>Options and Features</em>: Some of the notable options included power windows, power seats, and the groundbreaking inclusion of air conditioning in 1958.</p> <p><em>Competition</em>: The primary competitor during this era was the Chevrolet Corvette, which leaned more towards performance rather than the T-Bird's luxury focus.</p> <h3><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/images/uploaded/blog/ford-thunderbird-interior.jpg" alt="Ford Thunderbird AC Parts" width="600" /></h3> <h3>The 1960s: Embracing Modernity and the Jet Age</h3> <p>Aerodynamics became central in this era. The Thunderbird was redesigned with sleek lines, embracing the Jet Age's aesthetics. Bigger engines and advanced technological features became a standard.</p> <p><em>Options and Features</em>: Options such as disc brakes and an AM/FM radio were introduced. The 1967 model introduced the 428-cubic inch V8 engine, giving it an edge in power.</p> <p><em>Competition</em>: This decade saw competition intensifying with the likes of the Pontiac Grand Prix and the Buick Riviera.</p> <h3>The 1970s to 1990s: Adaptation and Evolution</h3> <p>These decades brought vast changes in the automotive industry. The Thunderbird, despite facing challenges like the oil crisis, continued to innovate.</p> <p><em>Options and Features</em>: The T-Bird underwent major redesigns during these decades. Notably, the 1983 model offered an optional turbocharged four-cylinder, while the 1989 Super Coupe boasted a supercharged V6.</p> <p><em>Competition</em>: Rivals like the Chevrolet Monte Carlo and Dodge Charger gave the Thunderbird a run for its money.</p> <h3><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/images/uploaded/blog/Modern-Ford-Thunderbird.jpg" alt="2002 Ford Thunderbird" width="600" /></h3> <h3>The 2000s: Nostalgia Meets Modernity</h3> <p>The new millennium saw the Thunderbird returning to its roots. The 2002 model, a two-seater convertible, paid homage to its original 1950s design.</p> <p><em>Options and Features</em>: Modern amenities like dual-zone automatic climate control and CD players melded with the retro design.</p> <p><em>Competition</em>: In this era, the Thunderbird faced competition from modern luxury roadsters like the Mercedes-Benz SLK and the BMW Z3.</p> <h3>Thunderbird in Pop Culture</h3> <p>Beyond its automotive significance, the Thunderbird holds a special place in pop culture. Films like "Thelma &amp; Louise" and "American Graffiti" featured this iconic car, while musicians often referenced the T-Bird in their lyrics, solidifying its legendary status.</p> <p>While the production of the Thunderbird has come to a halt, its legacy is undeniable. With its rich history, innovative features, and the ability to adapt to changing times, the Ford Thunderbird will forever remain an iconic figure in the world of automobiles.</p> <p>If you are in need of restoring your Ford Thunderbird's AC system, <a href="https://www.originalair.com/search?adv=true&amp;cid=0&amp;mid=0&amp;vid=0&amp;q=thunderbird&amp;sid=true&amp;isc=true&amp;orderBy=undefined">view all parts here!</a></p>urn:store:1:blog:post:131https://www.originalair.com/the-a6-ac-compressor-the-heartbeat-of-classic-cars-revealedThe A6 AC Compressor: The Heartbeat of Classic Cars Revealed!<p>The A6 AC compressor is more than just a cooling component in an automobile's air conditioning system. Its history, wide usage, and proven efficiency make it a stalwart in automotive engineering. From its introduction to its enduring legacy, this detailed exploration sheds light on the A6 AC compressor's profound impact on the automotive industry.</p> <h2>Historical Insight into the A6 AC Compressor</h2> <p>The dawn of automotive air conditioning saw the rise of the A6 AC compressor. As a pivotal advancement in car manufacturing, the A6 became synonymous with reliable and top-tier cooling.</p> <h3>Design and Structural Nuances</h3> <p>1. Size and Build: Renowned for its sturdy design, the A6 compressor was constructed with longevity in mind. Its resistance to wear and tear made it an industry favorite.</p> <p>2. Piston Mechanics: The A6 employs a swashplate piston mechanism. This design ensures not just effective cooling but also smooth and seamless operations.</p> <p>3. Universal Appeal: Its flexible design made the A6 suitable for various vehicles, from compact models to more massive SUVs and trucks.</p> <h3><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/images/uploaded/blog/buick-skylark-a6-compressor.jpg" alt="Buick Skylark A6 Compressor" width="600" /></h3> <h3>Popular Makes and Models Sporting the A6 AC Compressor</h3> <p>Over the years, several vehicle models have adopted the A6 compressor due to its efficiency:</p> <ul> <li> <p>Chevrolet Impala: Many models from the 1970s and 1980s came equipped with the A6 compressor.</p> </li> <li> <p>Buick Skylark: This classic car from the 1970s is another proud user of the A6.</p> </li> <li> <p>Cadillac Fleetwood: Luxury meets performance with the A6 in many of Fleetwood's 1980s models.</p> </li> <li> <p>GMC trucks: Several trucks from the 1980s and 1990s era trusted the A6 for their cooling needs.</p> </li> </ul> <h3>Common Issues with the A6 AC Compressor</h3> <p>While the A6 is known for its durability, like all machines, it's not without its issues:</p> <ul> <li> <p>Wear and Tear: Given its age, the internal components might wear out, causing reduced cooling efficiency.</p> </li> <li> <p>Leakage: O-rings and seals can degrade over time, leading to refrigerant leaks.</p> </li> <li> <p>Noise Levels: Over prolonged use, the A6 might produce increased operational noise due to internal wear.</p> </li> </ul> <h3><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/images/uploaded/blog/0020386_a6-gm-5-single-groove-compressor.jpeg" alt="A6 AC Compressor Restoration" width="600" /></h3> <h3>Reasons to Restore the A6 AC Compressor</h3> <ol> <li> <p>Historical Authenticity: Restoring an A6 preserves the originality of classic cars, ensuring they remain true to their era.</p> </li> <li> <p>Updated Shaft seal: Although the A6 compressor was a very well-made compressor it does have it flaws. The most common problem is its mechanical shaft seal. This seal requires the compressor be ran frequently to avoid drying up and causing refrigerant and oil to seep out and sling through out the engine bay. All Original Air rebuilds have a double lip seal to avoid any oil slinging.</p> </li> <li> <p>Durable Construction: Modern compressors might be efficient, but the A6's rugged construction ensures longevity.</p> </li> <li> <p>Cost-effective: Instead of opting for a complete overhaul, restoring the A6 can be a more affordable solution.</p> </li> <li> <p>Nostalgic Value: For many classic car aficionados, the A6 isn’t just a part; it's a piece of history, making its restoration a trip down memory lane.</p> </li> </ol> <p>The A6 AC compressor, with its rich history and unmatched performance, holds a special place in the automotive world. Its presence in iconic vehicles and its resilience through the decades make it a remarkable piece of engineering. For those who value timeless performance and wish to retain the authentic charm of their classic vehicles, the A6 AC compressor remains an irreplaceable choice.</p>urn:store:1:blog:post:129https://www.originalair.com/the-fox-body-mustangs-unwavering-allureThe FOX Body Mustang's Unwavering Allure<p>The FOX Body Mustang is more than just a car. For many enthusiasts, it's a symbol of a glorious era in automotive history. Introduced in the late 1970s and produced till the early 1990s, this iconic vehicle played a pivotal role in reviving the Mustang brand and establishing its dominance in the automobile world. Let's dive deep into the intricacies of this automotive marvel.</p> <h3 style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/blog/1979-Ford-Mustang.jpg" alt="" width="600" /></h3> <h3 style="text-align: left;">History and Evolution of the FOX Body Mustang</h3> <p>The late 1970s marked a period of transition for the automotive industry. Amid rising fuel prices and strict emission norms, there was a pressing need for lightweight, fuel-efficient cars. Enter the FOX platform. Ford introduced this architecture in 1978, originally for the Ford Fairmont and Mercury Zephyr. However, its potential was soon recognized, and in 1979, the Mustang was redesigned onto this platform, leading to the birth of the FOX Body Mustang.</p> <p>Throughout its run till 1993, Ford made several enhancements to the FOX Body Mustang. Different trims, from the basic LX to the high-performance GT and Cobra, catered to a variety of consumers. What remained consistent was its design philosophy - a lightweight chassis, robust powertrain, and an unmistakable aesthetic.</p> <h3>Design and Features that Set it Apart</h3> <p>The FOX Body Mustang was a departure from its predecessors in terms of design. It boasted a sleeker, more aerodynamic profile that was in stark contrast to the bulkier designs of the 1970s. Its rectangular headlights, sharp lines, and compact frame became instantly recognizable features.</p> <p>Inside, the car came with a variety of options depending on the model. From basic vinyl seats in the LX to plush leather in the GT, there was something for every Mustang aficionado. Modern amenities of the time, such as air conditioning, power windows, and an AM/FM stereo, were also available, making the FOX Body Mustang a comfortable and enjoyable ride.</p> <h3><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/images/uploaded/blog/fox-body-mustang.jpg" alt="" width="600" /></h3> <h3>Performance and Engineering Prowess</h3> <p>What truly set the FOX Body Mustang apart was its performance. The platform's lightweight construction meant that even with a smaller engine, the Mustang could achieve remarkable speed and agility. Over the years, it was equipped with a variety of engines, from the fuel-efficient 2.3L four-cylinder to the powerful 5.0L V8, which became synonymous with the FOX Body era.</p> <p>The suspension and braking systems were constantly refined over the years. Ford introduced features like four-wheel disc brakes and a refined MacPherson strut suspension system, ensuring that the Mustang was not only fast but also safe and reliable. Hence it was chosen as a platform by state troopers in Florida, Texas, Alabama, Georgia &amp; North Carolina. You didn't want to end up getting chased down by 5.0!</p> <h3><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/images/uploaded/blog/fl-state-trooper-mustang.jpg" alt="" width="600" /></h3> <h3>Legacy and Influence in Modern Times</h3> <p>Even decades after the last FOX Body Mustang rolled off the production line, its impact is evident in today's automotive landscape. Its design and engineering principles influenced future generations of Mustangs and other cars in the Ford lineup.</p> <p>The FOX Body Mustang also gave birth to a passionate community of enthusiasts. Car shows, forums, and clubs dedicated to this particular model have sprouted worldwide, and its aftermarket support is immense. Today, restored and modified FOX Body Mustangs fetch a premium in the collector's market, a testament to its enduring appeal. Even Vanilla Ice kept his Mustang from the 90s music video "Ice Ice Baby" and had it restored.</p> <p>In the annals of automotive history, few cars hold a candle to the FOX Body Mustang in terms of influence and adoration. It was a car that arrived at the right moment, combining style, performance, and affordability. While newer models have since taken the limelight, the allure of the FOX Body remains undiminished, making it an unforgettable chapter in the Mustang saga.</p> <p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/images/uploaded/blog/vanilla-ice-ford-mustang.jpg" alt="" width="600" /></p>urn:store:1:blog:post:128https://www.originalair.com/importance-of-using-the-proper-o-rings-in-an-automotive-ac-systemImportance of Using the Proper O-Rings in an Automotive AC System<p>Automotive air conditioning (AC) systems play a pivotal role in ensuring our comfort during harsh weather conditions. One integral component, often overlooked in the maintenance and operation of these systems, is the o-ring. The selection and utilization of the correct o-rings can dramatically affect the efficiency, safety, and longevity of the AC system. Let's delve into the crucial aspects and benefits of using the right o-rings in an automotive AC system.</p> <p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/images/uploaded/blog/automotive-AC-O-rings.jpg" alt="" width="600" /></p> <h2>The Role of O-Rings in an AC System</h2> <p>At its core, a classic car AC system operates by circulating refrigerant through various components, facilitated by the compressor. As this refrigerant travels, it undergoes phase changes, ensuring the system cools the air efficiently. During this process, o-rings serve as seals between the different parts, preventing refrigerant leaks and ensuring optimal pressure is maintained.</p> <h3>Types of O-Rings Suitable for AC Systems</h3> <p>There are myriad o-rings available in the market, but not all are apt for automotive AC systems. You'll find that getting o-rings from the local automotive or hardware outlet are made of nylon or rubber, and will break down with time due to the chemical composition of AC refrigerant. The specific demands of these systems, particularly in terms of temperature and pressure fluctuations, necessitate the use of:</p> <ol> <li> <p>Nitrile O-Rings: Recognized for their excellent resistance to petroleum-based oils and fuels, nitrile o-rings are commonly employed in AC systems.</p> </li> <li> <p>Fluorocarbon O-Rings: Noted for their resilience against high temperatures and chemicals, these o-rings are perfect for high-performance requirements.</p> </li> </ol> <h3>Advantages of Using the Proper O-Rings</h3> <ol> <li> <p>Extended Lifespan of the AC System: Proper sealing ensures minimal wear and tear, extending the life of the entire AC system.</p> </li> <li> <p>Enhanced Performance: With the right seal, the AC system can operate at peak efficiency, ensuring a more comfortable ride.</p> </li> <li> <p>Cost Savings: Over time, ensuring no refrigerant leakage can lead to significant cost savings, both in terms of repairs and refrigerant replacement.</p> </li> <li> <p>Environmentally Friendly: Using the right o-rings can prevent refrigerant leaks, which, if left unchecked, can harm the environment.</p> </li> </ol> <h3>Potential Issues from Using Incorrect O-Rings</h3> <p>The ramifications of using inappropriate o-rings in an automotive AC system can be severe:</p> <ol> <li> <p>Reduced Efficiency: Even minor leaks can drastically reduce the cooling efficiency of the AC system, leading to discomfort.</p> </li> <li> <p>Increased Maintenance Costs: Constantly repairing and replenishing leaked refrigerants can burn a hole in one's pocket.</p> </li> <li> <p>Environmental Concerns: Some refrigerants have the potential to harm the ozone layer if released into the atmosphere.</p> </li> </ol> <h3>How to Choose the Right O-Ring for Your AC System</h3> <p>While the specifics of each vehicle might vary, the principles for choosing the right o-ring remain consistent:</p> <ol> <li> <p>Consider the Material Compatibility: Always ensure that the o-ring material is compatible with the refrigerant used in your AC system.</p> </li> <li> <p>Account for Temperature and Pressure Ranges: Depending on your location and vehicle type, the temperature and pressure demands can differ. Ensure your chosen o-ring can withstand these conditions.</p> </li> <li> <p>Regular Maintenance and Checks: Periodic checks can help in detecting worn-out o-rings before they lead to bigger problems.</p> </li> </ol> <p>The importance of selecting the proper o-rings for an automotive AC system cannot be understated. These small components play a massive role in ensuring the smooth operation, longevity, and efficiency of the entire system. By making informed decisions regarding o-ring selection and ensuring regular maintenance, we can not only save money but also contribute positively to the environment. If you are not sure and in need of specific OEM recommended o-rings, contact us at Original Air and we'll help you obtain the perfect fit o-rings made with the correct materials.</p>urn:store:1:blog:post:127https://www.originalair.com/car-ac-101-understanding-the-role-of-refrigerant-in-your-vehicles-cooling-systemCar AC 101: Understanding the Role of Refrigerant in Your Vehicle's Cooling System<p>A well-functioning car air conditioning system is a lifesaver during those scorching summer days, but have you ever wondered how this cooling miracle occurs? Original Air takes you on a journey, providing a detailed analysis of how the air conditioning system works, with a specific focus on the essential role of refrigerant in your vehicle's cooling system.</p> <h2><strong>Car AC 101: Understanding the Role of Refrigerant in Your Vehicle's Cooling System</strong></h2> <p>At the core of any vehicle's air conditioning system lies a special substance known as the refrigerant. This chemical compound plays the indispensable role of absorbing heat from the vehicle's cabin and expelling it outside, thus keeping the interior cool and comfortable.</p> <p>Understanding the air conditioning system in your vehicle requires a look into its internal mechanics. The system comprises various components, including the compressor, condenser, expansion valve, and evaporator, with refrigerant being the fluid that flows through these parts. Each component plays a crucial role in the cooling process.</p> <p><strong>The Role of the Compressor</strong> - The compressor, often referred to as the heart of the air conditioning system, is responsible for pumping refrigerant through the system. It compresses the refrigerant, raising its pressure and temperature, and pushes it towards the condenser.</p> <p><strong>The Condenser's Function</strong> - The condenser's function is akin to a radiator, and it's usually located near the front grill of your vehicle, allowing it to cool off with the incoming air. As the hot refrigerant from the compressor enters the condenser, it releases its heat to the cooler ambient air, condensing into a high-pressure liquid.</p> <p><strong>The Role of the Expansion Valve</strong> - Next in line is the expansion valve, which acts as a restrictor, rapidly decreasing the pressure on the refrigerant, causing it to cool significantly. It's at this stage that the refrigerant turns into a low-pressure, cold liquid-vapor mix.</p> <p><strong>The Evaporator and its Significance</strong> - The cold refrigerant then proceeds to the evaporator, located inside the cabin. As the cabin air blows over the evaporator's cold surface, the refrigerant absorbs the heat, cooling the air. The refrigerant then goes back to the compressor, and the cycle repeats.</p> <h2 style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/blog/1980 Z28_2.jpg" alt="" width="600" /></h2> <h2 style="text-align: left;">Different Types of Refrigerants and Their Evolution</h2> <p>There are various types of refrigerants, and their use has evolved over the years due to environmental concerns and technological advancements.</p> <p><strong>R-12 Refrigerant</strong><br />R-12, commonly known as Freon, was the first mainstream refrigerant. However, it was discovered that R-12 was harmful to the ozone layer, leading to its phase-out in the 1990s.</p> <p><strong>R-134a Refrigerant</strong><br />R-134a replaced R-12 and is still widely used today. It is much safer for the environment, but it's not as efficient as R-12, leading to the search for more efficient refrigerants.</p> <p><strong>R-1234yf Refrigerant</strong><br />R-1234yf is the latest refrigerant on the market. It offers superior cooling capabilities and has a much lower environmental impact than its predecessors. However, it's more expensive, causing some manufacturers to hesitate in adopting it.</p> <h3>The Importance of Proper Refrigerant Levels</h3> <p>Having the correct amount of refrigerant is essential for your car AC's optimal performance. If the levels are too low, the AC system will not cool effectively. On the other hand, an overcharged system can lead to component damage.</p> <h3>Checking and Recharging the Refrigerant</h3> <p>If your AC isn't cooling as effectively as it should, the refrigerant might be low. Most auto parts stores sell recharging kits that can replenish the refrigerant. However, if you're unfamiliar with the process, it's best to consult a professional.</p> <h3>The Environmental Impact of Refrigerants</h3> <p>While refrigerants make our rides comfortable, they can have significant environmental impacts if not properly managed. Leaks can release these substances into the atmosphere, contributing to global warming. Therefore, ensuring your AC system is leak-free is not only important for your comfort but also for the environment.</p> <h2>FAQs</h2> <p>What role does refrigerant play in a car's AC system?</p> <p>The refrigerant in a car's AC system absorbs heat from the cabin and expels it outside, thus cooling the interior of the vehicle.</p> <p>What are the key components of a car's AC system?</p> <p>The key components of a car's AC system are the compressor, condenser, expansion valve, evaporator, and refrigerant. At Original Air, we keep these components in stock for classic cars from the 60s to early 90s.</p> <p>What are the different types of refrigerants?</p> <p>There are several types of refrigerants, including R-12 (Freon), R-134a, and R-1234yf, with each having its advantages and disadvantages.</p> <p>How often should the refrigerant be checked or replaced?</p> <p>While there isn't a fixed schedule for checking or replacing the refrigerant, it's recommended to do so whenever you feel your AC isn't cooling effectively.</p> <p>How does refrigerant impact the environment?</p> <p>Refrigerants can contribute to global warming if they leak into the atmosphere. Therefore, maintaining a leak-free AC system is crucial for environmental preservation.</p> <p>Can I recharge the refrigerant myself?</p> <p>Yes, you can recharge the refrigerant yourself using a recharging kit. However, if you're not comfortable doing so, it's recommended to consult a professional.</p> <p>Understanding the role of refrigerant in your car's AC system is key to ensuring a comfortable ride, particularly during hot weather. Proper maintenance of the refrigerant level not only ensures optimal performance but also minimizes environmental impact. When in doubt, giving Original Air a call can prevent potential damage and ensure your vehicle's AC system stays in top condition.</p>urn:store:1:blog:post:126https://www.originalair.com/rental-beasts-the-thrilling-journey-of-hertzs-special-edition-carsRental Beasts: The Thrilling Journey of Hertz's Special Edition Cars<p>Carroll Shelby kick-started a thrilling partnership with Hertz in 1966, when he successfully persuaded the company to order 1,001 Ford Mustangs, finely tweaked by his garage. This laid the foundation for the iconic "Rent-A-Racer" program, which marked the birth of the Shelby G.T.350H. Almost instantaneously, these machines began leaving tire marks on race tracks and dragstrips alike, rapidly expanding the program's legend. After a 40-year hiatus, Hertz rekindled the project, rolling out yet another Shelby Mustang but with stricter terms in the rental agreement. Ever since, the Hertz special editions have been a constant presence in the car world, each model featuring unique tweaks and available in restricted quantities, with the most recent being the 2020 Hertz-Hendrick Motorsports Camaros. Buckle up as we give you a spin through the journey of these speed beasts, all of which donned the distinctive black and yellow livery, plus a special guest.</p> <h2>1966 Ford Shelby G.T. 350H</h2> <p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/images/uploaded/blog/Hertz-Mustang-1966.jpg" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p>This trailblazer, infamous for its high-performance in its time, was notorious for tales of renters striping it for parts. Powered by the K-code 289 V-8 engine that was finely tuned in Shelby's Venice, California shop to a roaring 306 horsepower, these rides were virtually identical to the standard G.T. 350 save for the rear side glass. Noteworthy is the elevated price tag, which has rocketed from a humble $17 daily rental fee to a six-figure sum, should you find one of the original 1,001 units.</p> <h2>1985 Ford Mustang SVO</h2> <p>Though not originally a Hertz special, the SVO, an exclusive Mustang edition with a turbocharged four-cylinder, made it to Hertz's "Rent-A-Racer" program in 1985. Interestingly, all 60 copies bought by the rental company had manual transmission, a feature rarely seen in the other cars in this list. The distinct Dark Sage green paint, commissioned by Hertz, adorned ten of these vehicles, making them stand out among the 47 cars that featured this color.</p> <h2>2006 40th Anniversary Ford Shelby GT-H</h2> <p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/images/uploaded/blog/2006-Hertz-Mustang-Shelby.jpg" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p>The flame between Carroll Shelby and Ford was reignited in 2003, leading to the launch of a new Mustang in 2005. A year later, the Shelby name graced the Ford showrooms again, right on time for the 40th anniversary. Sporting parts from the Ford Performance catalog, the GT-H, both standard and rental versions, came with enhancements like a cold air intake, engine tune, and more. A total of 496 GT-H units were built, with only Carroll Shelby and Hertz executives privileged enough to get one with a manual transmission.</p> <h2>2007 Shelby GT-H Convertible</h2> <p>As expected, the GT-H Convertible followed the coupe, sporting similar upgrades and also limited to 500 copies. The initial 2006 prototype model was auctioned in 2012 for a hefty $115,500.</p> <h2>2008 Chevrolet Corvette ZHZ</h2> <p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/images/uploaded/blog/2008 ZHZ Corvette.jpg" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p>In 2008, General Motors jumped on the Hertz special bandwagon with the Corvette ZHZ. This model was a part of Hertz's "Fun Club" line of sporty rentals and started with an initial run of 500. The ZHZ boasted an identical 436 horsepower from the LS3 V-8, just like the stock Corvette, but carried special Hertz touches inside and out.</p> <h2>2009 Chevrolet Corvette ZHZ Convertible</h2> <p>The pattern of following a coupe with a convertible continues here as well, with a limited 375 units run, making it one of the most exclusive Corvettes ever made.</p> <h2>2014 Hertz Penske GT</h2> <p>In this iteration, Hertz collaborated with Penske Racing, resulting in the birth of the Hertz Penske GT. The upgraded parts largely came from the Ford Performance catalog, including a new exhaust, air intake, ECU tuning, and more. This special edition maintained the tradition of offering automatic transmission to the rental fleet, with just 10 manual versions going to executives and VIPs.</p> <h2>2016 Ford Shelby Mustang GT-H</h2> <p>To commemorate the 50th anniversary of the original "Rent-A-Racer", Hertz and Ford collaborated once more to release another 140 GT-H units. This beast was based on the stock Mustang GT and featured a Ford Performance exhaust along with the Ford Racing Handling Pack.</p> <h2>2018 Hertz 100th Anniversary Edition Chevrolet Corvette Z06</h2> <p>Hertz celebrated its centennial with this special edition. The Z06 was mostly a stock model, but with an impressive 650 horsepower and 650 pound-feet of torque paired to an automatic transmission. Only 100 units were manufactured, making this 2018 model rarer than the Corvette 65th-anniversary Carbon 65 Edition cars.</p> <h2>2020 Hertz-Hendrick Motorsports Chevrolet Camaro ZL1 and SS</h2> <p>Hertz's association with Hendrick Motorsports led to the creation of this pair of Camaros. The Camaro SS features a cold air intake and an exhaust, increasing the output to 480 hp. Meanwhile, the ZL1, limited to just 24 units, came with a bigger supercharger on the LT4 V-8, delivering an impressive 750 hp and an 11.0-second quarter-mile time.</p> <h2>2022 Ford Shelby Mustang GT-H</h2> <p>The latest addition to the line of Hertz special edition cars is the 2022 Shelby Mustang GT-H, which stands out with its unique styling upgrades that honor a rich performance heritage. The Shelby GT-H, available as fastbacks and convertibles, comes in four exterior paint colors: rapid red metallic, oxford white, carbonized gray, and shadow black. All models sport gold “Le Mans” dual racing stripes and special rocker stripes, along with Hertz Edition and Shelby 60th anniversary emblems for a distinctive look.</p> <p>The interiors are adorned with Shelby and Hertz logos on the seats, sill plates, and floor mats, while a numbered badge is located on the dashboard and under the hood. Performance-wise, the Shelby GT-H features a Borla cat-back performance exhaust for the 5.0L V8 engine and a staggered wheel kit for both convertibles and fastbacks. The GT-H rides on 20-inch aluminum wheels with all-weather Michelin tires and sports a unique Shelby-designed deep-draw hood, upper grille, fascia winglets, and taillight panel.</p> <p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/images/uploaded/blog/2022-Shelby-Mustang.jpg" alt="" width="600" /></p>urn:store:1:blog:post:125https://www.originalair.com/all-about-classic-chevy-trucks-and-utility-vehicles-from-the-60s-to-the-early-90sRolling Through Time: All about Classic Chevy Trucks and Utility Vehicles from the 60s to the Early 90s<p><span data-preserver-spaces="true">Hey there, gearheads! Buckle up, as we're about to take a wild ride back in time. Our destination? The golden era of automotive craftsmanship — when classic Chevy trucks and utility vehicles were the kings of the road. These were the days when American craftsmanship was the name of the game, and Chevrolet trucks were leading the pack.</span></p> <p><span data-preserver-spaces="true">From the stylish contours of the 60s Chevy truck models to the rugged robustness of the early 90s, it's time to shine the headlights on these bygone beauties. Let's kick the tires and start the engines on our journey through this pivotal period in Chevrolet's history.</span></p> <p> </p> <h2>Revisiting the Past: Chevy's Game-changing 60s Lineup</h2> <p><span data-preserver-spaces="true">The 60s was a significant decade for Chevy trucks, with the launch of models that demonstrated a combination of style, performance, and utility. The trucks produced during this period were more than just workhorses. They were a symbol of the bold, adventurous spirit of the era.</span></p> <h3><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/images/uploaded/blog/chevy-apache.jpg" alt="classic-chevy-truck-ac" width="720" height="480" /></h3> <p> </p> <h3>The Chevy Apache – The Dawn of a New Era</h3> <p>In 1958, Chevrolet called all light-duty trucks the Apache. But in 1960, Chevrolet released a full-size pickup truck that began the revolutionary C/K series. Available in both half-ton and three-quarter-ton models, the Apache was known for its rugged durability and reliability. Notably, the Apache introduced an independent front suspension system – a first for Chevy pickup trucks, which vastly improved ride quality.</p> <h3>The 1963 Chevy C10 Stepside – Blending Utility and Style</h3> <p><span data-preserver-spaces="true">The 1963 C10 Stepside stood out with its distinctive flared rear fenders and a "step" built into the sides for easy access to the truck bed. Powered by either a 3.8L inline-six or a 4.6L V8, this model balanced power with efficiency. The C10 Stepside's combination of functionality and unique style helped make it a standout model in the 60s Chevy lineup.</span></p> <h3>The 1967 Chevy C10 Fleetside – Pioneering Comfort in Trucks</h3> <p><span data-preserver-spaces="true">By 1967, Chevy was focusing not just on performance and utility but also on driver comfort. The '67 C10 Fleetside came with an upgraded, more comfortable interior featuring improved seats and ventilation. Externally, this model showcased a sleeker, more streamlined design, with the truck bed width now matching that of the cab.</span></p> <p> </p> <h2>The 1970s: Tough Meets Versatility</h2> <p><span data-preserver-spaces="true">Chevy recognized the demand for rugged, dependable trucks that could handle anything thrown their way, and boy, did they deliver! The 70s was an era of innovation for Chevy trucks, and the focus shifted from style to sheer versatility. The company introduced several iconic models during this time, focusing on providing consumers with the durability and utility they demanded from their vehicles.</span></p> <p><span data-preserver-spaces="true">The 1955 Chevy 3100 Series was the first pickup truck to offer factory installed air conditioning as an option. However, it wasn't until the 1970s that air conditioning became a standard feature in Chevrolet trucks, following suit with other auto manufacturers at the time. This upgrade significantly improved the driving experience, especially in hot climates, marking another step in the evolution of trucks from purely utility vehicles to comfortable daily drivers.</span></p> <h3><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/images/uploaded/blog/chevy-c10.jpg" alt="Chevy C10 Air Conditioning" width="720" height="480" /></h3> <p> </p> <h3>The 1970 C10 Pickup – An All-Around Performer</h3> <p><span data-preserver-spaces="true">The 1970 C10 Pickup is a gem from the early 70s. This half-ton truck was available in both 2WD (C10) and 4WD (K10) versions, and it was powered by a range of engine options, from a 250ci inline-six to a beefy 396ci V8. It featured a "Coil Spring" rear suspension, a rarity among pickup trucks at the time, which significantly improved the ride quality. Its independent front suspension and unibody construction made it a solid performer both on and off the road.</span></p> <h3>The 1973 C/K Series – The New Gold Standard</h3> <p><span data-preserver-spaces="true">The '73 C/K Series set the new standard for toughness and reliability. With options for both two-wheel and four-wheel drive, this beast could handle whatever Mother Nature dished out.</span></p> <h3>The 1975 Chevy LUV – Compact but Mighty</h3> <p><span data-preserver-spaces="true">In the mid-70s, Chevy decided to throw its hat into the burgeoning compact pickup market. The result was the Chevy LUV (Light Utility Vehicle), a small, fuel-efficient truck perfect for urban commuters and light-duty work. It was powered by a 1.8L Isuzu four-cylinder engine, providing a fine balance of power and fuel efficiency. Though small in stature, the LUV was big on reliability, quickly gaining a loyal fanbase.</span></p> <h3>The 1977 Big 10 – Chevy's Gentle Giant</h3> <p><span data-preserver-spaces="true">Towards the end of the 70s, Chevy introduced the Big 10, a truck that could handle heavy payloads without breaking a sweat. Known as the "Heavy Half," the Big 10 came with upgraded suspension, power brakes, and the option for a 350ci or 454ci V8 engine. This truck was a hardworking beast, built to take on heavy-duty tasks while offering a smooth and comfortable ride. It quickly carved out a niche for itself in the truck market.</span></p> <p> </p> <h2>Delving Deeper: Chevy's Groundbreaking 80s Lineup</h2> <p><span data-preserver-spaces="true">The 80s was a decade that saw Chevy trucks moving beyond the pure workhorse role and offering a more balanced blend of utility and comfort.</span></p> <h3><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/images/uploaded/blog/chevy-s-10.jpg" alt="Classic Chevy S10" width="600" height="353" /></h3> <p> </p> <h3>The 1982 Chevy S-10 – A New Chapter in Compact Trucks</h3> <p><span data-preserver-spaces="true">Replacing the LUV was the S-10, Chevy's first domestically produced compact pickup truck. Available in both short and long bed versions, the S-10 was powered by a range of engines, from a 1.9L Isuzu four-cylinder to a 2.8L V6. The S-10 marked a significant step forward in the compact truck segment, offering a balanced blend of utility, comfort, and performance.</span></p> <h3>The 1988 Chevy Silverado – A Legacy Begins</h3> <p><span data-preserver-spaces="true">While the Silverado name was used as a trim level on earlier models, it wasn't until 1988 that Chevy introduced the standalone Silverado model. This full-size pickup featured an extended cab option, fuel injection, and independent front suspension. Available with a choice of V6 and V8 engines, the Silverado was lauded for its comfortable ride, reliable performance, and handsome design. The 1988 Silverado started a legacy that continues to this day, making it a standout model in the 80s Chevy lineup.</span></p> <p><span data-preserver-spaces="true">The 80s was a period of transition for Chevrolet, marked by the introduction of models that could cater to a wider range of needs. From compact pickups to full-size behemoths, Chevy's 80s lineup demonstrated a dedication to innovation, versatility, and customer satisfaction. This commitment to quality and improvement continues to define Chevy's philosophy, contributing to its ongoing success in the truck market.</span></p> <p> </p> <h2>The 90s Uncovered: Chevy's Trucks of Tomorrow</h2> <p><span data-preserver-spaces="true">The 90s was a pivotal decade for Chevy trucks, with the company placing a strong emphasis on modernization and improved user experience.</span></p> <h3><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/images/uploaded/blog/chevy-truck-454-ss.jpg" alt="Chevy SS 454" width="600" /></h3> <p> </p> <h3>The 1990 Chevy 454 SS – Power in a Sporty Package</h3> <p><span data-preserver-spaces="true">The 90s began with a bang with the introduction of the Chevy 454 SS, a high-performance variant of the standard 1500 pickup. This sporty truck, only available in Onyx Black, packed a punch with its 7.4L V8 engine, producing 230 horsepower and a whopping 385 lb-ft of torque. With its impressive power, sporty aesthetics, and upgraded suspension for improved handling, the 454 SS was a standout performer in Chevy's early 90s lineup.</span></p> <h3>The 1994 Chevy S-10 – Evolving the Compact Pickup</h3> <p><span data-preserver-spaces="true">In 1994, the S-10 received a significant overhaul, with more rounded lines and updated features, marking a shift towards a more modern, aerodynamic look. It was available with a variety of engines, including an efficient 2.2L four-cylinder and a robust 4.3L V6. The S-10 continued to be a popular choice for consumers looking for a balance of utility, economy, and comfort in a compact pickup.</span></p> <h3>The 1999 Chevy Silverado – A New Millennium on the Horizon</h3> <p><span data-preserver-spaces="true">Chevy ended the decade with the release of the redesigned Silverado, a model that continues to be a cornerstone of Chevy's lineup to this day. This new Silverado boasted a more aerodynamic design, improved powertrains, and a range of trims to suit varying customer needs. With the introduction of the LS trim, buyers could enjoy luxury touches like power windows, keyless entry, and chrome exterior details. The Silverado of 1999 represented the future of Chevy trucks – modern, comfortable, and more powerful than ever.</span></p> <p><span data-preserver-spaces="true">The 90s saw Chevy successfully navigating a rapidly changing automotive landscape. The brand managed to maintain its commitment to reliability and utility while embracing new design cues and technology. This balance between tradition and innovation resulted in some of the most beloved and iconic Chevy trucks, many of which continue to be popular among enthusiasts and collectors today.</span></p> <p> </p> <h2>Not Just Trucks: Chevrolet's Utility Vehicles</h2> <p><span data-preserver-spaces="true">Chevy's legacy wasn't just built on trucks. Their utility vehicles also played a crucial role in shaping the brand's reputation for innovation and reliability. Follow Original Air and get notified when we post an expanded article about these topics:</span></p> <h3>The 60s and 70s: The Chevy Suburban and Blazer</h3> <p><span data-preserver-spaces="true">The Chevy Suburban and Blazer were more than just utility vehicles. They were pioneers, laying the groundwork for the SUVs we know today.</span></p> <h3>The 80s and Early 90s: The Arrival of the Chevy S-10 Blaze</h3> <p><span data-preserver-spaces="true">The S-10 Blazer arrived in the 80s, taking the utility vehicle game up a notch. With improved off-road capabilities and the comforts of a passenger car, it was the perfect blend of utility and comfort.</span></p> <p> </p> <h2>FAQs</h2> <ul style="list-style-type: undefined;"> <li><strong>What made classic Chevy trucks so popular?<br /></strong><span data-preserver-spaces="true">Chevy trucks were popular because of their unique blend of durability, performance, and style. They were versatile machines, equally adept at handling heavy loads and cruising the open road.</span></li> <li><strong>Why are classic Chevy trucks collectible?<br /></strong><span data-preserver-spaces="true">Their enduring appeal lies in their timeless design, solid build quality, and historical significance. Collectors also appreciate the relatively straightforward maintenance and availability of parts.</span></li> <li><strong>What's special about Chevy utility vehicles from the 60s to the early 90s?<br /></strong><span data-preserver-spaces="true">These vehicles paved the way for modern SUVs. Models like the Chevy Suburban and Blazer were known for their off-road capabilities, roomy interiors, and robust performance.</span></li> <li><strong>Which classic Chevy truck is the most sought after?<br /></strong><span data-preserver-spaces="true">While it depends on personal preference, the 1960 Apache and the 1973 C/K Series are particularly popular due to their unique style and rugged durability.</span></li> <li><strong>What makes the 1993 C/K Series a turning point for Chevy?<br /></strong><span data-preserver-spaces="true">The 1993 C/K Series represented a major step towards modernity with its aerodynamic design and a host of upgraded features. It was a clear indication of the direction Chevy was heading in the future.</span></li> <li><strong>Are parts for these classic Chevy trucks readily available?<br /></strong><span data-preserver-spaces="true">Yes, parts for these trucks are still widely available, making them a popular choice for restoration projects.</span></li> </ul> <p> </p> <h2><strong>The End of the Road, or Just the Beginning?</strong></h2> <p><span data-preserver-spaces="true">Well, folks, we've reached the end of our nostalgic journey through the world of classic Chevy trucks and utility vehicles. We've seen how Chevy not only captured the spirit of the times but also set the tone for the future.</span></p> <p><span data-preserver-spaces="true">The enduring popularity of these classic models is a testament to Chevy's dedication to innovation, reliability, and style. It's clear that these timeless classics will continue to inspire and captivate automotive enthusiasts for generations to come. After all, the road may have twists and turns, but the classics never go out of style.</span></p> <p><span data-preserver-spaces="true">Do you have a favorite Chevy truck? If you are lucky to own one, we at Original Air can help with all of your AC needs and please send us some pics to share with everyone!</span></p>urn:store:1:blog:post:124https://www.originalair.com/is-your-car-ac-acting-up-discover-the-8-warning-signs-that-its-failingIs Your Car AC Acting Up? Discover the 7 Warning Signs That It's Failing!<h2><strong>Several signs can indicate a failing automotive air conditioning (AC) system</strong></h2> <p><span data-preserver-spaces="true">We've all been there — it's a hot day, and you desperately need your car's air conditioning to work. But alas, something is wrong. Your once trusty AC system is failing, and you're sweating in the driver's seat. But how can you tell if your AC system is on the fritz? We'll cover several signs indicating a failing automotive AC system and discuss how to diagnose and address these issues. So let's dive in!</span></p> <h2><strong>Common signs of a failing AC system</strong></h2> <p><strong>Weak airflow - </strong>If you notice a decrease in the airflow coming from your vents, it could be a sign that your AC system is struggling. A clogged cabin air filter may cause this, a failing blower motor, or a damaged air duct. If the airflow is weaker than usual, it's time to investigate and address the issue.</p> <p><strong>Unusual noises - </strong><span data-preserver-spaces="true">When your AC system starts making strange noises like clicking, rattling, or grinding, it could be a sign that something is wrong. These noises may indicate a problem with the compressor, the blower motor, or the fan. Please don't ignore these sounds, as they can lead to more significant issues down the road.</span></p> <p><strong>Foul smells - </strong>If you notice an unpleasant odor when you turn on your AC, it could be a sign of mold or mildew growth in the system. This can result from excess moisture in the evaporator coil or a clogged drain. Not only is this unpleasant for you and your passengers, but it can also pose health risks.</p> <p><strong>Inconsistent cooling - </strong>If your AC system cools your car inconsistently, it could be a sign of a problem. This might be due to a low refrigerant level, a malfunctioning thermostat, or a damaged compressor. Inconsistent cooling can lead to discomfort and frustration, so addressing the issue promptly is essential.</p> <p><strong>Leaking refrigerant - </strong>Refrigerant leaks can cause your AC system to lose its cooling efficiency. If you notice a pool of liquid under your car, it could be refrigerant leaking from the system. This can be caused by damaged hoses, seals, or connectors and should be fixed immediately.</p> <p><strong>Electrical issues - </strong>Flickering or unresponsive AC controls could indicate an electrical problem within the system. Wiring issues, a blown fuse, or a malfunctioning control module can all cause these problems. Identifying and fixing any electrical issues is crucial, as they can lead to further complications in your AC system.</p> <p><strong>Frozen evaporator coil - </strong>A frozen evaporator coil can prevent your AC system from cooling effectively. This can occur when there is insufficient airflow over the coil or when the refrigerant level is too low. If you notice frost or ice on your evaporator coil, it's time to address the problem.</p> <p><strong>Compressor problems - </strong>The compressor is the heart of your AC system, and if it's failing, your system won't be able to cool your car effectively. Symptoms of a failing compressor include poor cooling performance, unusual noises, and refrigerant leaks. If you suspect an AC compressor issue, it's essential to have a professional mechanic check it out.</p> <p><img src="/images/uploaded/blog/ac-evacuation.jpg" alt="" width="300" /></p> <h2><strong>How to diagnose a failing AC system<br /><br /></strong></h2> <h3> <strong>Visual inspection</strong></h3> <p><span data-preserver-spaces="true">The first step in diagnosing a failing AC system is to conduct a visual inspection. Check for any signs of damage or leaks in the hoses, seals, and connectors. Inspect the cabin air filter and ensure it's clean and functioning correctly.</span></p> <h3><strong>AC performance test</strong></h3> <p><span data-preserver-spaces="true">An AC performance test can help identify your system's cooling efficiency issues. By measuring the temperature of the air coming from the vents, you can determine if your AC system is working correctly or if a problem needs to be addressed.</span></p> <h3><strong>Pressure test</strong></h3> <p><span data-preserver-spaces="true">A pressure test can help identify issues with your AC system's refrigerant levels. If the pressure is too low, it could indicate a leak or a problem with the compressor. If the pressure is too high, it could point to a blockage or a malfunctioning expansion valve.</span></p> <h2><strong>What to do when your AC system fails<br /><br /></strong></h2> <h3> <strong>DIY fixes</strong></h3> <p><span data-preserver-spaces="true">Some common AC problems can be fixed with a bit of DIY know-how. For example, replacing a clogged cabin air filter or repairing a loose electrical connection can often resolve minor issues. However, it's essential to recognize when a problem is beyond your expertise and requires professional attention.</span></p> <h3><strong>Professional repairs</strong></h3> <p><span data-preserver-spaces="true">For more complex issues, such as ac compressor failure or refrigerant leaks, it's best to seek the help of a qualified mechanic. They will have the necessary tools and expertise to diagnose and repair your AC system effectively, ensuring it's running smoothly and keeping you cool on the road.</span></p> <h2><strong>Wrapping Up</strong></h2> <p><span data-preserver-spaces="true">A failing automotive air conditioning system can cause discomfort and frustration, but recognizing the signs of failure is the first step in addressing the issue. By being aware of symptoms like weak airflow, unusual noises, and inconsistent cooling, you can take immediate action to diagnose and repair any problems. Whether you tackle the issue yourself or seek professional automotive help, maintaining a well-functioning AC system is essential for your comfort and safety on the road. Contact our experts at Original Air and we'll help you get the parts you need to stay cool year round!</span></p>urn:store:1:blog:post:123https://www.originalair.com/classic-car-cooling-wars-clutch-fans-vs-electric-fans-which-reigns-supremeClassic Car Cooling Wars: Clutch Fans vs Electric Fans - Which Reigns Supreme?<p><span data-preserver-spaces="true"><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/images/uploaded/blog/ac-clutch-fan.jpg" alt="Clutch vs Electric Fans" width="600" /></span></p> <p><span data-preserver-spaces="true">Classic cars are a passion for many car enthusiasts. It's a pleasure to drive, care for, and keep a classic cruiser, muscle car or classic truck in top-notch condition. However, when it comes to the cooling system of a classic vehicle, it can be a challenging task to choose between keeping a clutch fan or upgrading to an electric fan. We will compare both the clutch and electric fan options and provide guidance on which is better for your classic ride.</span></p> <p><span data-preserver-spaces="true">First let's breakdown the two options:</span></p> <p><span data-preserver-spaces="true">Clutch Fan: A clutch fan is a mechanical device that is bolted directly to the engine's water pump. It is a component that uses a thermostatic spring to engage or disengage the fan blades from the pulley according to the engine's temperature. When the engine is cold, the fan blades disengage, and the fan doesn't turn, allowing the engine to warm up faster. Once the engine reaches a certain temperature, the thermostatic spring engages the fan blades, and the fan begins to turn, pulling air through the radiator and cooling the engine.</span></p> <p><span data-preserver-spaces="true">Advantages of the clutch fan setup:</span></p> <ul> <li><span data-preserver-spaces="true">It has a simple design and is relatively easy to install.</span></li> <li><span data-preserver-spaces="true">It doesn't require any electrical connections, making it easier to maintain and troubleshoot.</span></li> <li><span data-preserver-spaces="true">It is a cost-effective solution for cooling a classic car.</span></li> </ul> <p><span data-preserver-spaces="true">Disadvantages of the clutch fan:</span></p> <ul> <li><span data-preserver-spaces="true">It uses engine power to operate, which can result in a decrease in fuel efficiency.</span></li> <li><span data-preserver-spaces="true">It is more prone to failure than electric fans.</span></li> <li><span data-preserver-spaces="true">It can create excessive noise and vibration.</span></li> </ul> <p><span data-preserver-spaces="true">Electric Fan: An electric fan, on the other hand, is an electrically powered device that uses a motor to turn the fan blades. It is usually mounted in front of the radiator and controlled by a thermostat or a fan controller. It can have one large fan, or two individual fans with the choice to run in parallel or independently.</span></p> <p><span data-preserver-spaces="true">Advantages of an electric fan setup:</span></p> <ul> <li><span data-preserver-spaces="true">It provides consistent and reliable cooling.</span></li> <li><span data-preserver-spaces="true">It consumes less engine power, resulting in improved fuel efficiency.</span></li> <li><span data-preserver-spaces="true">It produces less noise and vibration.</span></li> <li><span data-preserver-spaces="true">It can be controlled by a thermostat or a fan controller, making it more efficient.</span></li> </ul> <p><span data-preserver-spaces="true">Disadvantages of the electric fan:</span></p> <ul> <li><span data-preserver-spaces="true">It requires electrical connections, which can be challenging to install.</span></li> <li><span data-preserver-spaces="true">It is more expensive than a clutch fan.</span></li> <li><span data-preserver-spaces="true">Does not have the factory OEM appearance.</span></li> </ul> <p>Upgrading from a clutch fan to an electric fan can help a vehicle's AC system run more efficiently in several ways.</p> <p>First, an electric fan is designed to work independently of the engine's RPM, which means that it can maintain a steady airflow through the radiator even at low engine speeds or when the vehicle is idling. This can help to reduce the temperature of the engine and the AC system, which in turn reduces the load on the AC compressor and improves its performance.</p> <p>Secondly, an electric fan consumes less power from the engine compared to a clutch fan, which means that there is more power available to run the AC system. This can lead to improved AC performance, especially when the vehicle is idling or driving at low speeds.</p> <p>Additionally, an electric fan can be controlled by a thermostat or a fan controller, which means that it can be adjusted to run only when it is needed. This helps to reduce unnecessary power consumption and improve the overall efficiency of the AC system.</p> <p>Lastly, an electric fan produces less noise and vibration compared to a clutch fan, which can improve the overall driving experience.</p> <p>Considering all the pros and cons, upgrading from a clutch fan to an electric fan can help to improve the efficiency of a vehicle's AC system by maintaining a steady airflow through the radiator, reducing power consumption, and improving overall performance. Here at Original Air, we recommend upgrading to an electric fan setup as current electric fans can move more air through the condenser leading to a significantly more efficient AC system than what was installed from the factory.</p> <p>Would you consider upgrading your setup from clutch fan to an electric fan?</p>urn:store:1:blog:post:122https://www.originalair.com/the-ford-torino-where-style-meets-speedThe Ford Torino: Where Style Meets Speed<p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/images/uploaded/blog/Ford-Torino-500.jpg" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p>The Ford Torino was a mid-size car produced by the Ford Motor Company from 1968 to 1976. The Torino was designed to compete with other popular mid-size cars, such as the Chevrolet Chevelle and the Plymouth Road Runner. Over the years, the Torino evolved and became a full-size car, but it remained a popular choice among consumers due to its stylish design, performance, and affordability.</p> <p>The Torino was offered in various body styles, including two-door and four-door hardtops, convertibles, and station wagons. The car was equipped with a range of engines, including inline-six and V8 options, providing consumers with a range of performance options. The Torino was also available in both manual and automatic transmission options.</p> <p>One of the standout features of the Ford Torino was its performance models. The GT and Cobra models were top-rated, offering consumers high-performance engines and sporty styling. In the late 1960s and early 1970s, the Torino was a popular choice for muscle car enthusiasts, and many aftermarket parts and performance modifications were available to enhance the car's performance.</p> <p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/images/uploaded/blog/Ford-Torino-Talladega.jpg" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p>The Ford Torino and the Ford Gran Torino are two different models produced by Ford during the 1970s. The Ford Torino was a mid-size car produced from 1968 to 1976, while the Ford Gran Torino was a luxury version of the Torino, available in two-door hardtop and four-door sedan body styles. The main difference between the two models is the level of luxury and features offered. The Ford Gran Torino was positioned as a more upscale and premium version of the Torino, offering higher-end amenities such as leather seats, power windows and locks, and a more sophisticated sound system. The Gran Torino also had a larger and more powerful engine lineup than the standard Torino.</p> <p>The Torino was also known for its distinctive styling, which included a sleek, aerodynamic body, bold grille, and sporty exterior accents. The interior of the Torino was designed with comfort and style in mind, and the car was equipped with a range of features, including power windows, air conditioning, and premium sound systems. Factory-installed air conditioning became an optional feature on the Ford Torino in 1968.</p> <p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/images/uploaded/blog/Ford-Torino-Engine.jpg" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p>Additionally, the Gran Torino had a distinctive exterior design, including a wider grille and more prominent luxurious chrome trim. The Gran Torino was aimed at affluent customers who wanted a stylish, high-performance car with a higher level of comfort and luxury.</p> <p>The Ford Torino was well-received by critics and consumers throughout its production. It was widely regarded as a stylish and affordable car with excellent price value. In recent years, it has gained a cult following and is now considered a classic car by many enthusiasts. The Torino's popularity peaked in the 1970s when the car was featured in several movies and television shows, further cementing its place in popular culture. Despite its discontinuation, the Ford Torino remains a popular choice among car enthusiasts and collectors, who appreciate its style, performance, and affordability.</p> <p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/images/uploaded/blog/Ford-Torino-Convertible.jpg" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p>Have you ever owned a classic Ford Torino? We carry all the AC parts to repair and restore your Ford Torino. <a href="https://www.originalair.com/search?adv=true&amp;cid=0&amp;mid=0&amp;vid=0&amp;q=torino&amp;sid=true&amp;isc=true&amp;orderBy=undefined">Click here to see parts in stock!</a></p>urn:store:1:blog:post:60https://www.originalair.com/october-reader-ride-kens-1969-mercury-cougar-eliminator-390-4Reader Ride: Ken's 1969 Mercury Cougar Eliminator 390 4<p>Ken shares with us his Mercury Cougar:</p> <p>"This car is a father and son project we've been working on for the past five years. It's something we both enjoy doing together. We pulled the motor and transmission and had them professionally rebuilt. We had an AC compressor repaired by Original Air so the car keeps its originality. The car can be driven anywhere and looks great at car shows."</p> <p style="text-align: left;">Original Air components are the compressor, expansion valve, and suction valve.</p> <p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/Content/Images/uploaded/ken-car-1-rev.png" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/Content/Images/uploaded/blog/ken car 2 rev.jpg" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/Content/Images/uploaded/blog/ken car 3 rev.jpg" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/Content/Images/uploaded/blog/ken car 4 rev.jpg" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p style="text-align: center;"> </p> <p style="text-align: left;">What do you think? Would you be up for restoring a classic Mercury Cougar? If so, <a href="https://www.originalair.com/search?adv=true&amp;cid=0&amp;mid=0&amp;vid=0&amp;q=cougar&amp;sid=true&amp;isc=true&amp;orderBy=undefined">here is a link to some of our kits.</a></p>urn:store:1:blog:post:58https://www.originalair.com/contaminant-the-dirty-word-of-automotive-acContaminant – The Dirty Word of Automotive A/C<p>One of the most common causes of failure and continued failure in your car’s air-conditioning system is an internal contaminant. Once an air-conditioning system is contaminated, it spreads throughout the air-conditioning system via the lubricant that is designed to protect the compressor, contaminating the lubricant and causing premature component failure.</p> <p style="text-align: left;">The contaminant can be a combination of old and/or new oil, grease, rust and corrosion that can accumulate in the a/c system, typically due to years of improper servicing. While there are many causes of contamination in an automotive a/c system, the most common source is neglecting to replace the filter-drier (or accumulator) each and every time the system is open to the atmosphere or properly flushing a system after a compressor failure.</p> <p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/Content/Images/uploaded/blog/bigstock-Auto-Mechanic-Worker-Fixing-Ai-291300214.jpg" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p><strong>WHAT HAPPENS IF I DON’T CHANGE MY FILTER-DRIER OR ACCUMULATOR?</strong></p> <p>The filter-drier has two main functions:</p> <p>The first is to remove moisture from the inside of the system. Desiccant within the filter-drier (or accumulator) is designed as a one-time moisture removal tool. The system must remain moisture-free, as moisture combined with refrigerant and lubricant will ultimately turn acidic and slowly start eating up the system from the inside. The result of this is a contaminant that blends in with oil and circulates through the system.</p> <p>Next, the second is to filter out larger contaminants. Like the desiccant bag, the filter is a one-time filter of larger debris within the air-conditioning system. In a properly maintained system, there is little to filter, but components wear over the years, and the filter helps to prevent debris from circulating throughout the system. Filters can ultimately become saturated and clogged with debris, causing a blockage and commonly, compressor failure.</p> <p><strong>WHAT HAPPENS IF I DON’T PROPERLY FLUSH THROUGH MY A/C SYSTEM?</strong></p> <p>Many people, mechanics included, assume that simply changing a failed component and the filter-drier is all that’s necessary to solve their problem. That could not be further from the truth.</p> <p>Installing a new filter-drier without cleaning out the rest of the system is like changing your car’s oil filter without changing the oil. Your car’s air-conditioning will be right back where it started, and your newly installed parts will also be contaminated, warranty voided. Dirty oil can still seep through the filter-drier and continue to circulate through the system, coating and recoating the internals of hoses, condensers, evaporators and valves. (Those of you that have worked on old plumbing can get a clear picture.) Next stop, clogged expansion valve and/or filter-drier, seized compressor, etc. Rinse and repeat.</p> <p><strong>HOW DO I KNOW IF MY CAR’S A/C IS CONTAMINATED?</strong></p> <p>If you’ve had a major compressor failure, such as a seized compressor, then you can rest assured that your system is contaminated. Another common assumption of a contaminated system can be made if a system has been consistently “topped off” due to a leak. Outside of that, the first step is to see if you can get anything out of any component that’s being replaced.</p> <p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/Content/Images/uploaded/blog/Screen Shot 2019-09-16 at 3.03.34 PM.png" alt="" height="600" /></p> <p>For example, if your compressor was leaking and it’s being replaced, drain the oil. If it’s transparent clear or yellow, with nothing floating around in it, there’s a good chance the rest of the system is in about the same condition. The odds are adding back the same amount of oil you removed from the system, changing your filter-drier (or accumulator, if so equipped), evacuating and recharging the system will get you back up and running.</p> <p>If the oil removed is dark in color or has anything floating in it, you can rest assured the system is going to require a liquid flush. This cannot be done with the system fully assembled. Instead, this should be done with each part individually to ensure that not only the contaminant but the flushing agent is fully flushed out of the system. Once completed, replace any o-rings, add a full charge of oil, replace the filter-drier (or accumulator, if so equipped), evacuate, recharge the system and you should be cool again!</p>urn:store:1:blog:post:121https://www.originalair.com/is-a-g-body-a-good-investmentIs a G-Body A Good Investment?<p>As classic muscle cars continue to increase in price, motor heads are looking for other opportunities to jump into the hobby at an affordable price. One of those desired cars are the GM G-body cars from the mid-80s. These cars were very popular and were marketed as the Buick Regal, Chevrolet Monte Carlo, Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme and the Pontiac Grand Prix.</p> <p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/images/uploaded/blog/1987_Buick_Regal_Limited_(1).jpg" alt="1987 Buick Regal Air Conditioning" width="600" /></p> <p>If you didn’t know, the G-body designation was actually previously used for the 69-72 Pontiac Grand Prix and 70-72 Chevy Monte Carlo before they were rolled back into the A-body. There were some variations before the official G-body roll out in 1982, with the familiar body lines and style lasting until approximately 1987 (the Monte Carlo carried it until 1988).</p> <p>Of all the G-bodies, the most revolutionary and sought-after model is the Buick GNX. The Buick Grand National came out in 1982 and were originally painted charcoal gray. In 1984, the Grand National came in black and was 200hp of turbocharged V6 performance with sequential fuel injection. By 1986, the Grand National was making 235hp, and with some modifications could easily outperform V8 cars of the day. All of this led to the limited production GNX for 1987 with close to 300hp and over 400 lb ft of torque. Today, it’s not unusual for Buick Grand National GNX’s to go for more than 200K at auction.</p> <p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/images/uploaded/blog/buick gnx.jpg" alt="Buick Grand National AC System" width="600" /></p> <p>Back to affordable G-bodies, there are many variations from the base models for consideration. The Monte Carlo SS with extra body cladding or the one with the unusual back window, the Regal T-Type from 1983, the Chevy El Camino SS from 82-87, or the Hurst Olds from 83-84. The difficult part is finding one that hasn’t spent years under a tree or has been extremely neglected.</p> <p>Pricing for G-bodies use to be under 10K just five years ago. Prices in 2022 are reaching 20K for fair to good cars, with nicer cars going for over 20K USD. Additionally, the number of cars to shop from continue to decline as many end up either parted out or junked.</p> <p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/images/uploaded/blog/monte-carlo.jpg" alt="Monte Carlo AC System" width="600" /></p> <p>If you plan on getting a G-body, and you do find one and the air conditioning is not working, then just hit us up. We carry all the AC parts needed to get the factory AC working on it again and give your G-body a second chance to cruise in comfort.</p>urn:store:1:blog:post:120https://www.originalair.com/reader-ride-1978-ford-broncoReader Ride - 1978 Ford Bronco<p>Pieter shares with us his 1978 Ford Bronco with upgraded AC:</p> <blockquote> <p>Purchased my 1978 Ford Bronco from a Kansas farmer about 15 years ago. I always wanted this Bronco when in high school. I finally got one! I restored it over many years and finally got my AC working with Original Air's Factory kit. The  kit that fit perfectly and so well designed. Easy install and now blowing nice and cold here in Tennessee. </p> </blockquote> <p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/images/uploaded/reader rides/78-bronco-1.jpeg" alt="1978 Bronco AC System Parts" width="600" /></p> <p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/images/uploaded/reader rides/78-bronco-2.jpeg" alt="1978 Bronco AC System Parts" width="600" /></p> <p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/images/uploaded/reader rides/78-bronco-3.jpeg" alt="1978 Bronco AC System Parts" width="600" /></p> <p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/images/uploaded/reader rides/78-bronco-4.jpeg" alt="1978 Bronco AC System Parts" width="600" /></p> <p> </p> <p>Do you have a classic Ford Bronco that you are working on? If so, check out our parts here: <a href="https://www.originalair.com/search?adv=true&amp;cid=0&amp;mid=0&amp;vid=0&amp;q=bronco&amp;sid=true&amp;isc=true&amp;orderBy=undefined">FORD BRONCO AC PARTS</a></p>urn:store:1:blog:post:119https://www.originalair.com/why-you-should-replace-your-factory-ac-drierWhy You Should Replace Your Factory AC Drier<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/blog/0019406_68-74-gm-ac-filter-drier-15-1240-aluminum.jpeg" alt="" height="400" /></p> <p style="text-align: left;">Owning a classic car requires dedication to maintenance simply due to the aging of various parts on the vehicle. When it comes to the maintenance of your factory AC system, questions regarding AC part replacement on daily driven classics versus stored classics arises often. One part that you may, or may not have considered is the replacement of your AC drier.</p> <p>An AC drier’s function is to act as a temporary storage area for refrigerant and oil in the AC system during periods of low need, such as when the car has reached the correct temperature and the vent fans are running on low. Inside the AC drier there is desiccant material. The desiccant material functions to absorb moisture that may be in the AC system, usually introduced during servicing. Additionally, moisture in the air, such as in high humidity regions can seep into the system. Once the drier reaches it’s maximum ability to absorb moisture, it is no longer effective and will need replacement.</p> <p>Anytime you are opening the entire system, as during a restoration or just to replace a hose, it is highly recommended to replace the AC drier. When the air conditioning system components are exposed directly to air, the drier desiccant immediately begins to absorb moisture. If your AC drier is an original component, 30+ years of function may be heavily degraded which can lead to corrosion in the system and degrade the compressor’s lubricating oil performance.</p> <p>So if you plan to do work on your factory AC system that involves replacing a part that exposes the system to air, plan to purchase a new AC drier. Some companies require that the AC drier is replaced when changing or upgrading the compressor to have a valid warranty.</p> <p>Have you changed your AC drier on your ride? Is your drier the original one from the factory?</p>urn:store:1:blog:post:118https://www.originalair.com/electric-ac-compressors-worth-the-upgradeElectric AC Compressors - Worth the Upgrade?<p>If you have ever ridden in a hybrid or electric vehicle, you probably never noticed that the air conditioning system was fully electric. Just like the changes to power steering, belt-driven components in vehicles have been replaced by fully electric components. One of the questions that come up often is can you replace your existing air conditioner compressor with an electric one?</p> <p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/images/uploaded/blog/electric-ac-compressor.jpg" alt="Electric AC Compressor" width="600" /></p> <p>Let’s start with the electric AC compressor. For almost 20 years, electric AC compressors have been used in hybrids, fully electric and some gas-powered cars. When the start-stop function became an option, there had to be an ability to keep the air conditioning system operating. It would be miserable pulling up to a stop light on a hot summer day and have the cooling suddenly stop to save fuel. Removing the dependency on engine power to drive the compressor with a belt led to development of the electric air conditioning compressor, which could possibly lead to reducing load on the engine and improving horsepower and efficiency.</p> <p>If an electric AC compressor is efficient and can promote more horsepower, why can’t I switch my existing compressor in my factory air equipped classic car from belt driven to electric? Well, it’s a bit more complicated and the primary factor has to do with the power requirements. An electric AC system has traditional components such as the evaporator, condenser, etc., with an AC compressor operating off 3-phase power. To manage the electric AC compressor function, a dedicated controller is required and a larger power system is required beyond the stock 12V battery in the vehicle.</p> <p>Yes, you could convert to an electric AC system, but the costs may be prohibitive. The extra weight of the larger battery and the integration of a dedicated controller system negates the efficiency and horsepower benefits of converting to a fully electric AC system. A Sanden compressor for comparison is just as efficient and more effective as it can be mounted in the factory location with very few adjustments.</p> <p>Do you currently have a vehicle with an electric AC compressor? Would you attempt to do a conversion on your classic vehicle?</p>urn:store:1:blog:post:117https://www.originalair.com/reader-ride-thomas-1978-pontiac-trans-am-400Reader Ride - Thomas' 1978 Pontiac Trans Am 400<p>Thomas shares his 1978 Pontiac Trans Am equipped with factory air with us this month:</p> <blockquote> <p>Car has been in the family since day one. I recently became the custodian of the bird. I ran through the car mechanically and have it running real reliable. Visually I just tidied up all the rough bits on it. Car has 52k original miles on it.</p> <p>It received an original air stage 1 kit to get the factory a/c running cool.</p> <p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/images/uploaded/1978-pontiac-trans-am-ac.jpeg" alt="1978 Pontiac Trans Am Air Conditioning" width="600" /></p> </blockquote> <h3 style="text-align: center;">Got a cool ride? Be sure to share it with us at the link below to be featured with thousands of our readers!</h3> <h3 style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.originalair.com/rides/">Submit Your Reader Ride Today!</a></h3>urn:store:1:blog:post:116https://www.originalair.com/junes-cool-ride-of-the-monthReader Ride - 1964 Chevrolet Corvair Monza Convertible<p>This car was originally owned by astronaut John H Glenn, Jr., while still living in Houston Texas area.  After changing ownership 4 times, I acquired it in 2001 (I'm the 5th owner).  I have copies of all titles dating back to John Glenn.  The car was essentially a beater when I purchased it, but it still had most of the original parts, including the engine and factory AC components.  It took me some time to get around to it, but I finally fully restored it to Factory Stock condition in early 2021.  I did all of the mechanical work, including disassembly and reassembly, interior work, etc.  The body work and paint were done by a restoration shop.  After completing the restoration, I presented the car at a Corvair Society of America concours in Springfield, IL May 2021 in which it won Best of Show scoring 97.69 (out of 99).  On July 17th, 2021, the car was part of John Glenn's 100th birthday celebration in New Concord, OH.</p> <p>Original Air restored the Evaporator core, Expansion Valve, Receiver/Dryer, and Compressor - all of them the original components.  I restored the remaining parts of the AC system.  The AC system is charged with R12, as it was delivered from the factory.</p> <p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/images/uploaded/reader rides/1964 Chevrolet Corvair Monza Convertible 4.jpeg" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/images/uploaded/reader rides/1964 Chevrolet Corvair Monza Convertible 5.jpeg" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/reader rides/1964 Chevrolet Corvair Monza Convertible 1.jpeg" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/reader rides/1964 Chevrolet Corvair Monza Convertible 2.jpeg" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/reader rides/1964 Chevrolet Corvair Monza Convertible John and Annie Glenn.jpeg" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/reader rides/1964 Chevrolet Corvair Monza Convertible R F Gardner Title.jpeg" alt="1964 Chevrolet Corvair Monza Convertible" width="600" /></p> <h3 style="text-align: center;">Got a cool ride? Be sure to share it with us at the link below to be featured with thousands of our readers!</h3> <h3 style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.originalair.com/rides/">Submit Your Reader Ride Today!</a></h3>urn:store:1:blog:post:115https://www.originalair.com/fun-facts-about-the-pick-up-truckFun Facts About the Pick-Up Truck<p>It would be difficult to argue that there is any vehicle more uniquely American than the pickup truck. What started out as the most basic form of transportation for farmers and tradespeople has become one of the most popular forms of personal transportation for millions of individuals and families. Pickup trucks today are loaded with nearly every creature-comfort available and are often loaded with no more than the family groceries and the occasional bicycle or two.</p> <p>As the popularity of the pickup truck has increased over the decades, so has the variety of models and available options. This has ushered in a whole new generation of buyers, enabling them to choose anything from the basic work truck to the rugged off-roader, to the family-friendly truck loaded with all the features you could ask for. The Dodge Ram alone offers 12 different trim levels, and every major manufacturer offers at least 3 different cab sizes, several bed lengths along with two and four-wheel drivetrain options.</p> <p>The shift in truck-buying can be further proved in that only 15% of truck owners use their pickups for work, but that’s the beauty of the pickup truck. They’ve become so versatile that they can easily switch between the comfortable daily commuter to weekend workhorse. And let’s not forget – TAILGATE PARTIES!</p> <p>In one form or another, Americans have been enjoying pickup trucks ever since Henry Ford’s vision of converting the military truck into a vehicle for domestic use was realized with the Model TT in 1917 – that’s over 100 years! That one-ton truck cost the consumer $600 at that time which would equate to around $13,500 today. In its first year the Model TT sold 209 units. A year later Chevrolet released their Model 490; a light delivery vehicle with a half-ton chassis. Both trucks were chassis-only and required the new owner to build (or have built) and install their own truck bed. Still, even with the increasing competition from so many manufacturers, the F-150 remains the most popular pickup truck every year.</p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/blog/square-body-trucks.jpg" alt="Classic Pickup Trucks" width="600" /></p> <p>Below are a few more fun facts about the pickup truck:</p> <p> <strong>21% of all vehicles sold in the US are pickup trucks<sup>1</sup>:</strong></p> <p style="padding-left: 30px;">“Pickup trucks accounted for 20.57 percent of all vehicles in operation and SUVs 11.42 percent, according to analysis by Experian Automotive.” -Aftermarketnews.com</p> <p><strong>The Ford F-Series has been the number one selling vehicle in America since 1982<sup>2</sup>:</strong></p> <p style="padding-left: 30px;">Since 1977, the F-Series has remained the best-selling pickup truck line in the United States; it has been the highest-selling vehicle overall since 1981. The F-Series is the best-selling vehicle in Canada for over fifty years. -Wikipedia</p> <p><strong>Nascar added a Truck Series in 1995<sup>3</sup>:</strong></p> <p style="padding-left: 30px;">The series was previously called the NASCAR SuperTruck Series in 1995, the Craftsman Truck Series from 1996 through 2008, the Camping World Truck Series from 2009 through 2018, the Gander Outdoors Truck Series in 2019, and the Gander RV &amp; Outdoors Truck Series in 2020. The series' name reverted to Camping World Truck Series starting in 2021. - Wikipedia</p> <p><strong>July 20 is National Ugly Truck Day<sup>4</sup>:</strong></p> <p style="padding-left: 30px;">Each year several states hold “ugly truck” competitions. While varying in their rules, each is a showcase for the contestants’ well-used pick-ups, vans, and sport utility vehicles. Entries can range from ancient, hobbling wrecks to ornately adorned art trucks. – uglytruckday.com</p> <p> </p> <p><em><strong>Have you owned a pickup truck? If you could buy a classic pickup truck, which one would you get?</strong></em></p> <p> </p> <p>Source:</p> <p><sup>1</sup> <a href="https://www.aftermarketnews.com/number-of-suvs-pickup-trucks-on-the-road-holds-strong-according-to-experian-automotive/">https://www.aftermarketnews.com/number-of-suvs-pickup-trucks-on-the-road-holds-strong-according-to-experian-automotive/</a></p> <p><sup>2</sup> <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_F-Series">https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_F-Series</a></p> <p><sup>3</sup> <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/NASCAR_Camping_World_Truck_Series">https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/NASCAR_Camping_World_Truck_Series</a></p> <p><sup>4</sup> <a href="http://www.uglytruckday.com/about/">http://www.uglytruckday.com/about/</a></p>urn:store:1:blog:post:114https://www.originalair.com/insulation-can-affect-how-cool-your-car-can-getInsulation Can Affect How Cool Your Car Can Get<p>You have taken the time and effort to restore your car to top condition. With summer coming, you have been tweaking and tuning your AC system for optimal performance and to keep you cool while cruising. Your AC system is blowing cold air, your windows are tinted (or clear UV protected) and your weather stripping is keeping all the gaps closed tight.</p> <p>But is there something else you could do?</p> <p>Keeping cool means also keeping the heat out of the vehicle cabin. Your engine generates a lot of extra heat that can transfer to the firewall, heating the metal of the firewall itself which then increases the heat inside cabin. You sometimes feel that heat directly at your feet and legs, but that heat is also rising behind the dash and entering the cabin; defeating all your efforts to keep cool.</p> <p>To prevent heat transfer, you need insulation.</p> <p>Now, you may have put some foil on the firewall facing the engine, but you need something more significant for the interior side of the firewall. Carpet can help a bit, but carpet is not purpose-built as an insulator or barrier to effectively prevent heat transfer. You need insulation that is specific to automotive applications that can be applied directly to the vehicle or layered within the vehicle. In addition to materials added to the bottom of carpeted flooring, modern vehicles have insulation that is also applied directly to the vehicle's body to prevent heat intrusion into the cabin.</p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/blog/classic-car-insulation.jpg" alt="Classic Car Insulation" width="600" /></p> <p>So, what are your options for insulation for your classic car? If you are in the middle of a restoration, a spray-on or directly applied insulator may be an effective solution. Products such as Lizard Skin have gained popularity over the past several years as a solution to blocking heat and are applied similar to paint, providing full coverage in difficult to reach places or complex shapes, where a laid-matting type solution may not be as effective. Another option is going the mat-applied route using materials such as Membrane to cover floorpans, firewalls and doors. The insulation mat can be cut in various shapes, usually peel and stick, and then can be rolled and massaged into place on the vehicle. The mat solution also allows you to do a section at a time so you don't miss out on any car shows.</p> <p>Beyond insulating the cabin from heat and cold, insulation can serve as a sound deadener. This provides your vehicle with a quieter cabin by reducing road and suspension noise. So, when you are seeking to keep your car cooler than when it came from the factory, look at adding or replacing the insulation in your classic car, especially at the firewall.</p> <p>Have you upgraded your insulation to keep your classic car cooler?</p>urn:store:1:blog:post:113https://www.originalair.com/marchs-cool-ride-chucks-1969-shelby-gt350March's Cool Ride Chuck's 1969 Shelby GT350<p style="text-align: left;">Thank you to Chuck for sharing his beautiful Mustang with us:</p> <p style="text-align: center;">I bought the car in 1978 from the original owner when it had 101K miles. It was in bad shape but the owner never fixed anything which was good news. It even had the original Shelby rear shocks. I restored the car in '78. It was the first car I ever painted and then I restored it again in 2012. I did everything myself except the paint. This Shelby was 1 of 150 cars that year that went to Hertz as a rental for a year and then bought back by Ford to be resold.  </p> <p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/images/uploaded/reader rides/69 shelby .jpg" alt="1969 Shelby Front view" width="667" height="258" /></p> <p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/images/uploaded/reader rides/1969 Shelby Back .jpg" alt="1969 shelby rear view " width="674" height="449" /></p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/reader rides/1969 Shelby Engine.JPG" alt="1969 shelby engine under the hood view" width="677" height="451" /></p> <p style="text-align: center;">Thanks again Chuck! Got a cool ride? Be sure to share it with us at the link below to be featured with thousands of our readers!</p> <p style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.originalair.com/rides/">Submit Your Reader Ride Today!</a></p>urn:store:1:blog:post:112https://www.originalair.com/the-importance-of-weather-strippingThe Importance of Weather Stripping<p>With summer approaching, the spring-like moderate days will warm up to the point you are going to depend on your classic car's air conditioning system to keep you cool. You have already upgraded or tuned-up your AC system and possibly tinted your windows. What else can you do to insure you are getting the most efficiency out of your factory AC system?</p> <p>One area that gets neglected is weather stripping. On modern cars, there may be two layers of weather stripping that help insulate the interior and provide a nice solid seal when closing the door. Most classic and muscle cars typically came with one layer of weatherstipping. When your car came from the factory, the doors and windows were lined with weather stripping made from rubber. Over the years, the rubber will deteriorate from conditions such as rain, snow, ice, UV rays, heat cycles and dirt. The rubber can get hard and lose its ability to seal effectively, or it will start to break apart leaving gaps and making it difficult to insulate the cabin. Additionally, this may lead to extra moisture getting into the cabin that can lead to a musty or moldy smell that can damage the interior.</p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/blog/classic-car-weather-stripping.jpg" alt="Classic Car Door Weatherstripping" width="600" height="450" /></p> <p>Weatherstripping is an insulator - it helps keep the cold A/C air in while keeping the heat and humidity out of the cabin. There are several aftermarket companies that make replacement weather stripping for classic cars and worth the investment. So put this on your to do list and be sure the check your weather stripping in the door jams, and get down low and check under the doors as that is wear typically most of the damage to weather stripping occurs.</p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/blog/muscle-car-weather-stripping.jpg" alt="Upper Weather Stripping" width="600" height="450" /></p> <p>Some tips to consider for weather stripping repair and replacement:</p> <ul style="list-style-type: undefined;"> <li>Use only the recommended amount of weatherstripping that is designed and made for your vehicle’s specific application. Too much and you may encounter issues closing doors and windows.</li> <li>The old weatherstripping may still be usable. If the rubber is still pliable, it may be reworked with some extra adhesive filler. Also, it may be best as the OEM part may not be available.</li> <li>Make sure the new matches the old. Check all mount points, width, length to insure a perfect fit.</li> <li>Plan for some shrinkage. Plan to leave a 1/4 to 1/2 inch of weather stripping to allow for shrinkage after installation and weather acclimation.</li> <li>Begin the installation and gluing process in the center of the lowest portion of each seal, as this is where water typically gathers.</li> </ul> <p>Have you had your weather stripping replaced on your car? Was it difficult to find weather stripping for your classic car?</p>urn:store:1:blog:post:110https://www.originalair.com/window-tint-options-for-classic-muscle-carsNew Window Tint Options For Classic Muscle Cars<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/Pontiac-Window-Tint.jpg" alt="Classic Car Window Tinting" width="600" /></p> <p>A topic that commonly appears among classic and muscle car forums are how to further improve on cooling interiors while cruising during the hot summer months. Beyond having a fully-functional factory air conditioning system, many users argue over whether to tint the windows on their ride. Now if you own a murdered out resto-mod, it can make sense to go with dark tinted windows to deflect the heat and UV rays, not to mention add to the cool look of the car. However, most automotive purists prefer not to put window tint on their vehicles as they feel it takes away from the factory look, seems out of place for the era, or assume it may devalue the car overall. But what if there was a solution that provided all the benefits of tinted windows, without the tint? Fortunately several companies have developed a great tint solution for your classic car.</p> <p>The newest automotive window films are currently produced by <a href="https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/p/d/b00016683/">3M</a> and <a href="https://llumar.com/na/en/automotive/window-tint/clear/">LLumar</a>. Their products consist of multi-layer clear film solutions that can block 99% of UV rays while providing a 50 percent reduction in solar heat. Once the tint is applied, it is nearly impossible to see as it still uses the same nano-ceramic construction in regular window tint, minus the window-darkening color. Another advantage to it's transparency is that it can be installed on the windshield, further enhancing the UV and heat protection for the entire interior of the car. A great solution to prevent dash fading and cracking after you just spent quite a bit of time and money to restore it!</p> <p>So, do you think you would tint the windows on your classic now knowing these options? If you already have window tint, would you consider removing to try the clear tint option?</p>urn:store:1:blog:post:111https://www.originalair.com/februarys-cool-ride-pauls-1971-ford-falcon-351February's Cool Ride: Paul's 1971 Ford Falcon 351<p style="text-align: center;">This 1971 Ford XY Falcon GT 351 was built in May 71. I bought the car in August 71 after it was repossessed. The car had air conditioning from new and I bought a conversion bracket to fit the latest compressor from Original Air around 2016.</p> <p style="text-align: center;"> <img src="https://www.originalair.com/images/uploaded/1971-Ford-Falcon.jpeg" alt="front view blue 1971 XY Ford Falcon GT 351 " width="640" height="480" /></p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/1971-Ford-Falcon-2.jpeg" alt="Close up view blue 1971 Ford XY Falcon GT 351" width="640" height="480" /></p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/1971-Ford-Falcon-3.jpeg" alt="AC View 1971 Ford XY Falcon GT 351" width="640" height="480" /></p> <p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/images/uploaded/1971 Ford Falcon-2.jpg" alt="blue 1971 ford falcon" width="640" height="480" /></p> <p style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.originalair.com/search?adv=true&amp;cid=0&amp;mid=0&amp;vid=0&amp;q=ford+falcon&amp;sid=true&amp;isc=true&amp;orderBy=undefined&amp;utm_source=Reader+Ride+&amp;utm_medium=blog&amp;utm_campaign=Feb+2022">AC Upgrade Kits for Falcon</a></p>urn:store:1:blog:post:108https://www.originalair.com/januarys-cool-ride-marks-1971-plymouth-barracuda-318January's Cool Ride: Mark's 1971 Plymouth Barracuda 318<p>I bought the car in 1980 from the original owner near Kansas City. I was visiting relatives there and saw the car in an ad in the local newspaper. I already owned a 74 Barracuda but couldn't pass up this rarecar. I was working as a mechanic at a Chrysler / Plymouth dealership in Sioux Falls, SD at the time so I was able to go through the car and make sure it was good mechanically. The car was original with all part numbers matching. I drove the car over the next 40 years using it in parades and enjoying driving around with the top down. After 40 years everything was getting tired, so I started a complete restoration. It took about 2 years, but the car now looks like it came off the showroom floor. I've already had it in one parade and have driven it about 400 miles. It's really fun driving the car and getting all the smiles and "thumbs up" from all the car fans.</p> <p> </p> <p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/images/uploaded/reader rides/71 Barracuda Conv 2.jpg" alt="1971 Plymouth Barracuda" width="320" height="240" /></p> <p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/images/uploaded/reader rides/71 Barracuda Conv 1.jpg" alt="1971 Plymouth Barracuda " width="320" height="240" /></p> <p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/images/uploaded/reader rides/71 Barracda Conv 3.jpg" alt="1971 Plymouth Barracuda AC " width="320" height="240" /></p> <p> </p> <p style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.originalair.com/search?q=barracuda+upgrade&amp;adv=true&amp;cid=0&amp;isc=true&amp;mid=0&amp;pf=&amp;pt=&amp;sid=true&amp;adv=false&amp;isc=false&amp;sid=false" target="_blank">AC Upgrade Kits for Barracuda</a></p>urn:store:1:blog:post:109https://www.originalair.com/increasing-the-value-of-your-car-with-functional-acIncreasing the Value of Your Car with Functional AC<p>We all know that when your factory AC is working on a hot summer day, you simply enjoy the pleasures of your car more. It's a great feeling when you just spent several hours hanging out by your car during a get together, rally or car show and can literally chill driving back home. You know that having working air conditioning is valuable to you, but can having a functional AC system also increase your car's monetary value?</p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/blog/AC.JPG" alt="AC not functional " width="800" height="533" /> <br />This car was recently spotted at Mecum for sale. Think it would have sold for more with working AC?</p> <h3>The Reasons For Restoring Factory AC</h3> <p>Recently while attending the 2022 Mecum Kissimmee auction, we noticed quite a few cars that had factory AC systems still installed, but several of them were non-working. When you are getting a car ready for sale, typically you would go through the entire vehicle and make sure that leaks are addressed, interior is clean, exterior is washed and waxed, etc. You know...doing what you can to get the most value out of the vehicle. But why would you skip taking care of the AC?</p> <p>The factory air-conditioning systems on cars from the 60s-early 90s were typically an option that had to be specified by the dealer or optioned by the customer when ordering. We have seen many of the early cars go for exponentially more money when optioned with AC versus not having the factory AC. When reviewing the cars and trucks at Mecum, it is usually documented on the spec sheet so buyers are aware that the vehicle has factory AC.</p> <p>So back to the AC question - is it worth restoring back to fully functioning? YES! Unless it is a track car, you should always repair it and make it operational again. Remember, the AC system has a compressor, condenser, hoses, and an evaporator. Each of these are components that have a potential to fail, making the whole system inoperable. This is not like a radio not working. There are a lot of parts under the hood that require engine operation to make it all work, including the AC. But, it's an investment that provides a return as it is a selling point for most buyers. Just think how much complete aftermarket systems cost when factory AC was not included on the vehicle!</p> <p>Here are a couple of other things to consider. If you are buying a classic car and the factory AC isn't working, could that possibly be an indicator of how well the owner maintained the vehicle? Could there be other issues not immediately present that may influence whether you want to buy the vehicle. Consider where the majority of classic and collectible cars are found...typically in states like California, Florida, Texas and Arizona. These states can be warm year-round and having functional AC is a definite MUST.</p> <p>So, if your AC is not working or you have a buddy that has a car he/she takes to shows and shows off an engine with the AC disconnected, address the issue and get to fixing it by restoring it or upgrading to a factory system that usea 134a. It's easy and affordable to do, will increase the value of the vehicle, elevate the comfort of your ride.</p>urn:store:1:blog:post:107https://www.originalair.com/a-history-of-the-three-point-seatbeltA History of the Three Point Seatbelt<h2>A History of the Three Point Seatbelt</h2> <p>60 years ago, the world became much safer with the invention of the three-point seatbelt. It’s still recognized today as the world’s most important traffic safety invention, saving an estimate of over one million lives in total.</p> <p>Choosing to use your seatbelt can also be choosing between life and death. Reports indicate that you double your chance of surviving an accident if you take the time to buckle up. Although the history of seatbelts seems rather obvious, there was a point in time where they did more harm than good.</p> <p>Here’s a little seatbelt history on how the three-point seatbelt became the modern car’s seatbelt of choice.</p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/reader rides/fasten-your-seatbelts.jpg" alt="Fasten Your Seatbelt" width="800" height="533" /></p> <h3><strong>Cars Pre-1959</strong></h3> <p>Before 1959, the two-point seatbelt was the safety norm even though they weren’t often used. The only ones who typically buckled up were racecar drivers. When people would strap in, they’d buckle the two-point belt across their lower abdomen causing serious internal injuries in high-speed crashes.</p> <h3><strong>Volvo’s Safety Standards</strong></h3> <p>After the Volvo CEO Gunnar Engelau lost a relative in a car accident, the company committed to improving their safety standards. They hired Swedish engineer and inventor Nihls Bohlin, who for much of the 1950s, worked on ejector seats for Saab fighter airplanes.</p> <p>Bohlin was not unfamiliar to seatbelt engineering. He worked on the more elaborate four-point harness found in fighter jets. However, he knew airplane safety measures would be unrealistic in automobiles, still having the potential to cause more harm than good.</p> <p>The new safety design needed to provide an effective way to protect the driver during a crash while also staying easy to get in and out of.</p> <h3><strong>A Three-Point Solution</strong></h3> <p>Within one year, Bohlin created a three-point seatbelt for Volvo in 1959. The belts anchored both the upper and lower middle of the body. This caused less force to be exerted on the lower middle causing injury as the case with the two-point.</p> <p>According to Bohlin, “It was just a matter of finding a solution that was simple, effective and could be put on conveniently with one hand.”</p> <p>Volvo offered the design for free to car companies around the globe. In less than 10 years, the United States started requiring all new vehicles to feature the design.</p> <h3><strong>A Lesson on Seatbelt History</strong></h3> <p>A study of vehicle technologies between 1960 and 2012 found that seatbelts saved 329,715 lives in the USA alone – more than any other technology. Furthermore, seatbelts save approximately 11,000 American lives each year.</p> <p> </p>urn:store:1:blog:post:106https://www.originalair.com/novembers-cool-ride-scotts-1969-plymouth-roadrunner-383November's Cool Ride: Scott's 1969 Plymouth Roadrunner 383<p>I've had my Roadrunner about 12 yrs. It had not see any road time for about 20 yrs. before I got it. It was 8 yrs. of work (complete take down) until I was able to actually drive it on the road. Since it was a factory A/C car I had Original Air rebuild all the hoses and fittings along with various other components of the factory system. It still needs some finishing touches before it's complete but I am enjoying driving around southern California, like the one I had at 16 years old (until I sent that one to the wrecking yard, what can I say I was young.) Thanks for allowing me to keep the original factory A/C, when I open the hood it looks like 1969 just the way I wanted.</p> <p> </p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/reader rides/Scotts1969Roadrunner.jpg" alt="1969 Roadrunner AC" width="640" height="480" /></p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/reader rides/Scotts1969Roadrunner1.jpg" alt="1969 Roadrunner AC" width="640" height="480" /></p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/reader rides/Scotts1969Roadrunner2.jpg" alt="1969 Roadrunner AC" width="640" height="480" /></p> <p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/images/uploaded/reader rides/Scotts1969Roadrunner3.jpg" alt="1969 Roadrunner AC" width="640" height="480" /></p>urn:store:1:blog:post:104https://www.originalair.com/octobers-cool-ride-stevens-1970-chevy-el-camino-496October's Cool Ride: Steven's 1970 Chevy El Camino 496<p>I owned the car now for almost seven years in total. I've driven it for about just over two years. In August, I completed the 2021 Hot Rod Power Tour which is an event billed as the largest traveling car show in the world. It's a five-day tour where we travel from Norwalk, Ohio to Indianapolis to St. Louis and stop in Chicago, Illinois.</p> <p>Original Air components I have on the car include the <a href="https://www.originalair.com/70-72-chevelle-el-camino-sprint-engine-compartment-upgrade-kit-134a-stage-2">condenser, compressor, drier, and evaporator</a>. </p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/blog/elco cars coffee 1.jpg" alt="" width="70%" height="70%" /></p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/blog/elco rocket.jpg" alt="" width="70%" height="70%" /></p>urn:store:1:blog:post:103https://www.originalair.com/the-wagoneer-is-backThe Wagoneer is Back<p>In the early 1980s, AMC decided to go all-in on an aging platform. It decided to transform its old Wagoneer into the Grand Wagoneer thus opening up an entirely new buying audience. It ended up beating the Range Rover to the market while also outlasting its rival, the Land Rover.</p> <p>Decades later, the Grand Wagoneer is making a comeback. The <a href="https://www.jeep.com/wagoneer.html">new 2022 Jeep Grand Wagoneer</a> will reach dealers in the summer of 2022. It will sport top-notch features along with a price tag that can reach six digits as well as its less costly model, the Jeep Wagoneer.</p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/wagonnerjpg.jpg" alt="" width="70%" height="70%" /></p> <h2>Wagoneer History</h2> <p>The original Wagoneer, also known as the Full-Size Jeep, debuted in 1963. It remained a popular choice among buyers for decades. Shortly after its debut, however, Jeep determined it could woo an upscale clientele. Along came the Super Wagoneer, featuring luxury gear totally foreign to most trucks. Its power steering, tilt steering, power brakes, and high-end radio tripled the average transaction price of entry-level cars.</p> <p>AMC purchased Jeep in 1970, and product lines focused on Cherokee and the Jeep Wagoneer as opposed to upscale models. Even though AMC dealers urged a price increase on the Wagoneer, the truck would stay in its lane for the next decade.</p> <h2>More than Just a Truck</h2> <p>Toward the end of the 70s, AMC began pushing the idea of introducing another Wagoneer. Customers craved outdoor experiences even if it meant raising the price to account for a quieter, smoother ride. By 1982, the Limited made some serious sales while AMC piled on gear such as full interior updates and A/C.</p> <p>By the 80s, the last independent American carmaker was experiencing a financial crisis. This influenced the decision to condense the full-size Jeep to a single model driving consumers to the compact unibody XJ Cherokee. </p> <p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/images/uploaded/jeep-grand-wagoneer-on-display.jpg" alt="" width="70%" height="70%" /></p> <p>The Jeep Grand Wagoneer arrived in 1984 and it brought most of the gear that came with the Limited. Many examples were powered by an original AMC design - the 5.9-liter V8, good for 140 horsepower and 280 lb-ft of torque, although significantly less mighty. 1986 brought the last styling update, a new grille, a Jeep logo hood ornament, and a modernized interior.</p> <p>The first sales of the Jeep Grand Wagoneer were solid at an asking price of $19,000, placing it above contemporary trucks like the GMC Jimmy and Ford Bronco. Even though Chrysler purchased AMC in 1987, sales stayed the course. </p> <h2>The End and the Return</h2> <p>The truck was discontinued in 1991 mostly due to safety standards and single-digit fuel economy. The new wave of luxury SUVs was led by the Mercedes Benz M-Class and the Lincoln Navigator, shifting the focus to maximizing passenger room.</p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/wagoneer-2022.jpg" alt="" width="70%" height="70%" /></p> <p>Current Chrysler owner Fiat Chrysler revived the Grand Wagoneer to sit on a platform like Ram’s 1500 pickup. Along with its less expensive, lower-trim model, it will sport the same three-row seating similar to full-size rigs from Ford, Lincoln, Chevy, and GMC.</p> <p>Do you have a Grande Jeep Wagoneer or a Jeep Wagoneer? We'd love to see it. Grab a camera and <a href="/rides">submit your ride</a> here for a chance to win some Original Air merch as well as be featured on our socials. </p>urn:store:1:blog:post:102https://www.originalair.com/septembers-cool-ride-bobbys-1977-ford-f100-ranger-302September's Cool Ride: Bobby's 1977 Ford F100 Ranger 302<p>My truck was originally purchased new by my father William Council. It was used primarily as a farm truck for many years. My brother Billy was given the truck in the nineties after my father became unable to drive.</p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/blog/Truck Outside.jpg" alt="" width="70%" height="NaN" /></p> <p>He did some restoration to the engine, transmission, and body/paint. He sold the truck to me in December of 2009.</p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/blog/Truck Outside 2.jpg" alt="" width="70%" height="70%" /></p> <p> </p> <p>I have had the truck repainted, new chrome, and rebuilt the rear end. I also added a retractable tonneau cover, headers, and a bench seat from a 1996 Ford F150.</p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/blog/Truck Inside.jpg" alt="" width="70%" height="70%" /></p> <p>I had the factory air replaced with an <a href="https://www.originalair.com/76-79-ford-f-series-bronco-hipo-ac-rotary-compressor-upgrade-kit">Original Air compressor kit</a> which includes the hoses and compressor. The truck is a great vehicle to drive and is really an eye-catcher on the road. I know that my father would really be proud of the vehicle today and I wish he was here to see it, as he passed in 1998.</p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/blog/Truck Interior 2.jpg" alt="" width="70%" height="70%" /></p> <p style="text-align: left;">Do you have a story you'd like to share? Submit it <a href="/rides">here</a> for a chance to be featured!</p>urn:store:1:blog:post:101https://www.originalair.com/concours-restoration-definedConcours Restoration Defined<p>If you’re in the restoration world and value the authenticity of classics just as much as we do, you’ve probably heard the term concours restoration. You’re probably also familiar with the confusion surrounding what qualifies as a concours. We’ve come across different versions of the meaning through the years and thought we’d share what we feel is the most accurate definition.</p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/blog/concours-oldsmobile.jpg" alt="" width="70%" height="70%" /></p> <h2>What is a Concours Restoration?</h2> <p>A car qualifies as a concours restoration once its reconstruction is near original perfection. Every individual part from the bolts to the finish must be refurbished to its original state. The process is long and incredibly meticulous, infinitely more so than a sought-after restomod.</p> <p>To put a concours in better perspective, we once met a guy who only worked on a few cars per year. On one of his projects, there was a small scratch on the hood. He had to repaint the entire car costing him about $25,000. If we remember correctly, he ended up selling this piece for $350,000.</p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/blog/ford-escort-concours.jpg" alt="" width="70%" height="70%" /></p> <h2>What Actually Qualifies as a Concours Restoration?</h2> <p>The term “as close as possible” is favored in the concours d’elegance world. Not only is it next to impossible to completely restore a vehicle back to original perfection, but it can also be next to impossible to verify.</p> <p>In many cars, certain vintage parts are either unavailable or difficult to come by. Finding an alternative solution that closely resembles that part can suffice in some circumstances. In most cases, collectors attempt to restore original parts back to their prime.</p> <h2>Concours vs. Restomod </h2> <p>On paper, it makes sense. A concours is a restored classic near original perfection. A restomod is a classic that features more modern, modified parts. However, sellers and auctioneers can stretch the truth and embellish certain features leading to why confusion surrounds the term.</p> <p>An excellent restomod is as beautifully restored as it is modified. The objective of restomods isn’t necessarily to restore it back to perfectly correct period conditions. Instead, their goal is to reinvent a classic to fit a modern landscape.</p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/blog/ferrari-concours.jpg" alt="" width="70%" height="70%" /></p> <h2>Gasparilla Concours D’elegance</h2> <p>If you have any questions about a concours or a restomod, come meet us at the Gasparilla Concours D’Elegance. Between December 3<sup>rd</sup> to December 5<sup>th</sup>, we’ll have a table at the TPC Tampa Bay Golf Course. Be sure to check us out.</p> <p>Do you have a concours restoration? Submit it <a href="/ride">here</a> and tell us your story for a chance to win some Original Air merchandise as well as be featured in our socials. See you soon.</p>urn:store:1:blog:post:100https://www.originalair.com/augusts-cool-ride-aarons-chevrolet-camaro-305August's Cool Ride: Aaron's 1991 Chevrolet Camaro 305<p>I purchased my Chevrolet Camaro on August 5th, 1994 while enlisted in the Navy. It was my daily driver for years. Around 2016, I started to restore the car to its current form. After 26 years of owning the car, I have no plans to ever sell. In February 2018, I purchased and installed an Original Air AC kit to update the air conditioning system. My Camaro is now named "Raven" and she's won many car show awards.</p> <p>Original Air components on the car include the <a href="/gm-condensers">condenser</a>, <a href="/gm-hoses-lines">hoses</a>, <a href="/replacements">compressor</a>, <a href="/gm-controls">switch</a>, <a href="/filter-driers-accumulators">drier</a>, <a href="/filter-driers-accumulators">accumulator</a>, <a href="/valves">expansion valve</a>, and <a href="/gm-evaporators">evaporator</a>. </p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/blog/94 camaro 1.jpg" alt="" width="70%" height="70%" /></p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/blog/94 camaro 2.jpg" alt="" width="70%" height="70%" /></p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/blog/94 camaro 3.jpg" alt="" width="70%" height="70%" /></p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/blog/94 camaro 4.jpg" alt="" width="70%" height="70%" /></p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/blog/94 camaro 5.jpg" alt="" width="70%" height="70%" /></p>urn:store:1:blog:post:99https://www.originalair.com/9-tubular-classic-cars-of-the-1980s-and-90sHow Valuable will These 80s & 90s Icons be in the Future?<p>The future of a rich aftermarket for 80s and 90s vehicles grows more likely with each passing day. We’re compiling a classic list of all things tubular and radical with our favorites from the 1980s and 90s that could very well earn you some serious cash in the near future.</p> <h2>Chevy 454 SS Pickup</h2> <p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/images/uploaded/blog/454-ss.jpg" alt="" width="70%" height="70%" /></p> <p>Kicking off the 90s with a performance truck is exactly what Chevrolet did with the 454 SS. A single-cab C1500 with two-wheel drive and a short-box regular cab was upgraded with a 454 V8 rated at 230hp and 385lb/ft of torque. Easy to spot with the big stickers on each side of the bed, they are rarely seen on the road anymore. If you are looking for a cool, functional daily driver collectible, then this truck may be for you.</p> <h2>Pontiac Fiero GT</h2> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/blog/bigstock--188490637.jpg" alt="" width="70%" height="70%" /></p> <p>Before the Corvette C8, there was the Pontiac Fiero GT mid-engine sports car from GM. Pop-up headlights, two seats, manual transmission, and integrated stereo speakers in the driver and passenger headrests initially made it a very desirable car. The first mass-produced mid-engine sports car by an American car manufacturer, GM sold over 370K of them. The 86-88 V6 SE and GT models are desirable and fun cars to add to your collection.</p> <h2>Plymouth Prowler</h2> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/blog/bigstock-Plymouth-Prowler-In-Motion-Blu-429095654.jpg" alt="" width="70%" height="70%" /></p> <p>Influenced by car designer Chip Foose, the Plymouth Prowler invoked a classic hot rod design with a modern flare. Open Indy racer-style front wheels and a high back rear end gave the car a dramatic stance but seriously lacked power with a 214hp SOHC V6. Destined to be a classic, it would perhaps be better for a swap project for a 5.7 HEMI or a modern LS.</p> <h2>GMC Typhoon / Syclone</h2> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/blog/Typhoon.jpg" alt="" width="70%" height="70%" /></p> <p>Only available in black, the Syclone features a 4.3 turbocharged V6 and all-wheel drive. The complimentary Typhoon, which came in various colors and was based on the GMC Jimmy, sported the same drivetrain but also had an air-operated self-leveling rear suspension. Either is highly sought after and will continue to increase in value.</p> <h2>Lincoln Town Car</h2> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/blog/bigstock-Retro-car-Lincoln-Town-Car---91882916.jpg" alt="" width="70%" height="70%" /></p> <p>The ultimate luxury car for executives in the 80s, the boxy rectangular Lincoln Town Car was a plush floaty V8 powered rear-wheeled drive land yacht. Prices have been increasing lately for these cars as they are hard to find and even fewer in relatively decent condition. Make an impressive statement by valeting this ride at your favorite restaurant!</p> <h2>Ford F-150 SVT Lightning</h2> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/blog/Ford F-150 Lightning.png" alt="" width="70%" height="70%" /></p> <p>In 1992, Ford decided to get into performance trucks, especially after the initial success of the aforementioned Chevy 454 SS pickup. Featuring a 5.8L 351 Windsor V8 producing 240hp, the F-150 based Lightning also focused on street performance with handling inspired by Jackie Stewart. The 93-95 trucks are naturally-aspirated while the 1999-2004 Lightnings were supercharged and produced 360-380hp. Either generation will continue to be desired collectibles.</p> <h2>Cadillac Eldorado Coupe</h2> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/blog/cadillac-eldorado-coupe.png" alt="" width="70%" height="70%" /></p> <p>There have been twelve generations of Cadillac Eldorado Coupes, some great ones and some not so (at least on the design side). The ones we recommend getting your hands on are the tenth generation ones from 79-85. The Biarritz model had a stainless-steel roof and frameless door glass, and some of the rare ones had a V8 diesel engine. Highly collectible would be the 84-85 convertibles, of which approximately 5,500 were made. </p> <h2>Pontiac Grand Prix GT/GTP</h2> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/blog/1991 Pontiac Grand Prix.png" alt="" width="70%" height="70%" /></p> <p>The Grand Prix has been around for several generations, but the hard-to-find ones we expect to be collectible are the 91-96 GT and GTP models. Mini-quad lamps were unique to them and they even had heads-up displays. There were 1000 Richard Petty Editions for 1992 made, have you even seen one of those?</p> <h2>Corvette C4</h2> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/blog/bigstock--183289786.jpg" alt="" width="70%" height="70%" /></p> <p>The 83-96 C4 Corvettes were a major redesign over the Zora Arkus-Duntov C3 with a completely new chassis and suspension setup. Although the ZR1 is highly coveted, the other trims have continued to rise in value. Over 350K were built, but less than 500 are available for sale currently, with many available for less than $10,000.</p> <p>Do you have a radical classic from the 80s or 90s? We want to see it. Grab your camera, take some photos, tell us its story and<a href="https://www.originalair.com/rides"> submit it here</a> for a chance to be featured in our newsletter and socials.</p>urn:store:1:blog:post:97https://www.originalair.com/how-to-stay-organized-during-a-car-restoration-projectHow to stay organized during a car restoration project<p>Taking on a restoration can get chaotic fast. It consists of many smaller projects drawn out into one long process to follow. Therefore, it's no surprise things can become unorganized.</p> <p>Taking pictures and documenting the restoration project will help if you ever decide to sell the vehicle. For someone who wants to either purchase or resell the car, the proper paperwork is essential to show the price and the work that has been put into it. Well-kept paperwork will trace the car's history and show its real value. The proper documentation addresses these would-be-buyer concerns, inspiring confidence in the car and adding monetary value. </p> <p><span class="TextRun SCXW241679545 BCX0" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US" data-contrast="none">As the classic car community continues to grow, most collectors will share their information online, whether it's just for you or for sharing with people in the same process. Taking a few extra steps in the stages for restoration and some discipline to document and photograph the project will help show your work.</span></p> <p><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW232214610 BCX0">Our very own Orlando Anderson breaks down his tips and tricks of how he stays organized during a car restoration project. You can pick up the majority of the items he lists at the local convenience or </span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW232214610 BCX0">dollar store. </span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW232214610 BCX0">Here are some helpful tips that will assist with your car projecy.</span></p> <div class="OutlineElement Ltr BCX0 SCXW241679545"> <h2 class="Paragraph SCXW241679545 BCX0" style="text-align: center;">Keep the Value of Your AC</h2> <p>Before you even begin planning for a restoration, learn the value of your starting point. We've seen too many car projects where DIYers ended up dumping an original AC for more horsepower. </p> <p>The line between determining a modification from a restoration is often blurred. However, know if you lean toward the modification and enhancement route particularly by swapping out the AC, the car will drop in value.</p> <p>A classic car can be a muscle car, but not a racecar. As soon as these vehicles adopted the term "classic," their racing days were over.</p> <p>If by some chance you already gutted your system or plan to turn your classic into a performance car instead, Original Air will buy your parts! Make some extra cash and<a href="/sell"> fill out this form</a>.</p> <h2 class="Paragraph SCXW241679545 BCX0" style="text-align: center;">Purchase Supplies</h2> <p class="Paragraph SCXW241679545 BCX0">What you'll need:<span class="EOP SCXW249575343 BCX0" data-ccp-props="{}"> </span></p> <ul> <li class="Paragraph SCXW241679545 BCX0"><span class="TextRun SCXW249575343 BCX0" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US" data-contrast="auto">Sharpies (fine and thick tip)</span></li> <li class="Paragraph SCXW241679545 BCX0"><span class="TextRun SCXW249575343 BCX0" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US" data-contrast="auto">Notebook</span></li> <li class="Paragraph SCXW241679545 BCX0"><span class="TextRun SCXW249575343 BCX0" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US" data-contrast="auto">Envelopes</span></li> <li class="Paragraph SCXW241679545 BCX0"><span class="TextRun SCXW249575343 BCX0" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US" data-contrast="auto">Stackable storage bins</span></li> <li class="Paragraph SCXW241679545 BCX0"><span class="TextRun SCXW249575343 BCX0" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US" data-contrast="auto">Tags</span></li> </ul> <h3><span class="TextRun MacChromeBold SCXW206443138 BCX0" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US" data-contrast="auto"><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/images/uploaded/OA-4.jpg" alt="" width="70%" height="NaN" /></span></h3> <h2 style="text-align: center;"><span class="TextRun MacChromeBold SCXW206443138 BCX0" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US" data-contrast="auto">Use a Camera</span></h2> <p><span class="TextRun SCXW206443138 BCX0" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US" data-contrast="auto"><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW206443138 BCX0">This is a great way to document small details</span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW206443138 BCX0"> of the </span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW206443138 BCX0">restoration process</span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW206443138 BCX0">.</span></span></p> <p><span class="TextRun SCXW206443138 BCX0" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US" data-contrast="auto">Taking pictures while working on the car can provide a before and after. It can show the work that has been done to the car and the work you have put into it.<span class="TextRun SCXW255951487 BCX0" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US" data-contrast="auto"><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW255951487 BCX0"> </span></span></span></p> <p><span class="TextRun SCXW206443138 BCX0" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US" data-contrast="auto"><span class="TextRun SCXW255951487 BCX0" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US" data-contrast="auto"><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW255951487 BCX0">I also recommend getting </span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW255951487 BCX0">a notebook to create a sort of log that you can put images and diagrams into</span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW255951487 BCX0">.</span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW255951487 BCX0"> A notebook will track all the adjustments and change</span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW255951487 BCX0">s</span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW255951487 BCX0"> you ma</span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW255951487 BCX0">d</span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW255951487 BCX0">e to the </span><span class="NormalTextRun ContextualSpellingAndGrammarErrorV2 SCXW255951487 BCX0">car</span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW255951487 BCX0"> and y</span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW255951487 BCX0">ou can </span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW255951487 BCX0">then creat</span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW255951487 BCX0">e a full story of the car restoration project. My biggest tip is making sure your handwriting is legible to go back and track your steps and share with others.  </span></span><span class="EOP SCXW255951487 BCX0" data-ccp-props="{}">  </span></span></p> <p><span class="TextRun SCXW206443138 BCX0" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US" data-contrast="auto"><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW206443138 BCX0">If you don’t have a digital camera, most smartphones have a great camera on them and can take a cle</span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW206443138 BCX0">an photo</span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW206443138 BCX0">. Most are </span><span class="NormalTextRun AdvancedProofingIssueV2 SCXW206443138 BCX0">pretty easy</span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW206443138 BCX0"> to </span><span class="NormalTextRun ContextualSpellingAndGrammarErrorV2 SCXW206443138 BCX0">use</span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW206443138 BCX0"> and </span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW206443138 BCX0">it takes</span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW206443138 BCX0"> minimal expertise to figure them out.</span></span></p> <p><span class="TextRun SCXW206443138 BCX0" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US" data-contrast="auto"><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW206443138 BCX0">One trick that helps me is </span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW206443138 BCX0">to </span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW206443138 BCX0">be sure t</span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW206443138 BCX0">hat I</span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW206443138 BCX0"> take several pictures of a particular area</span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW206443138 BCX0">. For example, </span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW206443138 BCX0">a far shot to see the entirety, and some close-up shots on the spot. Be sure you get enough pictures of the area, so you do not lose the context of your photos when going back. </span></span><span class="EOP SCXW206443138 BCX0" data-ccp-props="{}"> </span></p> <div class="OutlineElement Ltr SCXW232214610 BCX0"> <div class="OutlineElement Ltr BCX0 SCXW206443138"> <p class="Paragraph SCXW206443138 BCX0"><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW206443138 BCX0">Depending on the lighting in your workplace, I would make sure when taking pictures that you do not wash out small details by using the flash on the camera. Purchasing a</span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW206443138 BCX0">n LED work light </span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW206443138 BCX0">if you don’t own one will help for pictures. </span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW206443138 BCX0">U</span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW206443138 BCX0">pload all the pictures </span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW206443138 BCX0">i</span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW206443138 BCX0">nto a devoted folder on your computer to keep the photos safe until you need to look at them </span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW206443138 BCX0">again. </span></p> <h2 class="Paragraph SCXW206443138 BCX0" style="text-align: center;"><span class="TextRun MacChromeBold SCXW255951487 BCX0" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US" data-contrast="auto"><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW255951487 BCX0">Use Video</span></span></h2> <p class="Paragraph SCXW206443138 BCX0"><span class="TextRun SCXW255951487 BCX0" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US" data-contrast="auto"><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW255951487 BCX0">U</span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW255951487 BCX0">sing video can help get a full look into the restoration process from bumper to bumper.</span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW255951487 BCX0"> Video</span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW255951487 BCX0"> is another way to show a before and after of the car and the </span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW255951487 BCX0">work you did on it. </span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW255951487 BCX0">Additionally, y</span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW255951487 BCX0">ou can also use the video to share your work with car restorers.</span></span></p> <p class="Paragraph SCXW206443138 BCX0"><span class="TextRun SCXW255951487 BCX0" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US" data-contrast="auto"><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW255951487 BCX0">When doing</span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW255951487 BCX0"> a full recording of the car</span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW255951487 BCX0">,</span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW255951487 BCX0"> </span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW255951487 BCX0">you can</span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW255951487 BCX0"> </span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW255951487 BCX0">identify more</span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW255951487 BCX0"> information as you </span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW255951487 BCX0">work</span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW255951487 BCX0"> on the </span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW255951487 BCX0">vehicle</span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW255951487 BCX0">. When looking at the playback</span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW255951487 BCX0">,</span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW255951487 BCX0"> you </span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW255951487 BCX0">may</span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW255951487 BCX0"> see a detail you missed </span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW255951487 BCX0">or were </span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW255951487 BCX0">not focusing on</span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW255951487 BCX0"> at that moment</span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW255951487 BCX0">.</span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW255951487 BCX0"> </span></span><span class="EOP SCXW255951487 BCX0" data-ccp-props="{}"> </span></p> </div> <div class="OutlineElement Ltr SCXW206443138 BCX0"> <div class="OutlineElement Ltr SCXW255951487 BCX0"> <h2 style="text-align: center;"><span class="TextRun MacChromeBold SCXW126344992 BCX0" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US" data-contrast="auto">The Envelopes</span></h2> <p><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW126344992 BCX0">I use many different-sized envelopes to keep the project organized. When taking apart the car, I will put the car parts into envelopes and label them. If you do not have any </span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW126344992 BCX0">envelopes, </span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW126344992 BCX0">re-sealable zipper storage bags</span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW126344992 BCX0"> </span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW126344992 BCX0">will also do the trick.</span><span class="EOP SCXW126344992 BCX0" data-ccp-props="{}"> </span></p> <p class="Paragraph SCXW255951487 BCX0"><span class="TextRun SCXW126344992 BCX0" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US" data-contrast="auto">I use the sharpies to label each envelope or bag with the name of the parts inside. Be sure to be as clear and descriptive as possible on the envelope. I will place all my full envelopes in the stackable storage bins to keep everything in the right place and ensure nothing gets left behind. This also makes retrieving parts easy.   </span><span class="EOP SCXW126344992 BCX0" data-ccp-props="{}">  </span></p> <div class="OutlineElement Ltr SCXW126344992 BCX0"> <h2 class="Paragraph SCXW126344992 BCX0" style="text-align: center;"><span class="EOP SCXW126344992 BCX0" style="font-size: 11pt;" data-ccp-props="{}"><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/images/uploaded/OA.jpg" alt="" width="70%" height="70%" /></span></h2> <h2 class="Paragraph SCXW126344992 BCX0" style="text-align: center;"><strong><span class="TextRun MacChromeBold SCXW14995400 BCX0" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US" data-contrast="auto">Tags</span></strong></h2> <p class="Paragraph SCXW126344992 BCX0"><span class="TextRun SCXW14995400 BCX0" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US" data-contrast="auto">I use tags for the parts that are too large to fit in the envelopes, but I still want to label them and keep everything organized. I will use a fine tip sharpie to label the tags because they are smaller and have less space to write on.</span></p> <p class="Paragraph SCXW126344992 BCX0"><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW14995400 BCX0">A</span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW14995400 BCX0">nother</span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW14995400 BCX0"> trick I learned</span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW14995400 BCX0"> - </span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW14995400 BCX0">I will sometimes label a number to the tag and match it in the </span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW14995400 BCX0">notebook,</span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW14995400 BCX0"> so it keeps it organized. Also, I will write on both sides of the tags. Once everything is labeled, I will place it in a storage bin until needed again.</span></p> <h2 class="Paragraph SCXW126344992 BCX0" style="text-align: center;"><span class="TextRun SCXW66745579 BCX0" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US" data-contrast="auto"><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW66745579 BCX0">Uploading</span></span><span class="TextRun SCXW66745579 BCX0" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US" data-contrast="auto"><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW66745579 BCX0"> Time</span></span></h2> <p class="Paragraph SCXW126344992 BCX0" style="text-align: left;">This is an extra step that I like to take; I will use my personal computer to store all the pictures and videos during the restoration project. I can go back and look at the photos and videos while working to zoom in on an area of interest.</p> <p class="Paragraph SCXW126344992 BCX0" style="text-align: left;"><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW66745579 BCX0">If I have the time and want to take an extra step, I will use Microsoft PowerPoint to create documentation to put pictures into a slide and add notes from my notebook. It’s a way to make</span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW66745579 BCX0"> </span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW66745579 BCX0">my notes and photographs cohesive. Once the restoration project is complete, I will also have a completed PowerPoint to show to others.</span></p> <p class="Paragraph SCXW126344992 BCX0" style="text-align: left;"><span class="TextRun SCXW66745579 BCX0" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US" data-contrast="auto"><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW66745579 BCX0">Be sure to rename photos when you import them into a computer. Therefore, they are easy to find. Instead of having a list of files that look </span><span class="NormalTextRun AdvancedProofingIssueV2 SCXW66745579 BCX0">similar to</span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW66745579 BCX0"> img1745.jpg, you can have an “emergency-brake-rod.jpg” to keep everything more organized. Make sure you back up the photos and data on a hard drive.</span></span><span class="EOP SCXW66745579 BCX0" data-ccp-props="{}"> </span></p> <p class="Paragraph SCXW126344992 BCX0" style="text-align: left;"><span class="TextRun SCXW66745579 BCX0" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US" data-contrast="auto"><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW66745579 BCX0">In conclusion, keeping everything organized, labeling your parts, and storing everything correctly will help with a restoration project. Take pictures and videos to refer to later and share with other collectors. Taking notes and writing down every detail of your restoration will help with fewer mistakes.</span></span></p> </div> </div> </div> </div> </div>urn:store:1:blog:post:98https://www.originalair.com/julys-cool-ride-johns-1963-ford-falcon-squire-wagonJuly's Cool Ride: John's 1963 Ford Falcon Squire Wagon<p>I purchased this Falcon out of a Florida barn in 2018. It arrived with an original Ford evaporator but it wasn't connected. I immediately sent it to Original Air to be refurbished but waited another three years to complete the job.</p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/blog/Resized Small.jpg" alt="" width="70%" height="70%" /></p> <p>I eventually found the correct York compressor and magnetic clutch and sent them to Original Air to be restored. In addition to a new condenser, drier, and all the hoses and fittings, I then had everything to install the system.</p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/blog/falcon-ac-engine.jpg" alt="" width="70%" height="70%" /></p> <p>A friend and I installed most of the parts ourselves but had to bring the Squire to a local Mustang shop to install the condenser and hoses. The system that Original Air restored runs great and everything works as it should. I couldn't be happier.</p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/blog/20210618_122306.jpg" alt="" width="70%" height="70%" /></p> <p>Original Air components on the car include the <a href="/ford-condensers">condenser</a>, <a href="/ford-hoses-lines">hoses</a>, <a href="/filter-driers-accumulators">drier</a>, and <a href="/ford-restoration-services">restored compressor and evaporator</a> also by Original Air. </p> <p>Do you want a chance to be featured? Tell us your classic's story and <a href="/rides">submit your ride here</a>. </p>urn:store:1:blog:post:95https://www.originalair.com/13-essential-chemicals-for-any-diyers-garage13 Essential Chemicals for Any DIYer's Garage<p>One of the only good things the pandemic had to offer was more time working on your car project. According to NPD research, at-home DIY automotive projects led to a 14% increase in aftermarket sales. </p> <p> As an aftermarket retailer, Original Air has seen purchases from all different age groups. We’ve also been getting an influx of questions on which chemicals we recommend using in your garage. These days, there are so many different chemicals online and in-store, they can make your head spin. Between adhesives, lubricants, cleaners, and penetrants, where should you start?</p> <p>Our very own Orlando Anderson breaks down what he thinks are some of the best automotive chemicals you should always have in your garage.  </p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/products.jpg" alt="" width="70%" height="70%" /></p> <h2>Skipping the Heavy Hitters  </h2> <p>In this article, we’ll be talking about automotive chemicals, but we’re skipping over some of the heavy hitters that most DIYers are familiar with. These consist of your essential fluids such as your <a href="https://www.originalair.com/4-graphs-showing-why-you-should-pick-synthetic-oil-over-conventional">oil</a>, coolant, and windshield wiper fluid. They’re not only obvious but also unique to each vehicle. </p> <p>The following items are more specific to DIY projects and things you’re doing with your hands to keep your classic looking sharp. We’ll discuss each product and why you want to have it handy in your garage rather than choosing a specific brand over another. </p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/blog/1. .jpg" alt="" width="235" height="237" /></p> <h2 style="text-align: center;"><strong>1. Basic Chassis Grease</strong></h2> <p>I love having a tub of chassis grease somewhere in my garage. Once I first purchased it, I ended up reaching for it probably two to three times a week. I didn’t even know I needed it until I saw it on sale at O’Reilly’s. You can use something like this all the time. </p> <p>I personally keep a paintbrush near it, so it’s easy to apply compared to a grease gun. However, if you have a grease gun, just fill it with the same grease. The point is, a tub keeps you from having to use the gun all the time.  </p> <p><br /><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/images/uploaded/blog/2 BLUE .jpg" alt="" width="203" height="419" /></p> <h2 style="text-align: center;"><strong>2. Blue Threadlocker </strong></h2> <p style="text-align: left;">Next, keep a basic blue threadlocker around. Simply put, it’s essential to have if you’re assembling items that need to stay together. Your blue threadlocker is the most common threadlocker you’ll find, and it’s also the weakest. But know you don’t have to go to a red or a green one because blue threadlockers still hold most applications. Red and green end up only giving you more issues since they’re a lot more challenging to remove. </p> <p style="text-align: left;">That being said, if you’re having issues taking apart something that’s been put together with a threadlocker, use heat. Lastly, remember if you need to take something apart that you assembled with a threadlocker, you should be able to. If you need to disassemble something that’s rusted solid, you’re going to have a hard time. Blue thread locker is easy to use, and it makes things go together correctly. </p> <h2 style="text-align: center;"><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/images/uploaded/blog/super-lube-91003-silicone-dielectric-grease-3-oz-tube.jpeg" alt="" width="50%" height="50%" /><strong>3. Dielectric or Silicone Grease</strong></h2> <p>A simple dielectric grease or silicone grease is excellent with electrical connections such as a GM weather pack connector or anything with a gasket. It makes the gaskets assemble correctly and sit correctly without being pinched. This way, they’ll actually stay weather-tight and corrosion-resistant. So if you build two things that are pushed together, they don’t rust and end up giving you a poor connection.</p> <p>This grease is a cheap and effective way to make sure all your electrical pieces will continue working for years.  </p> <p> </p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/blog/61H7pTT3ALL._SY445_.jpg" alt="" width="196" height="294" />     <img src="/images/uploaded/blog/Pb blaster .jpeg" alt="" width="286" height="286" /></p> <h2 style="text-align: center;"><strong>4. WD-4O and PB Blaster</strong></h2> <p>Next, we have a lubricant or WD-40 type of product. We also have a penetrating oil like PB Blaster. You don’t have to pick these specific brands since, between the two of them, the concept is the same.</p> <p>I use WD-40 to keep things from sticking together, eroding, and displacing water. WD actually stands for water displacing. Something like this can help you get rid of water on parts like distributor caps. </p> <p>We divided these into two categories because your PB blaster will get into the threads of something that is rusted. It can thus allow a fastener to break free.</p> <p>They should not be used interchangeably and should each have their own place in your garage. You’re probably already going to have WD-40 lying around somewhere since it’s a great household item as well.</p> <p>That being said, if you’re working on any classic, you’ll for sure need to have a penetrating oil somewhere in your garage. Find the one you like and stock up on it. I promise it’s going to make your life a lot easier. </p> <p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/images/uploaded/blog/6. strating .jpeg" alt="" width="148" height="287" /></p> <h2 style="text-align: center;"><strong>5. </strong><strong>Starting Fluid</strong></h2> <p>Although these days it’s considered partially controversial, I like using starting fluids as a diagnostic tool. If I’m looking for a vacuum leak or something on a carbureted car, I can spray starting fluid around the base so it pulls in. I can either feel or hear the idle rise of the car because this is flammable. </p> <p>Not all automotive aerosol chemicals are flammable. With your starting fluid, you’re going to definitely want to use it as a diagnostic tool. However, you can also use it for hard starting engines. We don’t recommend relying on it for that. However, it’s something worth keeping around and using sparingly.</p> <p> </p> <h2 style="text-align: center;"><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/images/uploaded/blog/7. white l g.jpeg" alt="" width="401" height="401" /><br /><strong>6. White Lithium Grease</strong> </h2> <p>White lithium grease is another automotive chemical I recommend having around. Similar to your WD-40, it is a lubricant. But it’s a bit more permanent and used for metal-to-metal surfaces. Think about using it on door latches, door hinges, or even steering column components. </p> <p>It’s plastic-safe, so if you happen to get it on something like a turn signal switch, it’s not going to be a huge concern. Plus, it doesn’t freeze, so if you live up north, putting something like this on door latches or inside a lock helps it function all winter. </p> <p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/images/uploaded/blog/carb cleanr .jpeg" alt="" width="260" height="390" /></p> <h2 style="text-align: center;"> <strong>7. Carburetor cleaner</strong></h2> <p>Another product that works well in the winter is carburetor cleaner. The best thing about it is that it cuts through any junk that’s leftover in the carburetor. It also works as an excellent tool for removing oil from the exterior of some products. Just make sure you contain it as it drips off whatever project you’re working with. </p> <p>Something like this can bring life back to the vehicle and help make it run again. If you're like me and rebuild a lot of carburetors, this tool is certainly something you’ll want to have laying around.  </p> <p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/images/uploaded/blog/SEM-Solve-38373-600x600.jpeg" alt="" width="264" height="264" /></p> <h2 style="text-align: center;"><strong> 8. Prep Sem Solve</strong></h2> <p>Not many people keep a prep sem solve in their garage. However, I think it’s something that just makes sense. This is a wax and grease remover that prepares the surface for paint. If you don’t correctly prep a surface before you paint it, you can end up with many issues like adhesion or fisheyes. Prepsol eliminates those issues and makes sure you have a good clean surface for the paint to adhere to. </p> <p>It’s also great for cleaning things off if you’re working with something with a lot of grease and needs to be clean. Prep-sol cuts through it while leaving the surface residue-free. I use it more often than I thought I would, even when I’m not painting anything since it’s such a great cleaning product. </p> <p> </p> <p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/images/uploaded/blog/brea.jpeg" alt="" width="226" height="526" /></p> <h2 style="text-align: center;"><strong> 9.  Brake Clean</strong></h2> <p>You’re more likely to find an empty break clean can in my garage than one that’s full. I’ve seen some people try to substitute carburetor cleaner for break clean and vise versa, but either way doesn’t work. Break clean doesn’t get rid of carburetor deposits nearly as well as carburetor cleaner can. Plus, carb clean doesn’t leave your break surfaces as clean as break clean does.</p> <p>Know the formulations are different and thus yield different results, so make sure you get the proper automotive chemical for the job that you’re working on. </p> <p>A couple of different types of break clean exist. You can find either a chlorinated style or a non-chlorinated style. The chlorinated tends to work better, but if you have environmental concerns or can’t find it due to limited availability, use the non-chlorinated.   </p> <p> </p> <p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/images/uploaded/blog/Engine Degreaser.jpeg" alt="" width="272" height="272" /></p> <h2 style="text-align: center;"><strong>  10. Engine Degreaser</strong></h2> <p>An essential engine degreaser like Speed Clean from Driven Racing removes gunk and heavy grime from engine blocks, engine compartments, under chassis stuff, and rear axles especially. Before you go under the car to fix a leak, hose it down with some of this and wash it off. Then you can go under and do your work. Don’t try to work around the grease and grime and finally remove it halfway through the project. Make your life easier by starting with an engine degreaser.</p> <p>Up until this point, everything I’ve talked about has been mainly for working on your classic. Now I’m going to list some items for keeping not only keep your classic clean but safe while driving. </p> <p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/images/uploaded/blog/glass cleaner.jpeg" alt="" width="252" height="252" /></p> <h2 style="text-align: center;"> <strong>11.   Glass cleaner</strong></h2> <p>First, find a great glass cleaner and use it regularly. What’s the point of working on a muscle car if the windshield doubles as a fly swatter. When it comes to glass cleaners, I recommend Sprayway. I’ve gone through more than enough of them and found that a non-ammonia type cleaner works better by streaking less and leaving less residue. </p> <h2 style="text-align: center;">12. Interior Cleaner</h2> <p>Lastly, we recommend using an interior cleaner or leather cleaner depending on the type of interior your car has. That’s going to make things more comfortable and looking better. If any of the above chemicals end up getting on your interior, use an interior cleaner like Meguilar’s Gold Glass leather cleaner to maintain that finish.      </p> <p> </p> <p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/images/uploaded/blog/261-5732.jpeg" alt="" width="163" height="352" /></p> <p>If you think there’s something we missed, leave a comment down below and let us know why it’s your garage go-to.</p> <p> </p> <p> </p>urn:store:1:blog:post:96https://www.originalair.com/junes-cool-ride-joels-ford-mustang-289June's Cool Ride: Joel's Ford Mustang 289<p>My high school-age son knew that his parents were suckers for old Mustangs.</p> <p>When I met my wife in 1977, she was still driving her ‘65 maroon coupe that she had bought used in 1966. My son and I were driving home from shopping when he spotted a 1965 Mustang in front of somebody’s house, on the lawn adjacent to the road we were on. He urged me to stop and see if it was for sale. It was, and the owner and I agreed on a price.</p> <p>It was my son’s car in high school until he ran it into a telephone pole during his senior year. Then it became mine. I fixed it up and found original AC parts (and a modern compressor and replacement hoses from your company). I proudly display the car at every local show I can attend. The car has been in the family since 2000.</p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/A966AAC4-570A-46A6-BA47-DA829FA277DB.jpeg" alt="" width="70%" height="70%" /></p> <p>Original Air components on the car include the <a href="/64-66-mustang64-65-rancherofalconcomet-condenser">condenser</a>, switch, <a href="/64-65-mustang-evaporator-coil-new">evaporator</a>, control, and brackets. </p> <p>See <a href="https://www.originalair.com/replacement-parts">similar products</a>. </p>urn:store:1:blog:post:94https://www.originalair.com/from-heel-to-horse-the-concept-of-mustang-that-almost-didnt-happenFrom Heel to Horse: The Concept of Mustang that Almost Didn't Happen<p>Named after a World War II fighter plane, the Mustang served as America's first pony car. Ford sold almost 4­00,000 within its first year of production. In fact, if you extend the model year, the number grows to 680,989. A Texas buyer reportedly even slept in a Ford showroom waiting for his check to clear so he could drive the new car home.</p> <p>It's no question that the workman's Thunderbird was wildly successful and continues to be today. It's also no question that 1960 was a momentous year for making American history. Eisenhower announced he would take whatever steps necessary to defend Cuba. Both Marilyn Monroe and Clark Gable finished filming their last movie, The Misfits. John F. Kennedy barely beat Nixon for the presidency. And Lee Iacocca was named VP and GM of Ford.</p> <p>Without Iacocca, the Mustang wouldn't exist. But, even with him, Mustangs barely made it to the showroom.</p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/meritt-thomas-BwBxVVdlpYE-unsplash.png" alt="" width="70%" height="70%" /></p> <h2><strong>The Legend of Lee Iacocca</strong></h2> <p>Lee Iacocca was named the vice president and general manager of Ford Motor Company's Ford Division in 1960. Iacocca started working for Ford in 1946, moved up the leadership ladder, and assisted with the launch of the Falcon, the first compact car.   </p> <p>After receiving his promotion, Iacocca wanted to focus on a more energetic and youthful vehicle. Iacocca felt that the Ford company hit the 60's with a dull image despite electing a new youthful leader. With the election of JFK, the country was on a trend of youthful appeal. Iacocca noticed the demand for the young style not being met.</p> <p>After introducing the Falcon in 1960, Ford threw around the idea of making a sportier version, but it just didn't fit the mold. Product Planner Dick Place agreed that the Falcon couldn't be turned into a sporty car. Doing so would be like "putting falsies on grandma."</p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/white-mustang.png" alt="" width="70%" height="70%" /></p> <h2><strong>The Fairlane Committee</strong></h2> <p>Iacocca began to set up offsite meetings at the Fairlane Inn, which became known as the "Fairlane Committee." They strategized key elements they wanted for the car that would also apply to many different tastes of people. No more than 180 inches at around 2500 pounds, they settled on a short-deck low profile and a T Bird-style long hood while offering six-cylinder and V-8 engines.</p> <p>While the Fairlane Committee continued meeting, Chevrolet boosted the sporty appeal with the Corvair Monza. Iacocca knew then that he wanted this next car to be everything opposite the Monza.</p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/yellow-mustang.png" alt="" width="70%" height="70%" /></p> <h2><strong>Three Strikes, You're In</strong></h2> <p>Ford styling chief Eugene (Gene) Bordinat began giving proposals to Henry Ford, which were soundly rejected, one after another. Finally, after half a dozen models and a two-week deadline, Iacocca picked two more designs; the sleek "Stiletto" and the "Cougar." With the "Stiletto" turning out too expensive to develop, Iacocca chose the "Cougar" model by David Ash.</p> <p>More finalized proposals were sent over to Henry Ford yet were rejected still. Iacocca ended up having to meet with Ford to get him to look at the proposals more thoroughly. After a tentative approval from Ford, Iacocca still had to jump through corporate hoops.</p> <p>With three strikes against him, it seemed like the Mustang would never see the light of day: </p> <ol> <li>Iacocca had to convince fiscally conservative leadership to invest in a much younger market.</li> <li>Said leadership was still reeling after the embarrassing failure of the Edsel.</li> <li>They had already set aside $250 million for the regular 1965 Ford line. </li> </ol> <p>Yet somehow, on September 10, 1962, Iacocca walked out of the meeting with a modest blessing of $40 million to design and engineer the sports car.  </p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/black-mustang.png" alt="" width="70%" height="70%" /></p> <h2><strong>The rest is history</strong></h2> <p>They scheduled to manufacture the first Mustang at the Dearborn plant on March 9, 1964. With 303,408 units built, Mustang would set all-time industry records in 1964, followed by two straight years of almost 600,000 units each.</p> <p>Lee Iacocca built his legacy on the monumental success of the Mustang. But, even with a long distinguished career of success and failure, he is forever remembered for producing America's most popular classic car.</p> <p>Do you have stories you'd like to share of your Mustang? Submit your <a href="https://www.originalair.com/rides">reader ride here</a> for a chance to be shared on Original Air's blog and social media. Original Air also has upgrade kits for Mustang, such as the <a href="https://www.originalair.com/66-mustang-ultimate-ac-performance-upgrade-kit-6-cyl-stage-3">66 Mustang A/C Performance Upgrade Kit 6 Cyl. STAGE-</a>3. See all of our <a href="https://www.originalair.com/search?adv=true&amp;cid=0&amp;mid=0&amp;vid=0&amp;q=mustang&amp;sid=true&amp;isc=true&amp;orderBy=undefined">Mustang products here</a>.</p>urn:store:1:blog:post:93https://www.originalair.com/mays-cool-ride-bradleys-ford-mustang-302-v8May's Cool Ride: Bradley's Ford Mustang 302 V8<p>Hi, my name is Brad. I have a 1968 Mustang with a 302 V8. The car a been in the family since my Great Grandma purchased it new from the dealer.</p> <p>When I was a kid, my Grandpa and I would have a lot of great times in it together. We would go get breakfast, go to car shows, or a ride to the mountain. I would help him with washing and waxing the car.</p> <p>In 1997, I was able to purchase the Mustang from my Grandma and have been restoring the car ever since. My last project was to install the air conditioning, and it looks great and blows cold.</p> <p>Original Air components on it include the <a href="https://www.originalair.com/late-67-68-mustang-cougar-ac-performance-upgrade-kit-289-302-stage-3">condenser, hoses, compressor, switch, drier, evaporator, and control</a>. </p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/20200719_134026.jpg" alt="" width="70%" height="70%" /></p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/20200719_134051.jpg" alt="" width="70%" height="70%" /></p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/20200719_134111.jpg" alt="" width="70%" height="70%" /></p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/20200719_134131.jpg" alt="" width="70%" height="70%" /></p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/20200719_134153.jpg" alt="" width="70%" height="70%" /></p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/20200719_134217.jpg" alt="" width="70%" height="70%" /></p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/20200719_134234.jpg" alt="" width="70%" height="70%" /></p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/20200719_134709.jpg" alt="" width="70%" height="70%" /></p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/20200719_135202.jpg" alt="" width="70%" height="70%" /></p>urn:store:1:blog:post:91https://www.originalair.com/11-classic-car-features-that-millennials-and-gen-z-will-never-understand11 Classic Car Features that Millennials and Gen Z Will Never Understand<p>One of our staff members used the pandemic to teach his grandson how to drive shift in his 1966 Pontiac GTO. This was his first time getting to sit in a car older than 2008. Instead of being puzzled by the best column shift around, he focused his attention on trying to work the cassette player and choke.</p> <p>Younger generations know all the great photography hacks and their way around every social media. However, if you ask them about a crank window, they might start scratching their heads. Thankfully the number of automotive projects increased during the pandemic, giving a good deal of twenty-something-year-old car enthusiasts a chance to take a deep dive into car history. Here is a list of throwback car features young folks can never appreciate. </p> <h2>Crank Windows</h2> <p>On a hot day driving down the highway, crank windows can be a pain to use. They require a firm grip and some serious elbow grease. Crank windows were standard up until the late 1980s. By 2008, power windows became so common that automakers stopped making crank windows. With the rates people spend on their smartphones while driving, we can only imagine the decimation we would cause if crank windows still exist.</p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/crank-windows-on-leather-seats.png" alt="" width="70%" height="70%" /></p> <h2 style="text-align: left;">Manual Door Locks</h2> <p>Another member of our staff recently bought his daughter a 2017 Chevy Cruze. When the battery died in her key fob, she called him in a panic, thinking she was stranded. He had to explain to her that you could use the key to unlock the door manually instead of using a button.</p> <p>Younger generations may not know how to manually unlock a car. Way before the keyless entry was invited, door locks were also manual<strong>.</strong> You would have to unlock a driver’s door with a key, then climb in and reach over to open the passenger door before automatic locks. The struggle was real.</p> <h2>Manual Door Mirrors</h2> <p>Remember when you had to ask your passenger to adjust the door mirror on their side? Move it to the right, down, now to the left. Perfect. Now the convenient electronic joystick makes life a little easier.  </p> <h2>Cassette Player</h2> <p>If you were to ask any twenty-something what a cassette is, most of them probably don’t know or have never used one. Here and there though, some millennials enjoy collecting records and even cassettes.</p> <p>Smaller cassette tapes were paradise after eight-track tapes, let alone a cassette inside a car. By the 1990s, most cars offered a radio that played both cassettes and CD. The last vehicle model in the United States that included a factory-installed cassette player was the 2010 Lexus SC 430.</p> <p>Although they were a pain to rewind, showing a box of cassette tapes to your friends has the same impact as a millennial sharing a playlist. A little piece of your soul sat in that box. The younger generations definitely are missing out on that feeling of opening a cassette and taking out the album art for the first time. </p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/blog/cassette-player.png" alt="" width="70%" height="70%" /></p> <h2 style="text-align: left;">Carburetors</h2> <p style="text-align: left;">Most car manufacturers stopped using carburetors in the late 1980s. Newer technology such as fuel injectors proved to be more efficient whether it was Quadrajet, Tri-Power, Stromberg, Holley, three-barrel, or four. No matter the type, they all required adjustments eventually.</p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/blog/old-rusty-carburator.png" alt="" width="70%" height="70%" /></p> <p style="text-align: left;">Many of <a href="https://www.originalair.com/upgrade-kits">Original Air's upgrade kits</a> include mounts for a standard, single-barrel carburetor (non-Shaker Hood) Small Block engine that was originally equipped with factory A/C. </p> <h2 style="text-align: left;">CB Radio</h2> <p>CB or citizens-band radios quickly grew into popularity in the late 1970s. Many of the classic car movies heavily influenced its rise to fame. Although a trend, some CB radios became the factory options on some models such as Cordoba. As the Bandit would say, ten-four.</p> <h2>Choke</h2> <p>Many of us remember using the choke on a cold morning to get the engine running. The choke valve restricted airflow to enrich the fuel-air mixture while starting the engine. Once the choke restricts air from the carburetor, it reduces pressure causing more fuel to be pushed from the main jet into the combustion chamber. When the engine is warm, reopening the choke valve restores the carburetor to its normal state. Later carburetors in the 80s started to do this process automatically until carburetors phased out entirely.</p> <h2>T-Tops</h2> <p>As another 70s trend popularized by Smokey and the Bandit, these stylish removable roof panels became the standard on every Corvette coupe from 1968 to 1982. Ford and Chrysler copied Corvette shortly after.</p> <p>Once guys named Vinny cruised up and down the Jersey Shore with their T tops down all throughout the 80s, we’re somewhat happy they died off with the fourth-generation Camaro and Firebird.</p> <h2>Velour Seats</h2> <p>In the 70s and 80s, you could find velour seats in anything from Honda Preludes to Cadillacs. Sitting on this stuff was like sitting on sponges. Regardless of the temperature outside, it only takes a couple of minutes to start sweating, and only a couple of minutes later would it take for the velour to absorb it all. Gross.</p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/blog/velour-seats.png" alt="" width="70%" height="70%" /></p> <h2 style="text-align: left;">Track Seat Belts</h2> <p>The 1990s seatbelt regulations invited these manually buckled lap belts paired with a motorized shoulder belt beauty. After you closed the door, the shoulder belt motored up a track next to the door opening and against your middle. They became a laughingstock in pop culture because they were prone to breaking. These irritating belts marred some pretty good cars like the Mitsubishi Station Turbo and the Ferrari Testarossa, so the whole idea was scrapped not too long after.</p> <h2>Car Phone</h2> <p>You were a nobody in 1987 if your car didn’t feature a mobile phone between the center armrest or next to the shifter. Most Gen Zs and millennials are finally cool once they get their first phone, regardless if it was smart or could flip. In 1946, the first car phones connected to the public switched Telephone Network in the United States. Not until the 1970s through the 1990s the car phone became popular. Most of the time, the phone didn’t work. But you <span data-ogsb="yellow">still donned the Yuppie or Preppie uniform.</span></p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/blog/car-phone.png" alt="" width="70%" height="70%" /></p> <p>Every car has a story. Did your <a href="https://www.originalair.com/together-again-a-1973-grand-ams-story-of-theft-and-restoration">classic get stolen during its restoration</a>? Did you almost total the car back when you were learning how to drive? Do you have memories of using certain car parts that are no longer used today? Share your story with Original Air today by commenting below or <a href="https://www.originalair.com/rides">submitting a reader ride</a>. You might even get a chance to be featured in our newsletter.</p> <p> </p>urn:store:1:blog:post:92https://www.originalair.com/aprils-cool-ride-mats-1968-mercury-marquis-390April's Cool Ride: Mats' 1968 Mercury Marquis 390<p>I purchased this unrestored dreamboat in the spring of 2015. My wife was suffering from cancer and passed away just a few months later but we got the opportunity to drive it to a big car meet before that. After that, I overhauled the engine, refinished the paint, and did some detailing. Now, I will try to get the factory-installed air conditioning working with some help from Original Air.</p> <p>The Original Air components I have in my care are the <a href="https://www.originalair.com/ford-condensers">condenser</a>, <a href="https://www.originalair.com/ford-hoses-lines">hoses</a>, <a href="https://www.originalair.com/replacements">compressor</a>, switch, <a href="https://www.originalair.com/filter-driers-accumulators">drier</a>, <a href="https://www.originalair.com/engine-compartment-upgrades-ford">expansion valve</a>, <a href="https://www.originalair.com/ford-evaporators">evaporator</a>, and <a href="https://www.originalair.com/ford-controls">control</a>.</p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/44031749_1915193701879898_6598622491822784512_o-Copy-1.jpg" alt="" width="70%" height="70%" /></p>urn:store:1:blog:post:89https://www.originalair.com/the-secret-solution-to-old-car-smellThe Secret Solution to Old Car Smell<p>As classics slowly begin emerging from their winter nap, you may notice a certain musty odor. However, it doesn’t necessarily mean it’s your AC. The older the classic and the longer the storage stay, the likelier your car can smell. These smells can range from cigarette smoke back from the 70s to mold spores due to poor storage. Here’s how ozone generators can fix the stench.</p> <h2 style="text-align: center;">If it’s not the AC</h2> <p>To understand how these can fix the stink, we’ll have to explain how ozone generators work. They basically bleach the air. Ozone generators break apart oxygen molecules using electric discharge. These single atoms then attach to oxygen molecules making them O<sub>3</sub> or ozone.</p> <p>Because these generators can break apart oxygen molecules, they can thus break apart organic compounds suspended throughout the air. In other words, ozone reacts with odor molecules by transmitting the extra molecule. Once the molecule is transferred, its chemical makeup changes thus changing the compound that once smelled.</p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/ozone generator (1).jpg" alt="" width="70%" height="70%" /></p> <p>If you choose to use an ozone generator, please remember to evacuate the space. Ozone is not oxygen which means it can harm you once inhaled. Give it enough time for the ozone to revert back to oxygen before using the car which generally means a couple of hours.</p> <p>Many sources discuss the dangers of using ozone. However, those taking the right precautions can avoid any negative consequences. To give you better context, we consider carbon monoxide to be dangerous and rightfully so contributing to 2500 deaths a year. However, we don’t think about it much when we walk down the street next to running cars.</p> <h2 style="text-align: center;">If it is the AC</h2> <p>Common smells coming from the AC include gas, mold, dirt, and sweet scents. If it smells like gas and you think it’s coming from your AC, it should be a strong smell. Gas-like smells from the AC can be minor or major issues. Sometimes the gas can be leftover from filling up your car or it can be anything from a gas leak to an engine issue.</p> <p>If it smells moldy, it could just be because of your car’s age. Over time, as air goes through the system, the water that is used can turn into mold. To prevent this, make sure you don’t blast your AC. This way, you produce less water. Lastly, check your AC to confirm no leaks or other issues exist. Older cars can smell dirty. If the scent comes from your AC, you may have neglected to clean your air filters. Filters can collect harmful pollutants, mold, dust mites, and other dirt that cause foul smells.</p> <p>Although sweet smells can bug you less, they can mean more damage. Many times, these smells are an issue with the cooling system since it uses coolant and antifreeze. This sweet scent can be toxic and should be addressed immediately. </p> <p>If that old smell can't seem to go away you may need to think about restoring your car's AC. If you need help with your restortation of your AC, Orginal Air can help.   <a href="https://www.originalair.com/services">Original Air can restore nearly any car air conditioning part from your 1950's through 1990's classic car plus newer models.</a> If you don't see the serivice part you need, contact us! We'd like to help. </p>urn:store:1:blog:post:90https://www.originalair.com/marchs-cool-ride-michaels-1965-mercury-parklane-390March's Cool Ride: Michael's 1965 Mercury Parklane 390<p>I found the car for sale on Craigslist in Northern Indiana. I took the front end of the car a part rebuilt the engine, transmission and sent the stock AC parts to Original Air for a rebuild. They did great work!</p> <p>Original Air components I have on my car are the <a href="https://www.originalair.com/ford-condensers">condenser</a>, <a href="https://www.originalair.com/ford-hoses-lines">hoses,</a> <a href="https://www.originalair.com/compressors-parts">compressor</a>,<a href="https://www.originalair.com/filter-driers-accumulators"> drier, </a>and <a href="https://www.originalair.com/valves">expansion valve. </a></p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/Mercury.jpg" alt="" width="70%" height="70%" /></p>urn:store:1:blog:post:88https://www.originalair.com/4-graphs-showing-why-you-should-pick-synthetic-oil-over-conventional4 Graphs Showing Why You Should Pick Synthetic Oil Over Conventional<p>The decision between going with synthetic versus conventional oil is an age-old debate. But what’s the real difference between them when it comes to your engine? Synthetic oil is made up of artificial chemical compounds while conventional is refined crude oil. We’re breaking down the explanations behind why you should pay more for synthetic.</p> <h2 style="text-align: center;">Viscosity Index</h2> <p>In physics, <a href="https://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/31645/viscosity-index-important">viscosity</a> describes a fluid’s resistance to flow. When an object flows through oil, for example, the oil resists the flowing object and the velocity the object is creating through its motion. Several different factors can affect the flow and resistance such as particles suspended in the liquid. The change in the viscosity due to a temperature change is called the viscosity index (VI).</p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/blog/Viscosity Index (VI).png" alt="" width="70%" height="70%" /></p> <p>Today, we’ll be looking at how the viscosity of the oils changes with temperature. Something with a low VI changes a lot with temperature while something with a high VI has less of a change. The lesser the change, the better.</p> <p>If we look at the molecules that make up the conventional oil, we notice that these molecules vary in size, shape, and weight compared to the synthetic. This results in a low VI. At low temperatures, the larger molecules resisting the flow cause conventional oil to be thicker. However, due to their varying sizes, smaller molecules exist as well that make conventional oil thinner at higher temperatures.</p> <p>Synthetic oil molecules are much more uniform which causes a higher VI. This means less change with temperature. So, at low temperatures, you have better flow due to less thickening, and at higher temperatures, you have a better flow due to less oil thinning out. Ultimately an oil that maintains its viscosity at higher temperatures means better wear protection.</p> <p style="text-align: center;"><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/beyNfMAQRlA" width="560" height="315" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen="allowfullscreen"></iframe> </p> <h2 style="text-align: center;">Volatility</h2> <p>In <a href="https://www.chemicool.com/definition/volatile.html">chemistry</a>, volatility describes how readily a liquid vaporizes. Some oil can evaporate once it is heated and thus lost. You want as much of that oil to remain a liquid as possible. There is an industry standardized test called the Noack Volatility test that heats oils at 250 degrees Celsius for one hour. Air flows over oils catching any particles being vaporized. After the hour, the liquid’s mass is measured.</p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/blog/Volatility.png" alt="" width="70%" height="70%" /></p> <p>With conventional oil, due to its many smaller molecules scattered throughout the liquid, it’s more prone to evaporation and thus losing mass. Plus, what you’re left with is many larger molecules making the oil very thick at lower temperatures. With synthetic, not as much is vaporized, so at lower temperatures, flow remains mostly the same.</p> <p>So what? This is a quite the afternoon experiment all to buy some crummy oil. Fortunately, this test is on the back of oil containers. Look for ILSAC GF-6 which indicates it passed the volatility test and didn’t lose more than 15% of its mass.</p> <h2 style="text-align: center;">Deposits</h2> <p style="text-align: left;">Additives can change the VI. To thicken the oil, you use viscosity modifiers. With synthetic oil, you use fewer of them than for conventional oil because your viscosity baseline begins lower. With these additives, you can get your conventional IV to line up equally to synthetic.</p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/blog/Deposits.png" alt="" width="70%" height="70%" /></p> <p>However, viscosity modifiers have very large molecules – 200 to 2,000 times the size of what is considered a large molecule in conventional oil. These are susceptible to creating deposits in the piston rings causing them to lock in place. Locked pistons can cause oil control loss, blowby, and cylinder damage. Because synthetics use fewer additives, they are less susceptible to deposits forming in these high-temperature areas.</p> <p>Classic car owners can worry less about small, turbo-sized engines, a new trend in the industry that cause more heat in a smaller area. While they may be all rated for the same viscosity, synthetic still can remain thicker at a higher temperature.</p> <h2 style="text-align: center;">Oxidation</h2> <p>A couple of months ago, we talked about <a href="https://www.originalair.com/the-risk-of-rust-a-history-on-how-automakers-fought-corrosion">how automakers fought corrosion</a>. Rust happens when a metal gives up its electrons to another piece of metal willing to receive it. Typically, a liquid, otherwise known as an electrode, facilitates this transfer. This is also known as oxidation.</p> <p> Something similar happens with motor oil: oxidation will react with it and change it. This forms a sludge-like substance and makes the molecules heavier. Heat accelerates this oxidation process. When looking at conventional oil, you see more unsaturated molecules.</p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/blog/Oxidation.png" alt="" width="70%" height="70%" /> </p> <p>These molecules have ring structures and double bonds that are susceptible to oxygen coming into higher temperatures, attaching to the molecule, and growing them in size. This causes the oil to become thick forcing you to change the oil.</p> <p>With a synthetic base oil, its saturated molecules do not have ring structures or double bonds which remain stable at high temperatures. Although not impossible, it’s much more difficult for oxygen to get into them. To prolong this process, you either need a stable base oil as with the case of synthetic oil or antioxidant additives that fights the oxidation.</p>urn:store:1:blog:post:87https://www.originalair.com/februarys-cool-ride-denniss-1982-chevy-corvette-350February's Cool Ride: Dennis's 1982 Chevy Corvette 350<p>I purchased it in 2004 and wanted to take this car on long road trips without breaking down. I really wanted a 1981 because it was the last year for the stick shifts.</p> <p>I ended up replacing the motor with a crate engine, 5-speed transmission, and changed the rear end gear to a 3.55. The car was originally a cream color, but I repainted it black. I also placed ZO6 wheels on it and many other upgrades. And I actually just gutted all air components and replaced everything new.</p> <p>Original Air components I have on my car are the <a href="https://www.originalair.com/73-82-corvette-condenser-parallel-flow">condenser,</a> <a href="https://www.originalair.com/replacements">compressor,</a> <a href="https://www.originalair.com/valves">switch</a>, <a href="https://www.originalair.com/service-custom-accumulator-rebuild-exc-filter-drier-equipped-cars-2">accumulator</a>, and <a href="https://www.originalair.com/restoration-gm-evaporators">evaporator.</a></p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/EBA8F65A-6D70-42CE-A45D-E2CFB5A9150C (1).jpeg" alt="" width="70%" height="70%" /></p>urn:store:1:blog:post:85https://www.originalair.com/the-best-fuel-stabilizers-the-good-bad-and-uglyThe Best Fuel Stabilizers: the Good, Bad and Ugly<p>A year ago, we wrote some winter car storage tips on <a href="https://www.originalair.com/6-ways-to-kill-your-classic">six ways to kill your classic</a>. One of our points was that nonuse is abuse. For those of you who live up north though, this is easier said than done. Many of you may feel that a fuel stabilizer is necessary and use it to keep the gas intact during the winter. Fuel stabilizers are supposed to leave your gasoline fresh after winter sitting. Some prove to do just that while most prove to do nothing. However, some cause harm to your car’s engine. So how can you tell the best fuel stabilizers apart from the ones that are as good as poison?</p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/blog/oa-fuel-stabilizers.jpg" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p>To start breaking down the question of what can kill your car while it sits and how, we’ll start by looking at what’s in gasoline. Or rather, what else is in gasoline. The EPA legally allows endless amounts of other chemicals and additives in gasoline which all evaporate at different rates. Thinner compounds tend to go first, then the heavier additives. This can clog up your fuel system. </p> <h2>Evaporation </h2> <p>Although this is something to make note of when storing your vehicle, fuel stabilizers are anti-evaporative. At least, they claim to be. Researchers found when testing popular stabilizers such as Sta-Bil, StarTron, SeaFoam, STP, K100, and Ipone, this wasn’t the case.</p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/oa-evap-test.jpg" alt="Test and video by FortNine.ca" width="600" /><br /><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=chsGBhB5g7o">Image from video by FortNine.ca</a></p> <h2>Water </h2> <p>Even so, this doesn’t necessarily mean that all fuel stabilizers are the murder weapon. Modern gasoline is partially ethanol, an alcohol that lessens gasoline’s negative effect on the environment. Ethyl alcohol is also hygroscopic meaning it tends to absorb moisture from the air. After it absorbs too much, the particles will no longer be suspended throughout the liquid and sink to the bottom.</p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/oa-water-test.jpg" alt="" width="600" /><br /><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=chsGBhB5g7o">Image from video by FortNine.ca</a></p> <p>This is why fuel stabilizers claim to be hydrophobic; to prevent the attraction to water in ethanol. When treating popular stabilizers with ethanol, K100 and StarTron actually drew more water. But stabilizers also contain methanol, a water-soluble fuel. If they blend instead of creating layers, they can help it burn away. In another test, researchers soaked paper in the ethanol and stabilizer solution and tried burning it. Every one burned except Ipone, which fizzled out.</p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/oa-fire-test.jpg" alt="" width="600" /><br /><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=chsGBhB5g7o">Image from video by FortNine.ca</a></p> <h2>Ice</h2> <p>Another issue is that water can freeze. Stabilizers also have anti-freeze properties. To put these properties to the test, researchers froze the ethanol stabilizer samples. Ipone and K100 froze within five hours while the rest stayed liquid.</p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/oa-freeze-test.jpg" alt="" width="600" /><br /><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=chsGBhB5g7o">Image from video by FortNine.ca</a></p> <h2>Oxygenation</h2> <p>Of all of the ethanol's faults, oxygenation is the worst. On one hand, you want an oxidizer in your fuel because oxygenated gasoline burns more completely leaving fewer emissions in the environment. On the other hand, the quicker the fuel oxidizes, the quicker the fuel goes bad. Fuel stabilizers have antioxidants in them which prevent redox reactions from eating away at the engine.</p> <p>So in another test, researchers dropped a small piece of metal in the ethanol stabilizer solution to see any deterioration. Every solution saw deterioration except for K100. Ipone and Sta-Bil saw smaller amounts of erosion while StarTron and SeaFoam were easily the worst.</p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/oa-oxidation-test.jpg" alt="" width="600" /><br /><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=chsGBhB5g7o">Image from video by FortNine.ca</a></p> <p>Although there are many ways an engine can go bad during winter storage, it is this oxidation that we see most typically kill cars.</p> <h2>Conclusion</h2> <p>In conclusion, ethanol is an accomplice to pretty much every storage crime. If you can fill your car with ethanol-free gas, you’re more likely to have fewer storage issues. However, we know that’s easier said than done. If you can’t get ethanol-free gas, fuel stabilizers don’t generally help much. The only exception is oxidation protection which only K100 does best. Just keep in mind is also freezes fast. Stabil is another tempting choice limiting water ingress.</p>urn:store:1:blog:post:86https://www.originalair.com/januarys-cool-ride-charles-1967-oldsmobile-cutlass-supreme-442-455January's Cool Ride: Charles' 1967 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme 442, 455<p>I've owned this car for more than 15 years and have spent the best part of that time restoring it a little at a time. It's not a factory number matching car, so I've taken some "liberties" with the restoration to make it more enjoyable to drive, including upgrading suspension, brakes, and driveline.</p> <p>The Original Air parts are the <a href="https://www.originalair.com/gm-hoses-lines">hoses</a>, <a href="https://www.originalair.com/filter-driers-accumulators">drier,</a> and<a href="https://www.originalair.com/valves"> expansion valve.</a></p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/blog/Charles' 1967 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme 442, 455 1.jpg" alt="" width="70%" height="70%" /></p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/blog/Charles' 1967 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme 442, 455 2.jpg" alt="" width="70%" height="70%" /></p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/blog/Charles' 1967 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme 442, 455 3.jpg" alt="" width="70%" height="70%" /></p>urn:store:1:blog:post:84https://www.originalair.com/together-again-a-1973-grand-ams-story-of-theft-and-restorationTogether Again: A 1973 Grand Am's Story of Theft and Restoration<p>My Father passed away when I was in high school. I decided that I would pursue an auto mechanic career. To gain experience, I restored a 1968 Camaro. I purchased the car in pieces without a motor. By the time I graduated, I had a mint condition Camaro with a 1963 corvette motor. It was an incredible car. The local police also had it on their “radar.”</p> <p>As it turned out, I was in love with my high school sweetheart. However, her father was transferred to Santa Fe. Of course, I had to follow her, so I found a college in Santa Fe to attend. I also planned on taking my Camaro. My mother had different plans for my Camaro. Unfortunately for me, I was not 18 when I purchased the car; the title was in her name.</p> <p>My father was a salesman and every two years he would take the family to Eddie Ruch Pontiac in Wheaton Illinois to order our new Pontiac Catalina. Harry Toft was our “family” salesman. Because my Camaro was popular with the local police, my mother was not going to let me take it to Santa Fe. Instead, we were going to see Harry to purchase a car she would consider safe for me. My grandfather had passed away and I had inheritance money. My mother insisted I would use this money to purchase a new car. She also informed me she did not care if she only got a dollar for my/ her Camaro, I was simply not taking it.</p> <p>I had two weeks to sell my Camaro! You can imagine I was not a happy customer. Harry showed us a Grand Am and bragged that it was a “sporty” car for me. My mother made me buy the car just a few days before I was to leave for Santa Fe. I was very angry. My Grand Am was in both of our names. My mother passed away many years ago and it wasn’t until last year that I finally obtained a title in my name.</p> <p>To make things worse, my mother insisted on riding with me to Santa Fe. A few days prior to departure, I decided to actually give the car a chance and started to check it out. Whoa! I discovered it had a 4 barrel 400 ci engine. I could easily get a 2<sup>nd</sup> gear scratch. And it was an AUTOMATIC!</p> <p>During the drive to Santa Fe, I discovered my Grand Am had many “deluxe” accessories. It had fully reclining seats with lumbar adjustment, awesome dome light, headlight bright dim switch on the blinker arm, excellent stereo 8 track, cockpit-style seating and great console, full gauges, tilt steering wheel, and incredible handling (RTS was new). But most of all, the car was fast. I buried the speedometer many times on long stretches of I 40 (old 66 from Chicago to Albuquerque). The car was so smooth, my mother had no idea. I LOVE THIS CAR!</p> <p>My fellow students at the College of Santa Fe loved it also. More importantly, my girlfriend and her parents loved my Grand Am. I still maintain close contact with her parents (I did not marry their daughter) and they still love my Grand Am 47 years later. Below is a photo with my college friend Rubin at a rest stop at Tucumcari New Mexico. l wanted to look like Hank Williams, Jr. The other is a picture of my car at a stream in the Pecos. Yes, I did drive the car into the stream. I paid a price for doing it. I crunched in my gas tank. To this day, my gas tank wears the patch from this adventure.</p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/Mark-Hass-New-Mexico.png" alt="" width="300" /><img src="/images/uploaded/blog/Mark-Hass-Pecos.png" alt="" width="300" /></p> <p>Other stories significant to the car's condition you ask? I fell asleep on the enchanted trail outside Albuquerque and smacked a guardrail hard. The car's solid frame took the blow well, but my rear-view mirror flew off and cracked. Every time I look into my rear-view mirror, I still see the crack. Last story- I was driving down Cerrillos road in Santa Fe very early in the morning. A 1969 Pontiac GTO ran a red light and I T-boned it. Again, my Grand Am came through ok, but it needed a new hood. The only hood the Pontiac dealer in Albuquerque had was the hood with the vents. Damn the luck. The GTO was sadly decimated.</p> <p>The car served me well while I served twenty years in the Navy. The pictures are of me at Officer Candidate School (OCS) in 1979 at NAS Pensacola. Shortly after school, I painted the car black. The car could not get any cooler!</p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/blog/Mark-Hass-Nay-1.png" alt="" width="200" /><img src="/images/uploaded/blog/Mark-Hass-2.png" alt="" width="200" /><img src="/images/uploaded/blog/Mark-Hass-Navy-3.png" alt="" width="200" /></p> <p>In the mid-nineties, I decided to paint the car white. Not as cool as black, but I still loved my Grand Am. At over 200,000 miles on the motor, my Grand Am showed no signs of slowing up. With pride, it could still deliver a second gear scratch. I guess changing the oil frequently works for keeping the motor healthy. The car moved to San Diego in 1982.</p> <p>In 1998, I decided to perform a frame-off restoration and rebuild the motor. All mechanical parts were rebuilt as well as all fluid lines. The car was nearly 80 percent complete. I was getting very anxious to drive the car again. Attached are photos during the frame off restoration.</p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/blog/Mark-Hass-frame-off-restoration-1.png" alt="" width="200" /><img src="/images/uploaded/blog/Mark-Hass-frame-off-restoration-2.png" alt="" width="200" /><img src="/images/uploaded/blog/Mark-Hass-frame-off-restoration-3.png" alt="" width="200" /></p> <p>I returned from an extended Navy deployment. My new girlfriend was anxious to see my Grand Am, so we went to the body shop to see it. Hopefully, the car was completed. To our horror, the shop was abandoned and there was no sign of my car, as well as the other classic muscle cars that were also in restoration. None of the neighboring stores knew where the cars went. The sheriff’s department was not any help. My Grand Am was gone!</p> <p>I married this girlfriend and was living a great life. When I was approaching my 55<sup>th</sup> birthday, I decided I was going to spend much time looking for my Grand Am. I canvased many neighborhood auto body shops in East San Diego. Bingo, I found the shop owner working at a small body shop.</p> <p>Needless to say, he was surprised I found him after 13 years. Tom, the man who stole my car, told me he had my car and its parts in storage all these years. He had a terrible excuse that he could not contact me by phone. To this day, I still have the same phone number. You can see I keep things for a long time. The owner of the body shop had much sympathy for me and offered me one of his bays.</p> <p>For Tom, storing the car all those years was partially true. I met him at Ace towing in east San Diego to see my car. The Ace owner, Tom, and I walked to a remote area in the desert lot and found my car. Attached are the pictures of my Grand Am in the wrecking yard. The owner told me Tom had run out to put the blue tarp on before I arrived. As you can see, the car was in horrible condition. I was saddened as I thought I was saying goodbye to my Grand Am. Tom had not paid any fees. I was amazed the owner kept the car. Thirteen years of storage fees added up to thousands of dollars.</p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/blog/2010 Mar Misc Grand am Mars Park 008.jpg" alt="" width="200" /><img src="/images/uploaded/blog/June 12 2010 Camera choir GA more 060.jpg" alt="" width="200" /><img src="/images/uploaded/blog/June 12 2010 Camera choir GA more 088.jpg" alt="" width="200" /></p> <p>I decided to go for it. I wanted my car. I stuck a deal to have the car delivered to the body shop for $1800. The owner made Tom perform much of the work after hours. And for free.</p> <p>The motor that was rebuilt was now rusted solid. My motor was on the limits of not being able to be rebuilt. However, it made it back to my Grand Am. Attached are pictures after it was painted. I decided to restore my Grand Am the way I found it in the showroom. That was late 2011. I worked on the car until late 2013.</p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/blog/Grand Am Restoration May 2010 033.jpg" alt="" width="300" /><img src="/images/uploaded/blog/Grand Am Restoration May 2010 032.jpg" alt="" width="300" /></p> <p>You can get every part for a Pontiac A body for 1972 and prior. Obtaining parts for my Grand Am took years of phone calls and internet search. The great news is that Tom had most of my interior parts at an indoor storage facility.</p> <p>During this 2<sup>nd</sup> restoration, I ran out of money and time and the car sat in my garage for 6 years. Reenergized with money and time, about a year ago I decided to finish the car. Last June, I drove the car for the first time since 1998. Oh yeah! Baby is back! My car’s nickname from my Navy buds was the “Mag.” Short for magic. The car really is magic. I loved to hear, “How’s the Mag doing?”</p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/blog/Grand Am 1 Paint.jpg" alt="" width="300" /><img src="/images/uploaded/blog/003.JPG" alt="" width="300" /></p> <p>I was delighted to find <a href="https://www.originalair.com/gm-restoration-info">Classic Air to restore my air conditioning system</a>. I look forward to installing the system when the restoration of my AC parts is completed. I also look forward to working with their technical department folks to help me with the install. They are super.</p> <p>Attached are pictures of my car in front of my house. I have to finish the wheels, emblems, and chrome. My goal is to take a road trip back to the places significant to the car's past as well as visiting friends that have “history” with the car. I also plan on attending car shows when the care is complete.</p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/blog/thumbnail_image0.jpg" alt="" width="249" height="187" /><img src="/images/uploaded/blog/thumbnail_image1.jpg" alt="" width="249" height="187" /><img src="/images/uploaded/blog/thumbnail_image2.jpg" alt="" width="140" height="187" /></p> <p>I have to install the interior panels of which I have. Plus, there is much detail work like getting the clock to run, the horns to work, or the windshield wipers and washers to operate. The electrical system was a nightmare to restore with all the damage to the fuse boxes and wiring. It all works and with nearly all of the original wiring.</p> <p>I am truly amazed I still have this car. My daughter is 17 and she is discovering how great it is to have this car in the family. She is probably the only student in her school that knows what a carburetor is and has actually seen one get rebuilt and working. Not to mention hear the secondaries open and feel the car lurch.</p>urn:store:1:blog:post:83https://www.originalair.com/octobers-cool-ride-jim-and-dianas-custom-nova-featuring-mike-lavalleeOctober’s Cool Ride: Jim and Diana’s Custom Nova Featuring Mike LaVallee<p>We are very excited to show off a cool custom Nova owned by Jim and Diana Workman. This car has a <a href="https://www.alienenclosures.com/shop/68-72-nova-trunk-lid-cover-solid/" target="_blank" data-cke-saved-href="https://www.alienenclosures.com/shop/68-72-nova-trunk-lid-cover-solid/">solid deck lid cover</a>. We love to see one upholstered this way that really compliments a beautiful car. This one is unique because it features not only custom stitching, but custom air-brushing by the one and only Mike LaVallee. It is when we received these photos that we learned of Mike's passing. </p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/blog/116909312_1222432508101727_54264001593611010_n.jpg" alt="" width="300" /><img src="/images/uploaded/blog/116431933_1222432588101719_6038569693342527245_n.jpg" alt="" width="300" /></p> <h2 style="text-align: center;">A Short History on Mike LeValee</h2> <p style="text-align: left;">Mike began drawing dinosaurs at the age of two. Later while in high school and moving on to sketching other animals, one of his teachers recommended he enter a national art competition. After winning, he decided to pursue a career in art and attended Butera School of Art in Boston. </p> <p>Initially, he learned how to paint signs. He got a job at a sign-producing company and stayed there for about a year. LeVallee decided the job wasn’t for him and instead set up shop in his parents garage. There, he learned airbrushing from his father who used it for his taxidermy business. Instead of using dead fish as a canvas, Mark chose motorcycles and cars.</p> <p>A friend saw his talent and suggested he ply his new trade at the Laconia motorcycle rally up in New Hampshire. He ended up making more money in that single weekend than an entire month of working in the sign business. </p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/116582474_1222432328101745_6334043104800021939_n.jpg" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p style="text-align: left;">The motorcycle rally was the spark LeVallee needed to find his success in the airbrushing business. He traveled like a gypsy from show to show until he eventually settled down in Washington State. While attending a show in Seattle, Mark came up to a black ’32 Roadster. He mentioned to the guy working underneath the car that he could fix the scratch for 20 bucks. Mark fixed the scratch the next morning and met the owner of the car who was none other than Chip Foose of Foose Design.</p> <p style="text-align: left;">Foose was so interested in LeVallee’s work he flew him down to Southern California where Mark painted his flames on the side of a ’51 black Chevy pickup. It was later featured on the cover of Classic Truck Magazine turning LeVallee’s work into an international sensation. </p> <p>Mike passed away April14th, 2020 from complications of a stroke at 60 years old. Mark’s airbrushing techniques have changed the automotive industry. He called his technique True Fire which as since become the industry standard for airbrushed flames. </p> <p>See some of Mike’s artistic process here: </p> <p><iframe style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/2GwR974k8os" width="560" height="315" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen="allowfullscreen"></iframe> </p>urn:store:1:blog:post:82https://www.originalair.com/the-risk-of-rust-a-history-on-how-automakers-fought-corrosionThe Risk of Rust: A History on How Automakers Fought Corrosion<p>Those of you who live in cold, snowy, or hot moist climates know the menace of rust. Although your classic is more at risk in those areas, corrosion tends to eventually attack vintage vehicles at some point. However, the history of car rust is not so simple. Modern cars today can withstand rust better due to a combination of advancements in design, manufacturing, engineering, and implementing anti-rust plans.</p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/rusty-dodge.jpg" alt="" width="600" /></p> <h2>Thick Skin and Steel Frames</h2> <p>Galvanization is a chemical process that fights rust. Sounds like the perfect solution for cars, right? Wrong. Even though the Brooklyn bridge used over 15,000 miles of the galvanized wire during construction in 1883, car companies didn’t catch on. Instead, up until the 1950s, the steel used to build cars was much thicker than today. Even though rust could still affect thick steel, it took a long time to ultimately corrode.</p> <h2>Cult of Consumerism</h2> <p>Another crude solution to rust is to not let your car age. In addition to thick steel frames, 1950’s post-war American convinced consumers that they needed a new car every other year. Car companies would frequently introduce new body styles during that same time, making the appeal of a brand-new car too good to pass up. </p> <h2>Finally, Zinc </h2> <p>While the general American population was fine with swapping cars like hot potatoes, overseas felt differently. And we’re not talking Europe. Japan is an island nation that habitually fights moisture from the sea air. As Japan became a new automotive powerhouse, companies like GM, Chrysler, and Ford began taking on anti-corrosion technology. Enter galvanization.</p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/rusty-mustang.jpg" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p>Rust happens when metal gives up its electrons to another piece of metal willing to receive it. Typically, a liquid, otherwise known as an electrode, facilitates this transfer. With cars, steel gives up its electron to water, road salt, and carbon dioxide from the atmosphere.</p> <p>Galvanization is the process of coating steel with zinc to avoid corrosion and rust. In other words, it halts the chemical process of rust from occurring by keeping the metal’s electrons in place and instead, sacrificing its own.</p> <h2>Glass Bones and the Unibody</h2> <p>After American companies began adopting galvanization, they also started simplifying designs. This decision was partially an imitation to Japanese designs, so moisture can’t get into smaller parts of the car. </p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/blog/blue-dodge.jpg" alt="" width="600" /></p> <h2>Anti-Rust Treatments </h2> <p>As the ’90s came around, so did multi-year corrosion warranties. Although many different and effective anti-rust treatments exist, none can guarantee zero perforation. The easiest and safest way to avoid the risk of rust is to take care of your classic. Keep it away from salt. Remember to always park it in a dry yet ventilated area. And as always, store it in a safe spot for winter.</p>urn:store:1:blog:post:81https://www.originalair.com/will-you-survive-the-storm-prepping-for-hurricane-seasonWill You Survive the Storm? Prepping for Hurricane Season<p>Original Air is located on the Gulf Coast of Tampa, FL, so we know a thing or two about hurricanes. We’ve experienced more than a few close calls with Irma, Dorian, Laura; you name it, we’ve dodged it. However, luck can’t last forever. And many weren’t so fortunate. In 2017, hurricane Harvey and Irma wrecked nearly 1.4 million cars. If you own a classic and put countless hours into it, always be prepared.</p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/hurricane-dodge.png" alt="" width="600" /></p> <h2>Collector Insurance</h2> <p><span data-preserver-spaces="true">The best piece of advice we can offer you when it comes to your classic and hurricanes is protecting yourself with the right insurance. Make sure you have the right plan to cover all your collector car needs. Most standard auto insurances will only pay the cash value of the classic. This may land you thousands of dollars below the actual market value.</span></p> <p><span data-preserver-spaces="true">Years ago, after losing about a thousand classics post-Katrina and Rita, the collector car business for insurance changed. Some insurance companies wrote </span><a class="editor-rtfLink" href="https://www.autoweek.com/news/a2084271/ill-winds-change-collector-car-world-and-insurers-were-rocked-hurricane-season/" target="_blank"><span data-preserver-spaces="true">about 75% of their claims were a total loss</span></a><span data-preserver-spaces="true">.</span></p> <p><span data-preserver-spaces="true">To qualify as a classic, in general, the car must be:</span></p> <ul> <li><span data-preserver-spaces="true">At least 25-30 years old</span></li> <li><span data-preserver-spaces="true">A modified car or hotrod</span></li> <li><span data-preserver-spaces="true">Classic trucks</span></li> <li><span data-preserver-spaces="true">Muscle cars</span></li> <li><span data-preserver-spaces="true">Exotic or luxury</span></li> <li><span data-preserver-spaces="true">In limited use</span></li> <li><span data-preserver-spaces="true">Secured in storage</span></li> <li><span data-preserver-spaces="true">Attend car shows and meetings</span></li> <li><span data-preserver-spaces="true">For the owner to hold a clean driving record</span></li> </ul> <h3><em>Classic Car Policies</em></h3> <p><span data-preserver-spaces="true">Each classic is unique, so there is no standard value for specific types. You and your insurer will have to agree on the value of the vehicle. If you already got insurance and have taken care of your classic over the years, know your value might have increased. Remember to speak about adjusting the amount as time goes on. Depending on the state, some types of insurances can also cover a portion of expenses needed to evacuate.</span></p> <h2>Evacuating with a Classic</h2> <p><span data-preserver-spaces="true">If your classic is your daily ride or you think it’s best to bring it with you, make sure it’s ready for the distance. Read our </span><a class="editor-rtfLink" href="https://www.originalair.com/classic-car-tips-for-the-summer-season" target="_blank"><span data-preserver-spaces="true">tips on the proper classic maintenance</span></a><span data-preserver-spaces="true"> before taking it out on the road. More than likely, you’ll hit evacuation traffic, so be sure you have everything you need including a </span><a class="editor-rtfLink" href="http://originalair.com/" target="_blank"><span data-preserver-spaces="true">functioning AC</span></a><span data-preserver-spaces="true">.</span></p> <p><span data-preserver-spaces="true">In addition to maintenance, you want to bring a handful of items with you on the road. Bring a roadside emergency kit that includes tire sealant in case of a flat. Add a can of gas as gas stations are notorious for running out of gas during hurricane evacuations. Plus, bring a cigarette lighter-to-USB charger for vintage cars for phone charging. Many classics don’t have an option for phones to connect, so consider getting a Bluetooth speaker.</span></p> <h2>Cars with a garage</h2> <p><span data-preserver-spaces="true">If you have a garage but live in a nasty flood zone, you might be better off with your friend or office garage. If the garage’s structure is weak, it may not last the hurricane and damage your classic even more. Furthermore, many modern houses install flimsy garage doors that break in high winds. Consider finding storm braces.</span></p> <p><span data-preserver-spaces="true">Even if your neighbor has lived in the area for 20 some years and swears it’s never flooded, there’s a first for everything. You can look into car capsules but depending on your budget, you might want to stick with jacks.</span></p> <h2>Cars without a garage</h2> <p><span data-preserver-spaces="true">Simply put, you need some shelter. Check-in with friends, family, and neighbors to see if they’re willing to help you out. If you work at a larger office building with a concrete garage, use that. If you know similar places in the area that won’t tow, use that instead if you don’t have access to a private one. Furthermore, make sure you park above the first floor toward the middle near the walls.</span></p> <p><span data-preserver-spaces="true">If you don’t have access to any garages, find a tall, strong structure away from trees, water, and powerlines. Make sure the area is clean and ideally vacant. You don’t want any projectiles flying into your classic.</span></p> <p><span data-preserver-spaces="true">Once the car is parked, disconnect the battery. Raise it on jack stands if you’re not parked in an upper-level garage. Put on a protective cover and an additional tarp.</span></p> <h2>Be Cool and Help Out</h2> <p><span data-preserver-spaces="true">Lastly, if you see someone in need, lend a hand. Hurricane season can be challenging but coming together as a community can make the difference. This guy saved a stranger’s Mazda RX-7 from tropical storm Cristobal’s floodwaters. The water would’ve ruined it entirely if not for the heroism of someone with good taste in cars. Be more like him.</span></p> <p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/images/uploaded/blog/FD-Mazda-RX-7-saved-from-flood-03.jpg" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p><span data-preserver-spaces="true">Read the </span><a class="editor-rtfLink" href="https://www.motortrend.com/news/mazda-rx-7-fd-tropical-storm-cristobal-flood-hero/" target="_blank"><span data-preserver-spaces="true">full story here</span></a><span data-preserver-spaces="true">.</span></p>urn:store:1:blog:post:80https://www.originalair.com/septembers-cool-ride-marks-1967-oldsmobile-toronado-495September's Cool Ride: Mark's 1967 Oldsmobile Toronado 495<p>I bought the car five years ago. It was a heat-only car but here in Florida, an A/C is essential. The car is now a resto-mod. The front discs are from a 70 Toronado. The parts and pieces are from three Toronados in order to make one new A/C system. We also rebuilt a 425 transmission with a switch pitch converter. The engine was bored and stroked to a 495 cc (8.11 liters) with a 12:1 compression.</p> <p>The Original Air parts are the<a href="https://www.originalair.com/gm-condensers"> condenser</a>, <a href="https://www.originalair.com/filter-driers-accumulators">drier,</a> and<a href="https://www.originalair.com/gm-evaporators"> evaporator.</a></p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/67-Oldsmobile.png" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/67-oldsmobile-full.png" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/67-oldsmobile-inside.png" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/67-oldsmobile-back.png" alt="" width="600" /></p>urn:store:1:blog:post:79https://www.originalair.com/are-you-holding-on-to-these-parts-dontAre You Holding on to These Parts? Don't<p>If you’re like us, you’ve worked on several restored and modified car projects. Chances are you’ve collected your fair share of car parts, and they aren’t cheap. While you hate to throw away something you may need or at the very least costs an arm and a leg, space is an issue. It may be so much of a problem that space has become just as valuable as a garage filled with old parts.</p> <p>In other words, if you or your family are suffering from a parts hoard, you have options. Your first impulse might be to sell it all but face it; that could take months. Maybe even years. On the other hand, your significant other might want to rent a dumpster and get rid of it all. However, that’s not going to work either. The idea that someone somewhere might be willing to pay for that old muffler is just too good to pass up. All in all, the best approach we can recommend is coming out of a hoard with a clean space and make a pretty penny or two. </p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/old-car-parts.png" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p>Easier said than done. Ten to 20 percent of car parts may be possible to sell, while the other 80 to 90 aren’t. You’ve got to factor in the time to sort, clean, take photos, describe the part, find a way to advertise it, pack it up and ship it out. Of course, you can always give parts away or donate them, but that’s still a lot of work without the pretty penny. Concentrate on parts that you know has monetary value while considering their condition and how easy it is to clean them up and ship them out.</p> <p>Here’s Original Air’s list to help out your hoard:</p> <h2>Sell (if it is a rebuildable core or not in reproduction):</h2> <ul> <li><a href="/sell">POA valves</a> - sell us your old POA valves <a href="/sell">here</a></li> <li>STV Valves</li> <li>VIR units</li> <li>Compressors</li> <li>Some expansion valves</li> <li>Hose/manifold assemblies (in not in reproduction)</li> <li>Evaporators (if not in reproduction)</li> <li>Condensers (If not in reproduction)</li> <li>Evaporator housings</li> <li>Compressor brackets &amp; mounts</li> <li>Pulleys &amp; Idlers</li> </ul> <h2>Throw Away or Recycle (if in reproduction or not rebuildable):</h2> <ul> <li>Condensers</li> <li>Evaporators</li> <li>Compressors</li> <li>Valves</li> <li>Hoses/Manifolds</li> </ul>urn:store:1:blog:post:78https://www.originalair.com/augusts-cool-ride-abimaels-1987-chevy-monte-carlo-350August's Cool Ride: Abimael's 1987 Chevy Monte Carlo 350<p>I'm the original owner having bought it in 1987. The off frame restoration was completed in 2012. It's got a ZZ4 crate motor, hooker full-length headers, and blazer front spindles with the disk. It's also got Camaro rear disks, 1/2 inch dual exhaust with flowmasters, cowl induction hood with an air cleaner, dual electric fans, and a full Original Air system. </p> <p>The Original Air components on it are the <a href="https://www.originalair.com/gm-condensers">condenser,</a><a href="https://www.originalair.com/gm-hoses-lines"> hoses</a>, <a href="https://www.originalair.com/compressors-parts">compressor,</a> and <a href="https://www.originalair.com/gm-evaporators">evaporator.</a></p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/reader rides/LoweredStance(Jun2019) (13).jpg" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/reader rides/IMG_20190610_151325454_HDR.jpg" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/reader rides/IMG_20190610_151346329_HDR.jpg" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/reader rides/AsCompleted New System (4).jpg" alt="" width="600" /></p>urn:store:1:blog:post:77https://www.originalair.com/julys-cool-ride-toms-1969-chevrolet-chevelle-396July's Cool Ride: Tom's 1969 Chevrolet Chevelle 396<p>This car has been in my family since 1983. I drove it through high school, took it to prom twice, and raced at the High School Drags at the local drag strip. I drove it through college and on our honeymoon. I drove it more than 100,000 miles with a Maaco paint job and the wrong powertrain.</p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/69 Chevelle.jpeg" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p>The frame-off restoration took over 20 years. The powertrain includes a 396 producing 400 horsepower, an M-20 wide ratio 4-speed, and a 3.55 12 bolt positraction rear axle. My brother completed the body and paint, I did upholstery and wiring, my dad fabricated many parts, and we all, including my wife and 2 sons worked on the assembly.</p> <p>We have a number of air conditioned classic Chevys in our family that have utilized Original Air components in our restoration/134a conversions including a '68 CST K20 PU, '65 Chevelle, 2 '70 Chevelles, and a '72 Chevelle. I knew I wanted to keep the look as original as possible on my '69, so I utilized the Original Air High Efficiency Condenser, Receiver/Drier, half of a barrier hose set (I wanted to keep the factory muffler on the compressor), and a recalibrated POA valve. My brother and I assembled and charged the system and it has provided dependable and comfortable cruising passenger temperatures since completed.</p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/blog/69 Engine.jpeg" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p>The car has earned trophies at many shows and been photographed for commercial projects as well. The car has been with me for 36 plus years and there are no plans for the car to ever leave the family! Thank you for providing quality parts to the classic car restoration community!</p> <h2><span style="font-size: 10pt;">All Original Air Components:</span></h2> <p data-ogsb="white"><span data-ogsc="black"><a href="https://www.originalair.com/ford-condensers">Condenser,</a> <a href="https://www.originalair.com/ford-hoses-lines">h</a></span><a href="https://www.originalair.com/ford-hoses-lines">oses</a>,<a href="https://www.originalair.com/filter-driers-accumulators"> drier,</a><a href="https://www.originalair.com/restoration-gm-expansion-valves"> expansion valve,</a> and <a href="https://www.originalair.com/restoration-gm-poa-valves">recalibrated POA valve.</a></p>urn:store:1:blog:post:76https://www.originalair.com/working-with-graveyard-carzWorking With Graveyard Carz<p class="p1">Graveyard Carz sublets all of their A/C rebuilds with Classic Auto Air. Any rusty, old products in dire straits are sent our way. Everything from the firewall insulation pad to other complicated parts with multiple components are sent back marked, inventoried and in tip-top condition. Check out one of our features on the TV show Graveyard Carz:</p> <p dir="ltr" style="text-align: center;"><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/PXHDgqH8VUQ" width="560" height="315" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen="allowfullscreen"></iframe></p>urn:store:1:blog:post:74https://www.originalair.com/our-favorite-ford-series-featuresOur Favorite Ford Series Features<p>Original Air receives several <a href="/rides">reader ride submissions</a> every month. Unfortunately, we can't pick all of them to feature. So this month, we're consolidating some of our submitted rides that were close to winning. Here are some of our favorite ford series reader rides.</p> <h2>Daniels' 1974 Ford F100, 390</h2> <p>Featuring Orginal Air's compressor and control.</p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/DSC_0930-001.JPG" alt="" width="600" /></p> <h2 style="text-align: left;">Arnie's 1984 Ford F 150, 460</h2> <p style="text-align: left;">Featuring Original Air condenser, hoses, compressor, drier, accumulator, expansion valve, suction valve, and evaporator.</p> <blockquote> <p style="text-align: left;">"Well, at my age it's more about comfort than style. I spent over a year looking for something to complete I could put some of my touches on. It needed to be a pro street, big block, and just a little different. Then I found it. The first thing I did was to look into putting A/C in it. So the call to Original Air, and was set up with a kit that was perfect for my truck. Pulled motor out changed cam, heads, and transmission. Added a gear vendors o d. Rear-end gear. And 6 years later, we take it everywhere. It almost gets more miles than our daily."</p> </blockquote> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/blog/10247467_767752286582610_8603590083240319411_n (1).jpg" alt="" width="600" /></p> <h2 style="text-align: left;">1978 Ford John Wayne Supercab Lariat</h2> <p>One of fewer than 500 produced that year, this historic heavy hauler was offered in highly original, unrestored condition. A copy of the original registration issued to the Roland Harper catering company of which John Wayne was a business partner was included. It has no less than the largest available engine, and the Super Cab packs a 460 CI V-8 backed by an automatic transmission. Power steering and power disc brakes work together with forged twin I-beam suspension for confident road control even on the longest day. Oh, and it included a factory installed Ford AC system.</p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/john-wayne-1.jpg" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/john-wayne-2.jpg" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/john-wayne-3.jpg" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/john-wayne-4.jpg" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p> </p> <p style="text-align: left;">We are always hearing about cool restoration and modified car projects from our customers, and would love to see and share those factory-equipped A/C cars. Fill out our <a href="/rides">Reader Ride form</a> so that you can describe and upload pictures of your ride so that we may share it with our customers worldwide. So get your car cleaned up, grab a camera, and send us your best shots!</p>urn:store:1:blog:post:75https://www.originalair.com/junes-cool-ride-jays-1966-ford-mustang-v8June's Cool Ride: Jay's 1966 Ford Mustang V8<p>I purchased my Candy Apple Red, Parchment interior 1966 Mustang from a 94-year-old lady in Tennessee. She and her husband purchased the car and had it restored in 1995. The Mustang was a trophy-winning car at local car shows from 1995 through 2000.<br /><br />However, the mustang was only driven about 4,000 miles in the past 25 years and spend most of the time parked in a block garage after the restoration. It was starting to show its age when I purchased it. Being an A Code, highly optioned car, my goal is to keep it fairly original. I have spent the past year on renovation work to bring it back up to driving condition, in addition to a complete overhaul of the car, I have added an aftermarket power steering system and rebuilt the factory air conditioning with Original Air components, including the evaporator coil, expansion valve, Sanden compressor, hoses, dryer, and condenser.</p> <p>Which Original Air components do you have in your car? · <a href="https://www.originalair.com/condensers-parts">Condenser</a> · <a href="https://www.originalair.com/ford-hoses-lines">Hoses</a> · <a href="https://www.originalair.com/replacements">Compressor</a> · <a href="https://www.originalair.com/filter-driers-accumulators">Drier ·</a> <a href="https://www.originalair.com/restoration-gm-expansion-valves">Expansion Valve</a></p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/blog/BC142741-EC57-4C67-8C9A-86E06ECC03BB.jpeg" alt="" width="400" /></p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/blog/D2D2F970-556B-4A74-AD70-A51889DA0A3A.jpeg" alt="" width="400" /></p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/blog/33FA301C-093B-4D6B-B47E-41D31523FAE9.jpeg" alt="" width="400" /></p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/blog/029ACF2E-84C9-4910-91C4-BBE60E5ED2B4.jpeg" alt="" width="400" /></p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/blog/1A85A3DC-EBCB-47E4-9D4F-AE2E94EE2BF8.jpeg" alt="" width="400" /></p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/blog/5CFBFF73-8FC0-4DF8-8726-4D24F1EA2D94.jpeg" alt="" width="400" /></p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/blog/7779F094-87A2-421E-8C99-7E4EC46B6DC6.jpeg" alt="" width="400" /></p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/blog/9B47BAC7-14E1-4BC6-8726-E74B8609DCBE.jpeg" alt="" width="400" /></p>urn:store:1:blog:post:72https://www.originalair.com/8-facts-on-the-history-of-ford-f-1508 Facts on the History of Ford F-Series<p><span id="docs-internal-guid-18a595a0-7fff-3cc4-bc88-7ef68c71d327">Classic car debates can get heated, but this one is for sure: The Ford F-series is the heavyweight champion of American roads. Both incredibly essential and undisputedly popular, the F-150 has topped the sales charts for over 35 years. Here are some interesting facts about the series American classics.</span></p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/hugh-mccann-uO3LFxRhVLI-unsplash (2).jpg" alt="" width="600" /></p> <h2 dir="ltr">The Ford F-1 Debuted in 1948</h2> <p dir="ltr">Almost instantly, the F-150’s grandfather, the Ford F-1 became an American hit among farmers and small business owners. Many of those farmers use it for hauling and transportation purposes. The first F-Series introduced eight levels of trucks: F-1 for the half-ton, F-2 for the three-quarter-ton, and up to the F-7 and F-8 for heavy-duty.</p> <h2 dir="ltr">Ford Manufactured Versions in Brazil</h2> <p>In 1962, Ford and Sulamericana teamed up to produce trucks in Brazilian factories. These were built on the Ford F-series frame but looked very different than the trucks we’re used to seeing. Some of these versions included the Monaco and GB Fly which were combinations of Brazilian car designs with the functionality of Ford trucks.</p> <h2>The F-150 Moniker Debuted in 1975</h2> <p>In 1975, the name F-150 was coined when Ford named their intermediate model. The lighter F-100 and the heavier F-250 were also introduced that same year, but the intermediate F-150 is what stuck. Since 1975, the F-150 has become the best-selling truck in history. </p> <h2 dir="ltr">The Ford Bumper Lasted for 20 Years</h2> <p>The Ford bumper remains a statement part of the classic truck. First produced in 1959, they were so much of a hit that Ford kept producing the same version for the next 20 years. It was easy to find replacements for trucks coming in either chrome or painted to match the body.</p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/blog/ford f150 bumper.jpg" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p style="text-align: center;"> </p> <h2 dir="ltr">The Unibody was the Worst</h2> <p dir="ltr">Sometimes taking risks work, and other times they don’t. The unibody is a prime example of when they don’t. In 1961, Ford decided to try something new by making the truck’s cab and bed into a single piece. Ford aimed for a win-win situation; they introduced a clean, new design while cutting down the costs of production time.</p> <p dir="ltr">Ford trucks built a reputation for resilience. So when people started using trucks for their main purpose like putting heavy items in the back, there were some issues. The doors began popping open all on their own. Sometimes they would never shut due to the bed’s irreversible damage. Needless to say, that was the end of the unibody.</p> <h2 dir="ltr">Ford Offered a Harley-Davidson Edition</h2> <p dir="ltr">Harley-Davidson and Ford teamed up in the later 1990s to earlier 2000s to offer a motorcycle edition of the Ford F-150. Decorated in chrome trim and black leather, it’s difficult to name two better American vehicle brands. In fact, most recently, Harley-Davidson and Tuscany Motor Co. collaborated to build an all-new custom Ford F-150 Harley-Davidson edition pickup truck for the 2019 model year.</p> <h2 dir="ltr">Hennessey Motorsports' F-150 is the Most Expensive</h2> <p dir="ltr">Starting at $349,000, the most expensive F-150 is the Hennessey Motorsports' F-150 VelociRaptor 6x6. It includes the base 2017 – 2020 Raptor 4-door truck, 6X6 locking rear axles, upgraded Fox suspension, upgraded 20-inch wheels and off-road tires, special front and rear bumpers, rollbar and LED lights. The 600+ HP upgrade includes upgraded twin turbochargers, stainless steel exhaust modifications, upgraded front mounted air to air intercooler and plumbing and re-tuned factory computer. There are only about 100 of these made.</p> <p dir="ltr">Watch Hennessey Motosports’ F150 race a GT350:</p> <p dir="ltr" style="text-align: center;"><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/BG_gexqc1N0" width="560" height="315" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen="allowfullscreen"></iframe></p> <p dir="ltr" style="text-align: center;"> </p> <h2 dir="ltr">It was Walmart’s Owner’s Car of Choice</h2> <p dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;">In 1979, Walmart founder Sam Walton purchased a brand new sixth-generation F-150. Since then, he drove it almost every day until his death in 1992. For a period of time, Walton was the richest man in the United States. Walton was once asked why the truck was his car of choice after he made his first billions. Walton famously responded saying, “What am I supposed to haul my dogs around in, a Rolls-Royce?” His truck is currently on display in a Walmart museum in Bentonville, Arkansas.</p> <p dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;">No matter who you are, the world over agrees that the F-150 is one of the most legendary American cars out there. If you’re looking to be cool and stay cool when the heat is on, Original Air has you covered for your original AC kits. Shop some of our most popular Ford Upgrade Kits</p> <ul> <li dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;"><a href="https://www.originalair.com/76-79-ford-f-series-bronco-hipo-ac-engine-compartment-upgrade-kit">76-79 F-Series Truck/Bronco A/C Upgrade Kit STAGE-2</a></li> <li dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;"><a href="https://www.originalair.com/76-79-f-series-truckbronco-ac-upgrade-kit-stage-3">73-79 F-Series Truck/Bronco A/C Upgrade Kit STAGE-3</a></li> <li dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;"><a href="https://www.originalair.com/76-79-ford-f-series-bronco-hipo-ac-rotary-compressor-upgrade-kit">76-79 F-Series Truck/78-79 Bronco AC Compressor Kit V8 STAGE-1</a> </li> </ul>urn:store:1:blog:post:73https://www.originalair.com/mays-cool-ride-stevens-1980-chevrolet-camaro-z28-350May's Cool Ride: Steven's 1980 Chevrolet Camaro Z28 350<p>In the spring of 1980, I was 4-years-old and already had a love for cars. One sunny day, I was waiting for my dad in his truck across the street from Big Horn Chevrolet in my hometown of Worland, Wyoming. Parked on the street in front of the dealership was a car transport trailer on which I spotted a brand-new white 1980 Camaro Z28. It had T-tops and three-tone charcoal striping. It looked fast, just sitting there.</p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/blog/1980 Z28_7.jpg" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p>When my dad got back in the truck, I vividly recall saying, "Look at that car, Dad! Isn't that cool?!" He agreed and walked across the street to check it out.</p> <p>What I didn't know at the time was that he and my mom had ordered it new from the factory. Beginning on July 1, 1980, that Z28 became our family car. For the next eight and a half years, we took it to school and the grocery store, as well as on family trips. It was always garaged, and it stayed in remarkable condition. But in November 1988, my parents decided it was time to trade it in on something more practical. I was extremely disappointed as I watched my dad drive away in it for the last time, taking it to the dealership.</p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/blog/1980 Z28_9.jpg" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p>It only took one day before the car was sold to a new owner. A local farmer bought it for his son, who drove it for a couple of years in high school. When he left for college, he kept it garaged at home and seldom drove it. In the spring of 2010, I contacted him and told him the story of me seeing it that first day, sharing some of my other memories of that car. To my amazement and joy, he agreed to sell the car to me. On July 10, 2010–almost exactly 30 years to the day from when my parents took ownership–I became the Z28's third owner.</p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/blog/1980 Z28_10.jpg" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p>The car just turned 40 years old and is still in amazing condition. It has 80,998 miles on it and has never been wrecked. The paint and decals are all original and shine like new. Except for the restored gauges and a ShiftWorks kit, the black cloth interior is all original and doesn't have a single crack or tear anywhere. I have the original warranty paperwork with my dad's information on it, as well as a copy of the dealer invoice and window sticker and build sheet. While the second owner had this car, he replaced the engine with a new GM 350 V-8. Since it is no longer numbers-matching, I decided to rebuild the engine to give it more power to go with its great looks, which I did with help from my then-6-year old son and a friend. It is still a 350, but now makes 330 hp and 365-lbs.ft. of torque at the rear wheels. It contains Original Air hoses and compressor.</p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/blog/1980 Z28_2.jpg" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p>The car is, and will remain, "Dad's Z28." My son loves to work on it with me, go for rides, as well as take it to drive nights and car shows.  The car from my childhood is once again part of the family, making memories that will last a lifetime!</p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/blog/1980 Z28_5.jpg" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p style="text-align: left;">Original Air components on this car are hoses and compressor. See Original Air's <a href="https://www.originalair.com/77-81-camaro-134a-rotary-compressor-upgrade-kit-stage-1">Update Kit for a 77-81 Camaro here</a>.</p>urn:store:1:blog:post:69https://www.originalair.com/6-facts-you-didnt-know-about-the-firebird6 Facts You Didn’t Know About the Firebird<p dir="ltr">The Firebird embodies American muscle. Many still rave about the impact these classics had in earlier times. Even though they’ve been around for half a century, there’s no end in sight when it comes to car enthusiasts’ love for this particular classic. We work with all kinds of Firebird builds to bring you the coolest AC for your ride. But you may be surprised by these facts you didn't know about the Pontiac Firebird.</p> <p dir="ltr" style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/blog/1979-Black-Pontiac-Firebird.jpg" alt="" width="600" /></p> <h2 dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;">1. John DeLorean wasn’t on board</h2> <p dir="ltr">The Pontiac king had his doubts about the Firebird, at first. Before his name starred in the classic sci-fi Back to the Future, DeLorean worked as an engineer for Pontiac. They wanted him to create a car that could compete with the Mustang and Camaro. Instead, he thought Pontiac needed a two-seater sports car called the Banshee. He eventually gave in and produced the first Firebird six months after the Camaro in 1967. Although six months late to the game, the Firebird obviously was a hit.</p> <h2 dir="ltr">2. 1st WS6</h2> <p dir="ltr">As an upgrade to the 1978 Trans Am’s suspension, Pontiac produced the first WS6 Performance Package. Most notably, the package contained 15x8 Snowflake rims and a larger sway bar giving the Firebird a wider appearance. It ranged between $251 and $324 depending on if you want with the additional W72 package. In total, it contained a larger sway bar, 15x8 snowflake rims, tighter steering box gear ratio, and GR70-15 raised white letter Good Year Polysteel Radials. In 1979, the package contained the first four-wheel disc brakes for Firebirds.</p> <h2 dir="ltr">3. 1st screaming chicken</h2> <p dir="ltr">Bill Porter and Norm Inouye created the infamous decal in 1970. If this makes you scratch your head, it’s because they held off using it. John Schinella, another Pontiac designer, saw the decal and started pressing management to use it. Finally, in 1973, they made it an add-on costing $55 and became the car’s signature feature through 1981 and again from 1985-1987 on the third generation Trans-Am.</p> <p dir="ltr" style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/blog/1980-black-pontiac-firebird-trans-am-with-screaming-chicken.jpg" alt="" width="600" /></p> <h2 dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;">4. It starred in Smokey and the Bandit</h2> <p dir="ltr">After Smokey and the Bandit debuted in 1977, it started picking up even more steam (or smoke). If you know your stuff, you might notice that the car is a mashup of two different Firebird models. The car is mostly a 1976 Firebird Trans Am but replaced the front with a 1977 model. The custom decals on the vehicle also caused Pontiac’s demand to skyrocket. However, soon after the frenzy died down, so did the need for the car altogether.</p> <h2 dir="ltr">5. Best Firebird horsepower/torque ratings</h2> <p dir="ltr">No Firebird ever exceeded 400 horsepower. In fact, unlike it’s Chevy competitor, it didn’t even come close. That being said, the most powerful Firebirds of all time were the 1969 and ‘70 Trans Ams with the Ram Air IV engine option. The 400 cubic inch V8 maxes out at 430 lb-ft of torque at 3,700 Rpm and 345 hp at 5,400 Rpm.</p> <h2 dir="ltr">6. 1st Buick engine</h2> <p dir="ltr">A less rare Firebird fact you may know is that in 1989 500 Pace Car Trans Am used a Buick engine. However, they didn’t use just any Buick engine. It was the turbocharger 3.8 liter V-6 featured in the GNX and Grand National. It maxed out just under 250 horsepower and 340 lb-ft making the Pace Care, up until that point, the quickest Firebird ever sold. </p>urn:store:1:blog:post:70https://www.originalair.com/aprils-cool-ride-phils-1973-pontiac-grand-prix-400April's Cool Ride: Phil's 1973 Pontiac Grand Prix 400<p>The vehicle belonged to my father-in-law. He passed away and left the vehicle to me. It is all original. He was a machinist by trade. He removed the wheel opening moldings because he said it's a haven for rust. It has 72000 miles and works. He installed a Bose CD player into the glove box.</p> <p>The Original Air components are condenser, hoses, compressor, switch, drier, accumulator, expansion valve, suction valve, evaporator and control.</p> <p style="text-align: center;"> </p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img style="undefined" src="/images/uploaded/blog/1973-Pontiac-Grand-Prix-400-1.jpg" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/blog/1973-Pontiac-Grand-Prix-400-2.jpg" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/blog/1973-Pontiac-Grand-Prix-400-3.jpg" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/blog/1973-Pontiac-Grand-Prix-400-4.jpg" alt="" width="600" /></p>urn:store:1:blog:post:71https://www.originalair.com/original-air-and-alien-enclosures-covid-19-messageOriginal Air and Alien Enclosure's COVID-19 Message<p>Here at Original Air and <a href="https://www.alienenclosures.com/">Alien Enclosures</a>, we are committed to serving our customers while keeping our team safe and responsible during this uncharted time of uncertainty. We are currently open to serve you and the automotive restoration community and will continue as long as we can do it safely and responsibly. Our team has implemented the CDC guidelines and heightened sanitation protocols, as we are still committed to customer service and providing support for your project.</p> <p>With stay-at-home orders active in almost every state, there are limited options for enjoyment. This is a great opportunity to begin, continue, or rekindle your passion and excitement for your car or truck project. With many children on extended breaks from school, automotive repair can even provide an opportunity for practical education and quality time together (and hopefully pass on this passion to the next generation).</p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/blog/older-and-younger-generation.jpg" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p>We will continue to provide the highest level of service possible. Not only will we send what you need right to your door, but we will also be available via email, chat, and phone with our sales and service support.</p> <p>The safety and well-being of our staff and community remain our top priority and will continue to keep you updated as we work towards normalcy.</p> <p>Sincerely,</p> <p><a href="https://www.originalair.com/">Original Air</a> and <a href="https://www.alienenclosures.com/">Alien Enclosures</a></p>urn:store:1:blog:post:68https://www.originalair.com/the-pontiac-beaumont-the-classic-you-never-got-to-driveThe Pontiac Beaumont: The Classic You Never Got to Drive<p dir="ltr">Cars produced everywhere are subject to import/export laws and trade tariffs between countries. Due to levies and fees, some automotive makers in Canada decided to get creative. Some American models were unavailable in Canda, so makers chose to design Canada-only brands that combined certain features and drivetrains. </p> <p dir="ltr" style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/blog/beaumont-1.jpg" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p dir="ltr">Enter the Beaumont SD: a Canadian model based off of the Chevelle SS. The name Beaumont dates back to the early 1960s as a sub-model of Canada’s Acadian. At first, it was largely based on the Chevy II but later adopted the A-body of its American cousin. As of 1966, Beaumont was a Canadian brand all on its own. </p> <p dir="ltr" style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/blog/beaumont-2.jpg" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p dir="ltr">It wasn’t long after that Beaumont began stepping up its performance. It introduced the Beaumont Sports Deluxe or SD with a 396 ci Chevy big-block V8. Note that initially, Acadian had an SD, but it was luxury-based with a six-cylinder rather than performance-based. From ‘66 to ‘68, Beaumont offered a range of six and eight-cylinder engines such as the 350 ci and 327 ci V8s. In about eight years, roughly 72,000 Beaumonts were produced. Even fewer Beaumont SDs were produced, making them the rarest of the GMs. </p> <p dir="ltr" style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/blog/beaumont-3.jpg" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p dir="ltr">You don’t see these too often. A customer of ours built this beautiful 69 Pontiac Beaumont. Below are some photos he shared, including Alien Enclosures’ "Speedster" trunk panel kit in Black with Grey vinyl. What a great way to include a trunk-mounted battery!</p> <p dir="ltr" style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/blog/beaumont-4.jpg" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p> </p>urn:store:1:blog:post:67https://www.originalair.com/marchs-cool-ride-phillips-1965-ford-mustang-289March's Cool Ride: Phillip's 1965 Ford Mustang 289<p>While visiting my sick father in Ohio I saw the car on a lot. A few months later when he passed away, I was in the need of a truck to move momentos to Florida and as I was buying the truck, I commented, "Give me a package deal and I'll take the 65 too". An hour later, I drove it off the lot. The only thing I added was power steering and an Original Air upgrade for the AC. The photo is from a small car show in Enterprise Florida.</p> <p>All Original Air components are the condenser, hoses, compressor, and evaporator.</p> <p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/images/uploaded/65-mustant-289-reader-ride-full.jpg" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/reader rides/65-mustang-298-inside.jpg" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/reader rides/65-mustang-298-under-hood-1.jpg" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/images/uploaded/reader rides/65-mustand-289-under-hood-2.jpg" alt="" width="600" /></p>urn:store:1:blog:post:66https://www.originalair.com/do-kits-work-with-headersDo Kits Work with Headers?<p>We often get asked if our kits will or will not work with headers. Most recently, we got asked, “Will the <a href="https://www.originalair.com/68-corvette-134a-rotary-compressor-upgrade-kit-stage-1">upgrade kit 23-231</a> brackets work with headers?” The not-so-simple answer is: it depends. </p> <p>Not all of our kits mount to the exhaust, typically Chevrolet. They will work with factory exhaust manifolds and most headers. However, you have to consider a number of variables with headers. The thing you need to take into consideration is the tube size and style of the header. Some headers may just not work. Others might require a slight bracket modification to clear the front header tube. </p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/Content/Images/uploaded/blog/LP_Side_View.jpg" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p>The Chevy compressor mounts were designed for either exhaust manifolds or headers. However, Chevy mounts were designed to the engine and not any particular vehicle. There are HUNDREDS of different header designs out there, tailored to each individual vehicle and while the mounts will work with most headers, there is a chance they may need to be modified slightly to fit a particular type of header. Some may take a little more work and in RARE circumstances, they will not work at all. 70s small block Chevy trucks are the only ones we’ve come across. So far.</p> <p>Our Pontiac/Olds/Ford/Mopar mounts do not attach to the exhaust, so there’s never an issue there.</p> <p>To those who have similar questions, we would say unless you are running super-comp headers, you might require slight modification. Otherwise, you should be fine.</p> <p>But if you have any specific questions on headers and our kits, call us at 1-877-233-5523.</p>urn:store:1:blog:post:65https://www.originalair.com/februarys-cool-ride-stephens-1971-ford-machFebruary's Cool Ride: Stephen's 1971 Ford Mach<p>I've had for 49 years. It's at 600,000 miles. Yes, I still drive it. I love this car. PS, PB, air, cruise, automatic C6. Been all over the country. I also rebuilt the original motor in 2001. </p> <p>Original Air components are condenser, hoses, compressor, switch, and control.</p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/Content/Images/uploaded/reader rides/mustang 1 (1).jpg" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/Content/Images/uploaded/reader rides/mustang R (1).jpg" alt="" width="600" /></p>urn:store:1:blog:post:63https://www.originalair.com/a-guide-to-revitalizing-a-vintage-mustang-ac-systemA Guide to Revitalizing a Vintage Mustang A/C System<p dir="ltr"><em><strong><a href="/Content/Images/uploaded/blog/American Car Collector - 66 Mustang 22-102 Install Article (1).pdf">Main article originally published by americancarcollector.com</a><br /></strong></em></p> <p dir="ltr">What you’ll need: 22-102 Stage 2 Performance Upgrade Kit, a/c lower mount bracket, a/c belt, 1966 Mustang</p> <p dir="ltr" style="text-align: center;"><img src="/Content/Images/uploaded/red-66-mustang.jpg" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p>Summertime is the best time to drive you classic. It’s also the hottest. A mid-morning cruise can easily turn into a sauna on wheels. A ride in any classic should be a fun, blast from the past, not a sizzling sweat-fest.</p> <p>Even though it’s currently winter, get the best out of your spring and summer experience. Take the time now to make any adjustments to your a/c system before it gets too hot even to consider looking under the hood. If you want the best experience for you, your grandkids, or significant other, you need to control the temperature with a functioning a/c system.</p> <p>Many ‘60s and ‘70s classics have come with new A/C’s. But chances of them working well or working at all are slim to none. Original Air has conversion kits that can update the original system with R134a refrigerant, lines, hoses, and all other components you need to keep you cool. And no worries, the kits don’t change the look of the original control unit.</p> <p dir="ltr">ACC had gotten a 1966 Mustang with a missing compressor. They ordered our Stage 2 Performance Upgrade Kit. Included are a new rotary compressor and clutch assembly, mounting brackets, all the hoses and fittings required, a high-performance condenser, and a new filter/dryer. Read their original article on their step-by-step guide on how they did it.</p> <p> </p> <p dir="ltr"><a href="/Content/Images/uploaded/blog/American Car Collector - 66 Mustang 22-102 Install Article (1).pdf">Read original American Car Collector Article featuring Original Air’s Stage 2 Performance Kit</a></p> <p> </p>urn:store:1:blog:post:64https://www.originalair.com/januarys-cool-ride-arnies-1984-ford-f150January's Cool Ride: Arnie's 1984 Ford F150<p>I bought this after doing the H R P T 5 times. And not again without A\C. This fit the bill, It had factory air, but nothing but dash controls. So I called Original Air and they sent everything I needed to put air back in. Easy install works great.</p> <p>We have been on the Hot Rod Power Tour 8 times, 5 as a long hauler. But the last 3 with air. I was looking for something to put air conditioning in. My other race car was not an option. But this truck was more than I was looking for. So I called Original Air and told them what I had. I was sent everything needed to install with ease. At my age, a little comfort is so nice. Living in the midwest, the temperature and humidity can get into triple digits. But now we can enjoy cruising in it when we want.</p> <p>After I got the truck, I finished the interior, changed rear gear ratio, and added overdrive in the transmission. I also changed the camshaft, and heads to lower compression ratio. Now it's the cruiser I always wanted.</p> <p>Original Air components are <a href="https://www.originalair.com/ford-condensers">condenser,</a><a href="https://www.originalair.com/ford-hoses-lines"> hoses, </a><a href="https://www.originalair.com/replacements">compressor</a>, <a href="https://www.originalair.com/filter-driers-accumulators">drier,</a> accumulator, <a href="https://www.originalair.com/restoration-gm-expansion-valves">expansion valve,</a> <a href="https://www.originalair.com/valves">suction valve </a>and <a href="https://www.originalair.com/ford-evaporators">evaporator.</a></p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/Content/Images/uploaded/blog/10247467_767752286582610_8603590083240319411_n.jpg" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/Content/Images/uploaded/blog/20180928_193334.jpg" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/Content/Images/uploaded/blog/018.jpg" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/Content/Images/uploaded/blog/555284_3606780647268_1594185019_n.jpg" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/Content/Images/uploaded/blog/thumper motor.jpeg" alt="" width="600" /></p>urn:store:1:blog:post:61https://www.originalair.com/6-ways-to-kill-your-classic6 Ways to Kill Your Classic<p dir="ltr">You’ve taken your classic out enjoying the spring, summer, and fall. But it’s getting close to the holidays, which means winter is more or less here. Those of you in colder temperatures will likely play it safe and store your car. Regardless of whether you choose to use a garage or not, these six things can seriously screw up your classic during the winter:</p> <ol> <li dir="ltr"> <p dir="ltr">Bad storage/bugs/rodents</p> </li> </ol> <p dir="ltr">If you’re in a location that’s got snow, ice, and salt all over the roads, lock it up. Sure, you’d want to drain the fuel and check the antifreeze. But that doesn’t mean you’re good to go when it comes to avoiding issues with storage. If they can take out half the population of Europe, trust us. They can seriously harm your car. Rats or mice can chew through wires easily. A lot of the damage isn’t noticeable until you’re on the side of the road, stranded. They can feast on upholstery and installations as well as make nests infesting them with anything from feces to their offspring. </p> <ol start="2"> <li dir="ltr"> <p dir="ltr">Salts on the road</p> </li> </ol> <p dir="ltr">Not many of us remember chemistry class. Here’s a refresher: sodium chloride + steel = iron oxide. In other words, salt and metal create rust, which can leave a devastating impact on a classic. Driving down a wet, salted road with an unprotected surface like the exhaust, the frame, and suspension parts is an easy way to get rust. And if you’ve got fiberglass, that only does so much. The steel underneath the plastic panels will begin to corrode eventually. Understand water doesn’t equal rust. Some of the best-kept classics have come from areas with heavy rain but little snow. </p> <ol start="3"> <li dir="ltr"> <p dir="ltr">Worn tires</p> </li> </ol> <p dir="ltr">The appearance of good tires can be deceptive. Plus, almost any environment can cause wear and tear. Flat spots, tread wear, UV exposure, dry rot, and age are all common factors. Most classics don’t see any more than 15,000 miles a year. A good rule of thumb is to replace them, at max, every seven years. Even if the tire appears fine, don’t risk it. Blowing a tire can threaten your life, others' lives, and severely damage your car. </p> <p dir="ltr" style="text-align: center;"><img src="/Content/Images/uploaded/Classic-American-Retro-Car.png" alt="" width="650" /></p> <ol start="4"> <li dir="ltr"> <p dir="ltr">Lack of cleaning</p> </li> </ol> <p dir="ltr">Corrosion can set in if you don’t properly clean it. Wash it, polish it, wax it. It may seem unnecessary to some. Why clean a car when you’re about to hide it away in storage? Bird poop, dead bugs, and other dirt are acidic, which eats away the surface. Dirt hidden inside crevices can lead to more long-term damage. Also, check inside the car for any leftover crumbs, wrappers, or trash. You don’t want to give rodents or bugs a home for the winter.</p> <ol start="5"> <li dir="ltr"> <p dir="ltr">Nonuse</p> </li> </ol> <p dir="ltr">Keeping classic cars hidden away like museum artifacts doesn’t help. It’s not an artifact, it’s a car, and cars need to be driven. There’s the common myth that car enthusiasts stow away their classics, which is why their car is intact. Those who do this turn out to have some of the most problems when they’re finally driven. The tires get flat spots, batteries corrode, seals dry out, then they leak, and gas begins to varnish. Remember this saying, “Nonuse is abuse.” The most reliable car is the one that is maintained, and this involves using it.</p> <ol start="6"> <li dir="ltr"> <p dir="ltr">Bad driving</p> </li> </ol> <p dir="ltr">We don’t necessarily mean reckless driving. You can inspect a classic all you want after it’s been sitting. If you don’t start it and let it warm up from the cold, you can do some major damage to the engine. Start the car, let it warm up a bit, drive gently until it reaches normal operating temperature, then drive normally. Don’t forget to engage the A/C compressor to ensure the front seal remains properly lubricated. You wouldn’t want to bring your car out for the first drive of the spring, just to find out you have leaked out all of the refrigerant during the long winter months.</p> <p dir="ltr">With these tips in mind for the winter season, we hope your car restoration project is an enjoyable experience. If you need help finding or installing new items, be sure to contact Original Air for assistance.</p>urn:store:1:blog:post:62https://www.originalair.com/decembers-cool-ride-georges-1980-pontiac-trans-am-1976-pontiac-400December's Cool Ride: George's 1980 Pontiac Trans Am 1976 Pontiac 400<p>I'm the original owner. I purchased it new in March 1980, and sold it in the summer of 1988 after the motor gave out. Found it again in 2015 and bought it back. I put it through 100% restoration and treated it to a rebuilt 1976 Pontiac 400 motor, QA1 suspension, Dakota Digital electronic dash and cruise control, full new interior, Kicker sound system, and of course brand new air conditioning from Original Air. This is my third car with an Original Air AC system. Would love to top off the restoration with an <a href="https://www.alienenclosures.com/">Alien Enclosures trunk kit</a>!</p> <p>Original Air components are condenser, hoses, compressor, drier, accumulator, expansion valve, suction valve and evaporator.</p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/Content/Images/uploaded/transam.jpg" alt="" width="650" /></p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/Content/Images/uploaded/blog/20190630_101346_51.jpg" alt="" width="650" /></p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/Content/Images/uploaded/blog/FB_IMG_1535320898946_51.jpg" alt="" width="650" /></p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/Content/Images/uploaded/blog/FB_IMG_1535328542172_51.jpg" alt="" width="650" /></p> <p style="text-align: left;">We are always hearing about cool restoration and modified car projects from our customers, and would love to see and share those factory equipped A/C cars. <a href="https://www.originalair.com/rides/">We have added a form to our website</a> so that you can describe and upload pictures of your ride so that we may share with our customers worldwide. So get your car cleaned up, grab a camera, and send us your best shots!</p>urn:store:1:blog:post:59https://www.originalair.com/how-important-is-the-proper-oil-chargeHow Important is the Proper Oil Charge?<p>The oil charge doesn’t have to be quite as accurate as the refrigerant charge in your car’s a/c system. However, it is highly important for system longevity and proper cooling.</p> <p><strong>NOT ENOUGH OIL</strong> – A low oil charge is the most common contributor to a seized or knocking compressor. Replacing a compressor is costly enough. Removing contaminants (such as metal shavings) from the rest of you’re a/c system due to a seized or knocking compressor can drastically increase repair and labor costs to do correctly. <a href="https://www.originalair.com/contaminant-the-dirty-word-of-automotive-ac">CLICK HERE FOR MORE INFORMATION ABOUT CONTAMINANTS.</a> Besides the new compressor and filter-drier, the latter of which must be changed any time the system is opened to the atmosphere, any other component that is to be reused will require additional labor to clean internally, or often, replace.</p> <p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/Content/Images/uploaded/blog/oil.jpg" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p><strong>TOO MUCH OIL</strong> – Many people don’t realize too much oil can have a devastating effect on your car’s air-conditioning system. Using refrigerant cans that contain oil and repeated compressor replacements that contain full oil charges without properly compensating are just two of the many ways this can happen. Too much oil in the system not only prevents your a/c from functioning well, but it can also lead to temporary seizing of the compressor. Too much oil in the cylinders can lead to premature failure and permanent seizing of the compressor, among other things.</p> <p><strong>HOW CAN I MAKE SURE I HAVE THE PROPER AMOUNT OF OIL IN MY CAR’S AIR CONDITIONING SYSTEM?</strong> – Unfortunately, there is no magic trick to doing this correctly. But depending upon what part(s) is being serviced, there are some ways to take an educated guess. For example, let’s say your car’s a/c was functioning correctly but was involved in an accident that damaged the condenser. Obviously, the condenser and filter-drier will need to be changed, and these items contain oil within them. Do your best to drain as much of the oil from them, and add that amount of oil back into the system before charging the car. This will help maintain the system’s oil charge integrity, so you don’t have a system oil over or undercharge. In the end, however, there is only one true way to ensure you’ve got an accurate full charge of oil in your car’s a/c system. Drain the compressor and flush each part in the system individually, reinstalling, and started with a full proper charge of refrigerant. <a href="https://www.originalair.com/contaminant-the-dirty-word-of-automotive-ac">CLICK HERE FOR MORE INFORMATION ABOUT CONTAMINANTS</a></p> <p> </p>urn:store:1:blog:post:57https://www.originalair.com/never-convert-r12124a-systems-to-1234yf-heres-whyNever Convert R12/134a Systems to 1234yf. Here's Why:<p>YouTube and other platforms are a great source of information for DIYers. Instead of spending crazy money on a service, in many cases, you can diagnose and fix an array of issues yourself simply by watching a few videos. However, just because it's on the Internet does not mean it’s a good idea. Lately, we have come across some how-to videos on how to convert R12 and 134a systems to take 1234yf, as well as videos of how to convert 1234yf systems to 134a. (The latter mainly due to the astronomically high cost of 1234yf.)</p> <p>While you might be thinking you’re doing the environment a solid, do not do it. It is illegal to convert an R12 or 134a system to 1234yf.</p> <p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/Content/Images/uploaded/blog/August-Blog-Retrofitting.jpg" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p>The industry has no tests or published information to establish cooling performance, reliability, compatibility, or an assessment of chemical damage to a system’s lubricant seals and hoses. And the EPA has approved the new 1234yf refrigerant only for new vehicles with systems designed specifically for its use.</p> <p>This is because R12 and 134a systems are not designed to use flammable refrigerants, which 1234yf is. In fact, Federal Law mandates that using flammable substitutes is strictly prohibited. Before you work on any system that could contain flammable refrigerant, proceed with caution. Electronic leak detectors can ignite if you use it to find leaks in systems holding flammable refrigerants. Plus, parts of recovery or recycling machines could ignite if the machine is being used to recover refrigerant. Even connecting and disconnecting service equipment, a small amount of refrigerant at the service ports might leak. This could also result in a fire if the leak ignites. In any of these situations, both could result in fires or even explosions.</p> <p>In short, if your car was originally designed to use the old R12 or newer 134a, stick with one of them until a reliable time-tested product is offered as a substitute.</p>urn:store:1:blog:post:56https://www.originalair.com/reader-ride-vernons-1970-ford-mustang-351Reader Ride: Vernon's 1970 Ford Mustang 351<p>I've owned it since the late '70s but got serious about restoration in the summer of 2016. It has a new 351 Cleveland with 500 HP, C4 Auto transmission, new interior, new wheels and was in the body show for about six months. It was repainted in January of 2019. I also just charged the AC with R12 last week.</p> <p>Original Air components on the car are the condenser, hoses, drier, accumulator, expansion valve, and suction valve.</p> <p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/Content/Images/uploaded/blog/IMG_0135.jpg" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/Content/Images/uploaded/blog/IMG_0222.jpg" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/Content/Images/uploaded/blog/IMG_0223.jpg" alt="" width="600" /></p>urn:store:1:blog:post:54https://www.originalair.com/classic-car-tips-for-the-summer-seasonClassic Car Tips For the Summer Season<p>If you’ve shielded your beauty from the sleet, snow, wind, rain and whatever else the winter and spring seasons have to offer, congratulations. It’s June, which means summer is finally here. You cannot wait to get your car back on the road; those stares you get driving it around never get old.</p> <p style="text-align: left;">Unfortunately, what does get old is your classic. It’s called that for a reason and before taking it back on the road, always remember to take maintenance into consideration, especially if you haven’t started it in a year or more.</p> <p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/Content/Images/uploaded/bigstock-Restoration-Of-Scratched-Class-266045146.jpg" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p>We typically start with the fluids, including brakes, transmission, windshield, washer, and coolant. Kudos to you if you remember the last time you changed the oil. But water and other fluids can seep into the crankcase anyway, so go ahead and get it replaced. Look under the car for any pools of liquid because drops here and there are normal, but larger puddles are not. </p> <p>Next, check under the hood and try and find anything that may be out of place. Animals like raccoons, cats, and small rodents can crawl into your car, chew wires, and even leave a few surprises. We’ve seen it before. Be sure everything is intact by gently pulling on wires like the spark plugs. Also, check the ignition, distributor cap, and rotor. You might need to change out the air and gas filters as well.</p> <p>Now check the fuel. If it smells like harmful gas, you are going to have a tough time starting. If the car has been sitting for over a year, drain out any fuel that was left and add some fresh stuff. </p> <p style="text-align: left;">Check your wheels for both air pressure and the state of the rubber. Flat spots can develop in as little as a month. To avoid this happening in the future, roll the car forward and back a couple feet. Do this every two or three weeks, or just put the car up on jack stands if not driven very often. </p> <p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/Content/Images/uploaded/blog/bigstock-Classic-Car-Wheels-Care-Profe-297859462.jpg" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p style="text-align: left;">Before looking at the battery, be sure the charging system is in order (alternator has clean feeds and grounds). Next, clean the battery’s posts and terminals, and add distilled water to the cells. If needed, use a 2-10 amp charger to charge the battery after a voltage test.</p> <p style="text-align: left;">After finishing the initial inspection, take it on a quick test drive and do a double-check. If everything is still in order, you should be good to go. Even though it can take an afternoon or two to fully examine a classic that’s been sitting, both you and your car will appreciate it.</p>urn:store:1:blog:post:55https://www.originalair.com/check-out-steves-classic-66-ford-t-bird-390-reader-rideCheck Out Steve's Classic 66 Ford T-Bird 390 Reader Ride<p class="x_form-line">In April 2004, I purchased a 1966 Ford Thunderbird. The good news: I got her for a good price. The bad news: I got her for a good price. She was a #6 rustbucket and required a total restoration. Here’s what I’ve done or had done to the car since I’ve owned her:</p> <ul> <li class="x_form-line">Front/rear suspension rebuild</li> <li class="x_form-line">Transmission rebuild, to include new transmission lines</li> <li class="x_form-line">Carburetor rebuild (x3)</li> <li class="x_form-line">Disk brake rebuild, to include new brake lines</li> <li class="x_form-line">Power steering linkage rebuild</li> <li class="x_form-line">Total interior rebuild (floorboard repair, new carpets, seat covers &amp; foam padding).</li> <li class="x_form-line">Repaint of exterior</li> <li class="x_form-line">Installed new rear window (old one was broken out)</li> <li class="x_form-line">Replaced driver’s side view mirror and new mechanics and added passenger side view mirror</li> <li class="x_form-line">Rebuilt power windows (gears, pulleys – the electric window motors still work though)</li> <li class="x_form-line">Replaced the original fender skirts with stainless steel trim around the rear fenders</li> <li class="x_form-line">Replaced gas tank, fuel pump, and associated lines in-between</li> <li class="x_form-line">Installed new exhaust system</li> <li class="x_form-line">Replaced heater core and all vacuum lines</li> <li class="x_form-line">Replaced the A/C evaporator and condenser, and associated hoses</li> <li class="x_form-line">Rebuilt the original compressor</li> <li class="x_form-line">Re-wired &amp; replaced numerous electrical components</li> <li class="x_form-line">Detailed the entire engine compartment</li> <li class="x_form-line">Detailed trunk to include new trunk liner and added an optional trunk release/open mechanism</li> <li class="x_form-line">Bead-blasted all the wheels, repainted them semi-gloss black and mounted new, period-correct tires on the wheels</li> </ul> <p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/Content/Images/uploaded/blog/oa tbird outside.jpg" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p>Furthermore, in the process of building the interior, I added some rare options like power seats and a reclining passenger seat. Those didn’t originally come on this car as an option, but they were an available option for that year…so I found those on eBay and went with them. I also replaced both door panels with some used ones in good shape.</p> <p>When replacing the original fender skirts with stainless steel trim, I was able to get a set of the optional ’66 hubcaps in decent shape, so the lack of fender skirts complements them nicely.</p> <p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/Content/Images/uploaded/blog/oa tbird hood.jpg" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p>Plus, the car was originally a “Town Landau” (a white vinyl top with a Landau ‘S’ bar on the side pillars). Since the vinyl and chrome trim was long gone, I decided to repaint the exterior with the period-correct “Town Hardtop” option, which was the painted roof with a Thunderbird emblem in place of the Landau “S”. I kept the body the original color (Brittany Blue Metallic), but the roof and side pillars are now painted Wimbledon White. I had to replace both the outer &amp; inner fenders prior to painting, as the ones that were originally on the car had deteriorated into swiss-cheese rust. In addition, I had new weather-stripping installed throughout the car. </p> <p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/Content/Images/uploaded/blog/oa tbird interior.JPG" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p>I nicknamed this car “Liz."  Short for Elizabeth Taylor because in order for her to have all the nice lines and right curves, it cost a lot of money. I parodied Admiral ‘Bull’ Halsey’s response (when he was asked by the Saturday Evening Post so many years ago), why a U.S. warship is referred to as “she."  He replied, “A ship is referred to as ‘she’ because it takes so much time, money and effort to make her look pretty." </p> <p class="x_form-line"><strong>Original Air components on car:</strong> </p> <ul> <li class="x_form-line">Condenser</li> <li class="x_form-line">Hoses</li> </ul>urn:store:1:blog:post:53https://www.originalair.com/nova-conversion-project-part-2Nova Conversion Project Part 2<p style="text-align: left;">Earlier this year, we helped Joe P with the A/C portion of his 1970 Nova small-block to big-block conversion. As many of you know, parts for these cars can be hard to come by, especially for a second-generation big-block Nova!</p> <p>What many people don't realize is that with little to no modification, some first-generation F-body (1967-69 Camaro and Firebird) parts can be interchanged with little or no modifications whatsoever (more details on this coming soon!). Joe P did and was able to get his hands on a 1969 Firebird evaporator unit, which he sent to us for restoration.</p> <p>Upon receipt, we were able to see right away that it had suffered a fair amount of damage in transit. Since we do this kind of repair regularly, and the unit was already going to require some fiberglass modification to convert it for his 1970 Nova, this wasn't a problem. </p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/Content/Images/uploaded/blog/Conversion1.png" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p>As you can see below, this unit has leaves and other debris on the inlet side of the evaporator. This kind of external contamination is a very common source of reduced air volume and system efficiency for evaporators of all makes and models. It essentially renders the blocked portion of the evaporator useless.</p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/Content/Images/uploaded/blog/conversion2.png" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p>Since all Pontiac engines are nearly the same external size as big-block Chevy engines, 1967-69 Firebirds all use the same housing as 1967-69 Camaros with a big-block engine. There is one key difference between the 1969 Firebird unit sent to us and the 1969 Nova that was to be installed: a different resistor mounted in a different location of the inboard (engine side) case half.</p> <p>In this case, we had to close the rectangular opening used by the 1969 Firebird blower resistor (see figure 1) and open a circular one for the 1970 Nova blower resistor. Fortunately, there is a mold impression we can use (see figure 2) to cut our new resistor opening.</p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/Content/Images/uploaded/blog/conversion3.png" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p>Next, we refilled the rectangular opening and refinished it. Due to the fiberglass repairs and modifications, Joe opted to paint the unit black to give it a cleaner look. </p> <p>Additionally, we had to repair the shipping damage to the outboard (fender side) case half. </p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/Content/Images/uploaded/blog/conversion4.png" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/Content/Images/uploaded/blog/conversion5.png" alt="" width="600" /> </p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/Content/Images/uploaded/blog/conversion7.png" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p>Based on Joe's needs, here's a breakdown of what went into this unit:</p> <ul> <li>Fiberglass repairs and modifications to the evaporator case housing including painting the housing black and zinc plating, and painting and detailing the various brackets and clamps. </li> <li>Rebuild, calibration to 134a refrigerant, and installation of the POA valve. </li> <li>Recondition, testing, and installation of the expansion valve including new cork/refrigerant tape to insulate the sensing bulb on the evaporator.</li> <li>Recondition and installation of the original ambient sensor switch.</li> <li>Installation of a new evaporator. </li> <li>Installation of a new blower motor.</li> <li>Installation of a new drain tube.</li> <li>Installation of a new 1970 Nova blower resistor.</li> <li>Installation of a new heater core tube seal.</li> </ul> <p>If you have questions about what Original Air can do for your car, give us a call, send us an email, or leave a comment below!</p>urn:store:1:blog:post:52https://www.originalair.com/behind-the-scenes-with-alien-enclosuresBehind the Scenes with Alien Enclosures<p>That's a wrap! Yesterday, we finished up filming an unboxing video for Alien Enclosures' trunk panel kits. The video features us explaining what's included in our kits piece by piece. All of the kits are designed with the "do-it-yourselfer" in mind. So with a little patience, the average car guy can have these completed in a weekend! </p> <p>However, if you're still a little hesitant, stay tuned for our video! In the meantime, check out our behind the scenes photos below.</p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/Content/Images/uploaded/filming 1.jpg" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/Content/Images/uploaded/blog/panel-kits-1.jpg" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/Content/Images/uploaded/blog/panel-kits-2.jpg" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p> </p>urn:store:1:blog:post:50https://www.originalair.com/check-out-herbs-classic-66-chevelle-malibu-reader-rideCheck Out Herb's Classic 66 Chevelle Malibu Reader Ride<p>I bought my 1966 Chevelle Malibu 5.3L in 1977 when I was a graduate at UCLA. I bought it from the original owner. It has the original 283 Powerglide console, and its factory A/C remains intact. However, it's gone through many changes over the years. Apart from the A/C repairs, it has its original sheet metal but it was painted so long ago its Patina now. The Original Air components on the car are its hoses, drier, and expansion valve. </p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/Content/Images/uploaded/66 chevelle reader ride.jpg" alt="" width="600" /></p>urn:store:1:blog:post:51https://www.originalair.com/test-your-nova-knowledgeTest Your Nova Knowledge<p>You might have seen this car countless times in movies, or your uncle owned one in the '70s. But how well do you really know the Nova? Test your knowledge with these quick facts about the popular classic muscle car. </p> <p><strong>There are Five Generations of Chevy Nova</strong></p> <p>Did you know more than one model exists? Surprisingly, it started in the '60s with the first-generation Chevy II Nova, produced between 1962 to 1965. The first generation had the Chevy II Nova SS, a super sports car that launched in 1963, which was also the first console-shifted Nova. </p> <p>Barely a year later, Chevy introduced the addition of a V8, also known as the 283 Nova. This model had the same console as the previous. Also, it obviously has better horsepower at 195hp with a weight of around 2,500 pounds. Another year later in 1965, Chevy introduced the 327 Nova. The second generation added aesthetic enhancements of the Chevy II Nova, available from 1966 to 1967.</p> <p>Furthermore, the third generation Nova had many modifications and enhancements between 1968 to 1974. It was also the longest produced. With the fourth generation, Chevrolet attempted to follow stricter safety regulations, but it didn't sell well between 1975 to 1979. From 1985 to 1988, Chevy produced Nova's last generation.</p> <p><strong>The Chevy II Nova SS</strong></p> <p>The Chevy Nova SS that came out barely a year after the first generation Chevy II Nova stands as the only convertible model of the Chevy II Nova. Available for a short time, this served as the top choice of muscle cars in its era. Additionally, it continues to remain sought after today. The 1967 Nova SS coupe was the only model with a console-mounted shifter. The three-speed manual transmission was the standard transmission on all models, even the SS. These vehicles could either have a four-speed manual transmission or a Powerglide automatic transmission. Furthermore, the 65SS, 66SS, and 67SS all could order the floor shift and console, but the four-speed and PG were optional and had to be specially ordered. This model stands as the only model with this particular transmission choice as other models had column-mounted shifters.</p> <p style="text-align: center;"> <img src="/Content/Images/uploaded/Chevrolet Nova 350.jpg" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p><strong>Chevy Nova Not Selling Because of the Name?</strong></p> <p>Have you heard of the myth that the Chevy Nova had trouble selling to Spanish-speaking countries because of the name, "Nova?" Moreover, many believed that Spanish-speakers heard, "it didn't go well" or "no go," making the car seem unsatisfactory. Well, this myth is busted. Car fanatics debunked the old rumor by looking at moderately successful sales in Venezuela and Mexico. It turns out Spanish-speaking countries knew the difference between "Nova" and "no va." </p> <p><strong>No Other Car Inspired the Design</strong></p> <p>The name "Nova" which means "new" highlights the car's originality. In fact, during the years Chevrolet made the Nova, no other car appeared similar in its design. When Chevrolet lost to Ford in the competition for compact cars, Chevy needed to create something fresh and distinct. They thus decided to pursue an ingenious idea. In 1961, they introduced the world to the first generation of Chevy Nova. Additionally, it is one of the fastest developments of a new car in GM history, taking only 18 months to produce after designers initiated the work.</p> <p><strong>Chevy Had a Terrible Version of the Nova</strong></p> <p>With the 80s bringing consumers to smaller, more efficient cars, Chevrolet decided to collaborate with Toyota. They produced a front-wheel-drive compact car to badge as the Nova from 1985 to 1988. It totally disrespected the Nova name as the ugliest model in Nova history. Even people today rarely drive a version of it proudly.</p> <p><strong>Yenko Nova</strong></p> <p>Don Yenko, a muscle car expert and car-racer, redesigned a series from Chevy Nova's third generation. Named the Yenko SuperNova cars, a total of 37 of them exist. Twenty-eight of them had Chevy 427cid V8 engines, although they later changed them to 350cid V8 engines in 1970.</p> <p><strong>The Name "Nova"</strong></p> <p>Chevrolet did not put the name "Nova" on the cars until the end of the 1960s. Known as the Chevy II, the term "Nova" began describing the Chevy II's highest trim level. </p> <p><strong>Nova Clones</strong></p> <p>Lastly, Chevy's success with the Nova led to the creation of the X-Body clones Oldsmobile Omega, Pontiac Ventura, and Buick Apollo. Put all the models together, and what do they spell? </p> <p><strong>N</strong>ova</p> <p><strong>O</strong>mega</p> <p><strong>V</strong>entura</p> <p><strong>A</strong>pollo</p> <p>Got any other impressive Nova knowledge? Please comment and share!</p>urn:store:1:blog:post:49https://www.originalair.com/reader-ride-jims-1965-ford-mustang-289Reader Ride: Jim's 1965 Ford Mustang 289<h3 style="text-align: center;">Check out the wonderful story from Jim about his 1965 Ford Mustang 289!</h3> <p style="padding-left: 30px;">1965 Mustang coupe. I am the third owner. I found this car as a barn find in Yucaipa California. It had been sitting since 1978 and was in need of restoration. The car was purchased new in San Bernardino, CA from Garner Ford. It was purchased from the original owner in 1978, blew a head gasket and got parked.</p> <p style="padding-left: 30px;">I bought the the car in 2009. All of the original factory equipment was still on the car. Original drive train and all parts were there. The license plate and frame are the original pieces. I have the original titles and registrations showing the history. I have several repair receipts from the original and second owners. There was no rust at all in the car. I completed the restoration in 2014. The car is equipped with the original A/C. Original color was Light Blue with blue interior. The car was completely disassembled for restoration.</p> <p style="padding-left: 30px; text-align: center;"> <img src="/Content/Images/uploaded/reader rides/rr-65mustang1.JPG" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p style="padding-left: 30px;"> </p> <p style="padding-left: 30px; text-align: center;"><img src="/Content/Images/uploaded/reader rides/rr-65mustang2.jpeg" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p style="padding-left: 30px;"> </p> <p style="padding-left: 30px; text-align: center;"><img src="/Content/Images/uploaded/reader rides/rr-65mustang3.jpeg" alt="" width="600" /></p>urn:store:1:blog:post:48https://www.originalair.com/what-are-survivorsWhat are Survivors?<p>Simply put, a survivor is a classic that has withstood the test of time. What does this mean, and more importantly how is that possible? To break it down further, survivors have maintained their original features and many of their original parts. This includes its original finish, its original interior, its factory power train, and even some of its original equipment such as a spare tire or lug wrench.</p> <p>Unsurprisingly, ideal survivors are the classics holed up in garages for decades that escaped wind, rain, sun, traffic, and ultimately left in almost perfect conditions. Realistically, survivors do require repairs. To maintain their identity as a survivor, any modifications cannot involve changing original features such as the finish. </p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/Content/Images/uploaded/american-car-auto-automobile-1534604.jpg" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p>We recently had a customer that wanted work on one of these cars. He wanted us to rebuild his compressor, but not alter the exterior. In this case, we didn't bead-blast and repaint it. We just rebuilt it functionally. At Original Air, we can do this on a number of parts, but not necessarily all parts. Most parts that we can rebuild or recondition without altering the appearance are listed below:</p> <ul> <li>Most valves such as VIR's, expansion valves (STV), hot-gas valves (HGV), accumulators and even some filler-driers (depending upon where they have to be cut open)</li> <li>Most evaporators or evaporator units</li> <li>Most condensers</li> <li>Most heater controls</li> <li>House repairs are typically much more difficult, but there are sometimes some options. </li> </ul> <p>Are you an owner of a survivor that needs a repair? Fill out our <a href="https://originalair.com/rebuild-request-form">rebuild request form</a> today!</p>urn:store:1:blog:post:47https://www.originalair.com/how-to-identify-long-and-short-chevy-water-pumpsHow to Identify Long and Short Chevy Water Pumps<p style="text-align: center;">Some time ago, we had a client reach out to ask us how to identify a short or long water pump on their Chevy engine. Except for trucks and Corvettes, all models from 1955 through 1968 had short water pumps. They always had the compressor mounted on the passenger side of the engine while the alternator stood on the driver's side. Short water pumps measure from the front to the back where it mounts on the engine block to the pulley flange. They measure 5 5/8 inches for SB engines and 5 3/4 inches for BB engines. </p> <p>With the exception of the models mentioned above, long water pumps started in 1969 and ran on engines with standard v-belt drives into the 1980s when belt-drive systems became more complex. These longer engines always had the compressor mounted on the driver's side of the engine whereas the alternator sat on the passenger side. Long water pumps measure from where they attach to the engine block to the pulley flange. They measure 7 inches for SB engines and 7 1/4 inches for BB engines.</p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/Content/Images/uploaded/CHEVY WATER PUMP - Long &amp; Short.jpg" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p>To determine if the pulleys remain on the car, check between the back of the pulley and the water pump. Except for incredibly small fingers, you should not be able to get in between the setup for short water pumps. Likewise, with the exception of incredibly thick fingers, they should fit in between a long water pump setup. </p> <p>Here are two additional helpful diagrams from our friends at Summit Racing Equipment to further help identify short and long water pumps: </p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/Content/Images/uploaded/short.png" alt="" width="300" /><img src="/Content/Images/uploaded/long.png" alt="" width="300" /></p>urn:store:1:blog:post:46https://www.originalair.com/firebird-conversion-projectFirebird Conversion Project<p>A short while ago, we received an evaporator unit from a client. It's originally from a 1969 Firebird that we're going to convert into a 1970 Nova. You can see it's stuffed with a lot of debris so first, we're going to do a little cleaning. On top of some mild maintenance, it clearly took some heavy fiberglass damage in transit, so we're going to have to also repair the damage it received being shipped. </p> <p>Check out some before photos of the part, and stay tuned for this Firebird's conversion into a 1970 Nova evaporator unit!</p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/Content/Images/uploaded/69 Firebird conversion to 70 Nova BB Debris Stuck inside housing (Stops Airflow) BEFORE.JPG" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/Content/Images/uploaded/69 Firebird conversion to 70 Nova BB Evaporator Unit BEFORE (1).JPG" alt="" width="600" /></p>urn:store:1:blog:post:45https://www.originalair.com/mecum-auctions-and-our-firebird-conversion-projectMecum Auctions<p>This past week, we checked out some of the amazing classics for sale at the Mecum Auctions in Kissimmee, Florida. We came across this 1967 Buick Riviera. She had a 430 CI V-8 engine along with a 4 barrel carburetor and automatic transmission. Her factory air-conditioning, clock, and gauges all remain intact. She also has soft ray tinted glass and clean, vinyl roofing that makes any other convertible pale in comparison. Take a peek at this beauty:</p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/Content/Images/uploaded/Buick Riviera 1967 (7).JPG" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/Content/Images/uploaded/Buick Riviera 1967 (5).JPG" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p>Although we'd prefer to drive countless miles through Kissimmee as opposed to walking, we've had a spectacular time so far. Stay tuned for more!</p>urn:store:1:blog:post:43https://www.originalair.com/should-you-tint-your-classics-windowsShould You Tint Your Classic's Windows?<p>We’re based in the sunshine state, so our average climate doesn’t exactly help classic cars’ air conditions. Apart from performing routine maintenance on your classic’s AC, one preventative measure to keep it performing its best is tinting its windows.</p> <p>You have control over the tint’s shade and UV blockage. Not only that, but your options are almost limitless. You can save money and apply the tint yourself, or you can find a local shop to do it for you.</p> <p>One issue people find with tinting a classic’s windows is that it’s essentially a modification. Some feel that any changes such as altering the factory glass take some of the originality out of the car. However, if done correctly, tinting is temporary and can be removed at any time.</p> <p>If you’re still not on board, consider this: your classic’s AC is precious, especially if it’s original. Therefore, it needs any help it can get to stay functional. The biggest advantage with window tints is that the film can block anywhere from 35-65 % of heat from building up in the car. You can decrease both fuel consumption and AC wear, ultimately putting a lot less stress on it. Plus, installing window tints protects your investment, blocks up to 99% unhealthy UV rays that harm your skin and upholstery, and hinders windshield glare from sunlight and headlights. Classic car guru and enthusiast Andrew Golseth gives his views on tinting classic windows <a href="https://petrolicious.com/articles/does-window-tint-ever-belong-on-classic-cars">here</a>.</p> <p>We personally recommend <a href="https://www.llumar.com/automotive-film/types-of-automotive-film/ceramic-window-tint">ceramic window tint</a>. It’s completely metal-free so in addition to 99% UV protection, glare control, and heat rejection, it won’t interfere with any of your electronics. Its nano-ceramic technology is also customizable; you have a range of different charcoal shades to choose from that pairs best with your classic.</p> <p style="text-align: left;">Applying a tint specifically to the windshield is legal in most states, but we recommend you check out your <a href="https://instamotor.com/blog/window-tinting-laws-50-states">local laws</a> to be on the safe side.</p> <p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/Content/Images/uploaded/blog/1970-Chevelle-Ls630.jpg" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p> </p>urn:store:1:blog:post:5https://www.originalair.com/3-reasons-to-upgrade-to-parallel-flow-ac-condensor3 Reasons to Upgrade to Parallel Flow A/C Condenser<p>Seeking better performance from your AC system? Consider changing from your traditional tube and fin condenser to a parallel flow condenser. Modern condensers are more efficient due to the materials used and increased surface area.</p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/Content/Images/uploaded/2011-08-25-air-conditioning-condenser-in-place.jpg" alt="ac condenser" width="600" /></p> <p><br />A little history on the automotive air conditioner condenser. Copper was the preferred metal used with R12 to allow for efficient heat exchange as refrigerant flowing through the system. Condensers were designed as one continuous tube wrapping back and forth across a plane to allow for heat to radiate away from the system. Although more expensive, eventually aluminum began replacing copper as a more effective way to provide the necessary cooling. From the tubes being made of aluminum, to also the fins manufactured from aluminum, ac systems continue to evolve.</p> <p><br />Today, manufacturers utilize parallel flow condensers with R134a. Using multiple tubes rather than just a traditional single tube, parallel flow condensers maximize contact with the refrigerant to increase the transfer of heat away from the system. This allows the automotive air conditioning system to run even more efficiently than the tube and fin setup.</p> <p>In summary, here is why you should consider investing in a parallel flow condenser as an upgrade to your tube and fin setup:</p> <ul> <li>There is more metal surface area available for the refrigerant to pass over leading to more efficient heat exchange.</li> <li>Our Parallel flow condensers are built to be direct bolt-in replacements of the OE unit – no modification needed on your car.</li> <li>Refrigerant utilized can be either R12 or R134a, and is ideal if you are considering upgrading to R134a.</li> </ul> <p>Here at Original Air, we manufacture our own line of parallel condensers that are direct/exact fit for your original factory AC system.</p> <p> </p>urn:store:1:blog:post:41https://www.originalair.com/vir-eliminators-and-extra-partsVIR Eliminators and Extra Parts<p>Original Air’s VIR Eliminator kits are designed to replace all VIRs that GM manufactured. While the orientation of the evaporator tubing varies from car to car, the VIR Assemblies are all the same.</p> <p>The tubing needs to be manipulated even when removing and reinstalling the stock VIR. The same is true when using our Eliminator kits.</p> <p>Our customer who has a classic Chevrolet Nova needed the orifice block and associated lower evaporator tube to be moved toward the evaporator case so that there was clearance for the accumulator to sit vertically (critical to allow oil flow back to the compressor). He was hesitant to do so until we explained about removing/reinstalling the original VIR.</p> <p>The tubing will move where you want it to, but remember to be gentle.</p> <p>Not too long ago, we had a customer requesting an extra part for the upper fitting of the accumulator since his upper evaporator tube didn’t seem long enough.</p> <p>Note that if your fitting is too short, it means one of two things:</p> <ul type="disc"> <li>Someone has modified it</li> <li>The wrong evaporator is in the vehicle</li> </ul> <p>All original VIR Equipped vehicles can utilize the Eliminator kit, as long as the rest of the system (evaporator, liquid hose, compressor suction hose) are in factory stock form.</p> <p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/Content/Images/uploaded/blog/Screen Shot 2018-11-26 at 12.19.22 PM.png" alt="73-76 GM A/C Valves-In-Received (VIR) - REBUILT" width="600" /></p>urn:store:1:blog:post:14https://www.originalair.com/where-to-buy-muscle-cars-onlineWhere to Buy Muscle Cars Online<p>When shopping anywhere on the Internet, there are two rules. First, make sure the site you are purchasing from is secured. Second, if it feels like a scam, it most likely is. If it’s too good to be true, don’t trust it. With those rules in mind, the Internet has a wealth of knowledge and resources for finding every kind of muscle car you can imagine. There are three primary ways to safely purchase a muscle car the web, each with their own positives and negatives. Prioritize your needs for purchasing methods and what makes you feel most confident in purchasing from the Internet.</p> <p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/Content/Images/uploaded/pablo (30).png" alt="" width="600" /></p> <h2>Online Car Auctions</h2> <p>There are lots and lots of car auction sites out there. Some big, some small, with varying degree of price, quality, and location. Some of the most well-known and well -respected auction houses are <a href="https://www.mecum.com/">Mecum</a>, <a href="http://www.barrett-jackson.com/">Barrett-Jackson</a>, and <a href="https://classiccars.com">ClassicCars.com</a>. Each of these sites list some of the most sought after cars in the world and they are some of the most trusted auction houses in the business.</p> <p>We prefer to use eBay Motors. It offers a certain level of security and buying options. eBay can be a slippery slope and people have been known to fall for scammers, but we refer you back to rule number 2: if it feels like a scam, it most likely is. When spending any large amount of money, be sure to contact the seller and develop a rapport with them as best you can before you purchase anything and do your best to see the car before purchasing. If you haven’t purchased from eBay before, <a href="http://www.find-your-muscle-car.com/ebay-muscle-car-search.html">here</a> is a useful resource with some simple steps on how to go about doing so.</p> <h2>Online Classifieds</h2> <p>The classifieds are a dodgy group of websites, so the rules apply here heavily. Do not mistake them for dealers. These are websites that advertise independent sellers. There are many out there that have not been updated for years, so I would stick with the first page of Google when searching for these sites. Here is a little list of some of the best classifieds out there (in no particular order). Again, be always wary of scams, no matter the site.</p> <ul> <li><strong>Craigslist – </strong>We know, we know, this might be an obvious choice, but it is one of the best resources from gauging local prices in the area, and it deserves a mention. Craigslist offers anything and everything so be prepared to spend some time searching here to find what you are looking for. Again, be careful of scams.</li> <li><strong>Forums – </strong>Find yourself a model-specific forum (<a href="http://www.chevelles.com/forums/">http://www.chevelles.com/forums/</a>) and delve into the classifieds section (<a href="http://www.chevelles.com/classifieds/">http://www.chevelles.com/classifieds/</a>) if the forum has one. Forums are great for information on any muscle car you can think of, so use them wisely.</li> <li><a href="http://www.autotempest.com/">Autotempest</a><strong> –</strong> One of the most top-rated sites that encompasses almost every major listing site out there.  It sorts by distance according to zip, make and model. It is honestly one of, if not the best way to search classifieds. <a href="http://www.autotempest.com/">http://www.autotempest.com/</a></li> <li><a href="http://www.carsonline-ads.com">Carsonline.com</a> - One of the most muscle car-specific sites available.  While this site is straight out of the 90s, it provides you information to outside listings that you may not be able to find your own search.<img src="/Content/Images/uploaded/xcolchrlo1-med.jpg.pagespeed.ic.AC1Y-E8FOO.jpg" alt="" width="303" height="98" /></li> </ul> <h2>Online Muscle Car Dealers</h2> <p>These dealers tend to be higher priced but carry a lot of rare and beautiful cars, so they’re at least a useful source to look at some great cars. Like a lot of auction sites, they can be small and regionally located. We always recommend going with the larger sites if you’re going to buy just for safety’s sake, but as with any online purchase, always assume a certain amount of risk.</p> <p>If you do shop online dealers, do your best to see the car before you buy. This is an investment, not an Amazon purchase. Listed below are some of our favorite dealers.</p> <ul> <li><a href="http://www.pjsautoworld.com">PJ's Auto World</a></li> <li><a href="http://www.streetsideclassics.com/vehicles">Streetside Classic Cars</a></li> <li><a href="http://countryclassiccars.com/">Country Classic Cars</a></li> </ul> <p>The Internet has completely changed the way we purchase everything, so always be careful. Finding the best deal online takes time and energy, so be meticulous and most importantly, have fun. We wouldn’t be doing this if it wasn’t fun.</p>urn:store:1:blog:post:6https://www.originalair.com/r12-vs-r134aIs R134a Right for my Muscle Car?<div class="OutlineElement Ltr SCX150780006"> <p class="Paragraph SCX150780006"><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/Content/Images/uploaded/R134a vs R12.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="338" /></p> <p class="Paragraph SCX150780006"><span class="TextRun SCX150780006" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX150780006">If the air conditioning system in your car is not running properly for one reason or another, you are probably looking into fixing it or getting it replaced. However, if your vehicle was made before 199</span></span><span class="TextRun SCX150780006" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX150780006">5</span></span><span class="TextRun SCX150780006" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX150780006">,</span></span><span class="TextRun SCX150780006" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX150780006"> like many muscle cars,</span></span><span class="TextRun SCX150780006" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX150780006"> </span></span><span class="TextRun SCX150780006" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX150780006">it most likely contains R12 and you might consider converting to 134a</span></span><span class="TextRun SCX150780006" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX150780006">. The debate between R12 and 134a is a complicated one, so we've answered five main questions you might have when approaching this problem.</span></span><span class="EOP SCX150780006"> </span></p> </div> <ol class="NumberListStyle1 SCX150780006" start="1"> <li class="OutlineElement Ltr SCX150780006"> <p class="Paragraph SCX150780006"><span class="TextRun SCX150780006" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX150780006">W</span></span><span class="TextRun SCX150780006" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX150780006">hat’s</span></span><span class="TextRun SCX150780006" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX150780006"> the difference</span></span><span class="TextRun SCX150780006" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX150780006"> between R12 and 134a</span></span><span class="TextRun SCX150780006" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX150780006">?</span></span><span class="TextRun SCX150780006" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX150780006"> </span></span><span class="TextRun SCX150780006" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX150780006">R12 and 134a</span></span><span class="TextRun SCX150780006" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX150780006"> </span></span><span class="TextRun SCX150780006" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX150780006">are refrigerants used in car air conditioning systems</span></span><span class="TextRun SCX150780006" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX150780006">. R12 was used in most cars and trucks until 1995 when it was replaced with 134a. Other than new car manufacturers over the last few years having switched to 1234yf, it's remained in use ever since.  </span></span><span class="TextRun SCX150780006" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX150780006">The main difference between the two is that </span></span><span class="TextRun SCX150780006" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX150780006">R12 is the amount of time they remain in earth's atmosphere, with the newer 134a significantly less than the old R12.</span></span></p> </li> </ol><ol class="NumberListStyle1 SCX150780006" start="2"> <li class="OutlineElement Ltr SCX150780006"> <p class="Paragraph SCX150780006"><span class="TextRun SCX150780006" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX150780006">W</span></span><span class="TextRun SCX150780006" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX150780006">hy was the manufacturing of R12 banned</span></span><span class="TextRun SCX150780006" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX150780006">?</span></span><span class="TextRun SCX150780006" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX150780006"> </span></span><span class="TextRun SCX150780006" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX150780006">R12 contains CFCs</span></span><span class="TextRun SCX150780006" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX150780006"> like hairspray once did</span></span><span class="TextRun SCX150780006" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX150780006">,</span></span><span class="TextRun SCX150780006" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX150780006"> that is potentially damaging to the ozone layer. It was banned because of this potential environmental risk and replaced by 134a</span></span><span class="TextRun SCX150780006" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX150780006"> because </span></span><span class="TextRun SCX150780006" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX150780006">134a</span></span><span class="TextRun SCX150780006" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX150780006">, using synthetic oil over mineral oil,</span></span><span class="TextRun SCX150780006" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX150780006"> </span></span><span class="TextRun SCX150780006" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX150780006">does not have as much of a negative environmental impact that R12 does.</span></span><span class="EOP SCX150780006"> </span></p> </li> </ol><ol class="NumberListStyle1 SCX150780006" start="3"> <li class="OutlineElement Ltr SCX150780006"> <p class="Paragraph SCX150780006"><span class="TextRun SCX150780006" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX150780006">W</span></span><span class="TextRun SCX150780006" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX150780006">hy should I make the switch from R12 to 134a?</span></span><span class="TextRun SCX150780006" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX150780006"> </span></span><span class="TextRun SCX150780006" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX150780006">The manufacturing ban on R12</span></span><span class="TextRun SCX150780006" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX150780006"> </span></span><span class="TextRun SCX150780006" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX150780006">makes it</span></span><span class="TextRun SCX150780006" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX150780006"> </span></span><span class="TextRun SCX150780006" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX150780006">difficult to find </span></span><span class="TextRun SCX150780006" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX150780006">at most auto stores now.  </span></span><span class="TextRun SCX150780006" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX150780006">If you can find R12, it has either been stored or it's been imported.  Either way, it'll be fairly expensive, especially when compared with </span></span><span class="TextRun SCX150780006" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX150780006">134a.  </span></span><span class="EOP SCX150780006"><br /></span></p> </li> </ol><ol class="NumberListStyle1 SCX150780006" start="4"> <li class="OutlineElement Ltr SCX150780006"> <p class="Paragraph SCX150780006"><span class="TextRun SCX150780006" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX150780006">How do I convert an R12 air conditioning system to a 134a system?</span></span><span class="TextRun SCX150780006" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX150780006"> There are conversion</span></span><span class="TextRun SCX150780006" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX150780006"> kits t</span></span><span class="TextRun SCX150780006" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX150780006">hat can help </span></span><span class="TextRun SCX150780006" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX150780006">as well as conversion calculators online to aid in the conversion</span></span><span class="TextRun SCX150780006" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX150780006">, but the process easy to follow with simple instructions</span></span><span class="TextRun SCX150780006" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX150780006"> <a href="https://originalair.com/upgrades-all">here</a>.</span></span></p> </li> </ol><ol class="NumberListStyle1 SCX150780006" start="5"> <li class="OutlineElement Ltr SCX150780006"> <p class="Paragraph SCX150780006"><span class="TextRun SCX150780006" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX150780006">I've found R12 is effective in my car. </span></span><span class="TextRun SCX150780006" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX150780006">Should I still convert to 134a, or should I keep the old R12?</span></span><span class="TextRun SCX150780006" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX150780006">  <span class="TextRun SCX150780006" lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX150780006">If converted properly, most cars can get the same vent temperatures</span></span><span class="EOP SCX150780006"> as the car originally did with the old R12.  There are few exceptions, but generally, cars with undersized evaporators (Corvettes, for one) occasionally struggle in 90' plus heat.  </span>If you truly are adamant about R12, it's recommended that you go through the entire system to ensure it's leak-free for years of trouble-free performance.  Most of the same procedures in converting to 134a will still apply when getting an R12 system back up and running.<br /></span></span></p> </li> </ol> <div class="OutlineElement Ltr SCX150780006"> <p class="Paragraph SCX150780006"><span class="TextRun SCX150780006" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX150780006">All in all, 134a is preferable to R12 because it is readily available, affordable and self-manageable on top of being better for the environment. </span></span><span class="TextRun SCX150780006" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX150780006">Hopefully, these answers will help you understand the differences between R12 and 134a and guide</span></span><span class="TextRun SCX150780006" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX150780006"> </span></span><span class="TextRun SCX150780006" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX150780006">you in fixing your car air conditioning system.</span></span><span class="EOP SCX150780006"> </span></p> </div>urn:store:1:blog:post:3https://www.originalair.com/time-lapse-video-of-evaporator-restorationTime Lapse Video of Evaporator Restoration<p style="text-align: center;"><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/LReHcGLnBwM" width="640" height="360" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen="allowfullscreen"></iframe></p> <p style="text-align: left;">From our friends at Graveyard Carz, here is a time lapse video showing the disassembly and re-assembly of a rare 1971 Dodge Challenger R/T Evaporator Housing.</p>urn:store:1:blog:post:42https://www.originalair.com/high-blower-speedHigh Blower Speed<p class="x_MsoNormal">In September, we discussed why you should keep your original factory A/C system. But what if it’s not working?</p> <p class="x_MsoNormal">One common issue is that a fan doesn’t reach full capacity, yet all other speeds work. Most people assume the fan switch is bad, but in reality, the cause is usually a bad blower relay. The switch doesn’t control the high speed, it controls the relay which then activates high speed.</p> <p class="x_MsoNormal">While fan switches can eventually fail, typically they never do on their own. If a fan switch does burn out (due to a loose terminal, there are burn marks on its back, or loses any speed other than high) it’s typically the result of a deteriorating blower motor which is drawing high amperage (or a bad ground connection to the motor).</p> <p class="x_MsoNormal">The same is the case with resistors and relays. If a resistor has a coil burn out or any terminals lose, it’s likely the blower motor. Replacing any of those components without changing or repairing the blower motor may fix the issue temporarily. However, this will only cause the newly installed parts to fail again.</p> <p class="x_MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">So before you order any new parts for a fan that does not reach high speed, remember to check the blower motor and connections first.</p> <p class="x_MsoNormal"><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/Content/Images/uploaded/blog/auto-automobile-automotive-358155.jpg" alt="Factory AC" width="600" /></p>urn:store:1:blog:post:40https://www.originalair.com/great-classic-car-events-coming-in-2019Great classic car events coming in 2019!<p>As we near the end of 2018, it’s time to start thinking about next year’s vacation! Whether you want to enter into a show, participate in an auction, test your speed or just relax and spectate, check out these events happening next year across the globe! </p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/Content/Images/uploaded/FIRST-PHOTO-CARS.jpg" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p style="text-align: left;"><strong>Saturday Night Car Cruise - </strong>EVERY SATURDAY!</p> <p>If you can’t make it to annually scheduled events, don’t worry. Old Town is home to one America’s longest-running weekly car show and cruise, with show-quality pre-87 model hot rods, street rods, and antiques. The event includes giveaways, cash prizes, live entertainment and best of all, it happens every weekend in Kissimmee, Florida!</p> <p><strong>The Scottsdale Auctions - </strong>January 12 – 20, 2019</p> <p>Each year, Scottsdale hosts a thriving automotive marketplace. Check out the high-quality assortment of vehicles from entry-level models to full classic models up for auction in Scottsdale, Arizona. Bid on something new or consign your old at the Scottsdale Auctions!</p> <p><strong>Amelia Island Concours - </strong>March 7 – 11, 2019</p> <p>Car collectors and enthusiasts alike will want to plan for this event. Experience auctions, test-drives and seminars from renowned automotive drivers and designers on the Atlantic coast in Amelia Island, Florida. The weekend culminates with the Concours d’Elegance, a distinguished judged car show with some of the world’s finest. </p> <p><strong>The Classic at Pismo Beach Car Show - </strong>May 31 – June 2, 2019</p> <p>This FREE event attracts automobile enthusiasts from all over the country and is open to all makes and models of cars. In addition to the peer-judged competition, special hand-selected awards are given to the very best. Located on the beautiful Pacific coast, this is an event you won’t want to miss.</p> <p><strong>Carlisle Nationals - </strong>June 21 – 22, 2019</p> <p>GM enthusiasts, this is for you. Discover an array of vehicles, including vintage muscle to modern models. This family-friendly event in Carlisle, Pennsylvania offers a weekend full of displays, customs, industry leaders and much more. </p> <p><strong>Goodwood Revival - </strong>September 13 – 15, 2019</p> <p>Plan an international trip and check out this three-day festival that includes head-to-head racing, a car show of pre-66 models and much more. The festival is held annually at Goodwood Circuit, near Chichester, West Sussex and close to the south coast of England. This is an event you don’t want to miss.</p>urn:store:1:blog:post:36https://www.originalair.com/fall-inspection-checklistFall Inspection Checklist<p style="text-align: left;"> </p> <p style="margin-bottom: 0.16in; background: #ffffff;" align="CENTER"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;"><strong>October is Fall Care Month</strong></span></span></span></p> <p style="margin-bottom: 0.16in; background: #ffffff;" align="CENTER"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br />Get your vehicle ready for cooler temperatures this October.<br /> Preventative maintenance leads to fewer unexpected repairs.</span></span></span></p> <p style="margin-bottom: 0.16in; background: #ffffff;" align="CENTER"> </p> <p style="margin-bottom: 0.16in; background: #ffffff;" align="CENTER"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><img src="/Content/Images/uploaded/fall_tree.jpg" alt="" width="600" /></span></span></span></p> <p style="margin-bottom: 0.16in; background: #ffffff;" align="CENTER"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><strong>Inspection Check List:</strong></span></span></span></p> <p style="margin-bottom: 0.16in;"><strong><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Heating, ventilating and air conditioning- </span></span></span></strong><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Proper heating performance is just as important as proper cooling performance – keep in mind that we are the A/C and heating industry leader and have the largest inventory of used original parts in the business!</span></span></span></p> <p style="margin-bottom: 0.16in;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><strong>Exhaust</strong></span></span></span><strong><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><strong> system- </strong></span></span></span></strong><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Be aware of leaks and damage to assure harmful fumes do not enter the vehicle.</span></span></span></p> <p style="margin-bottom: 0.16in;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><strong>Hoses and Belts- </strong></span></span></span><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Check for cracks, bubbles, and bulges in your hoses. Don’t risk being stranded on a highway with a broken-down car. Read more about replacing hoses here: </span></span></span><a href="https://www.originalair.com/when-should-i-replace-my-hoses"><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">https://www.originalair.com/when-should-i-replace-my-hoses</span></span></a></p> <p style="margin-bottom: 0.16in;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><strong>Brake System- </strong></span></span></span><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Have brake system inspected now, especially if you will be driving in more intense weather this winter.</span></span></span></p> <p style="margin-bottom: 0.16in;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><strong>Fluids</strong></span></span></span><span style="color: #333333;"> – </span><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Check your engine oil, coolant, power steering fluid, brake fluid, and windshield washer fluid.</span></span></span></p> <p style="margin-bottom: 0.16in;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><strong>Lighting </strong></span></span></span><span style="color: #333333;">– </span><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Check exterior lights frequently. Look for cracks, burnt-out bulbs, and dimmed lights. </span></span></span></p> <p style="margin-bottom: 0.16in;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><strong>Battery</strong></span></span></span><span style="color: #333333;"> – </span><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Look for corrosion, leaking and swelling in your battery. The connection should be tight and free of corrosion.</span></span></span></p> <p style="margin-bottom: 0.16in;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><strong>Tires</strong></span></span></span><span style="color: #333333;"> – </span><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Inspect the tread on all four tires as well as tire pressure. Ensure your wheels are aligned and check for any bulging, cracks or bald areas.</span></span></span></p> <p style="margin-bottom: 0.16in;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><strong>Wipers</strong></span></span></span><span style="color: #333333;"> – </span><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Ensure your wipers are not worn down. This will be important should you drive through any inclement weather.</span></span></span></p> <p style="margin-bottom: 0in;"> </p> <p> </p>urn:store:1:blog:post:39https://www.originalair.com/why-keep-your-original-factory-ac-systemWhy Keep Your Original Factory A/C System?<p>We know you have thought about it when planning to restore or modify your classic car or truck - "Should I keep this factory A/C system?"  We get emails and calls all the time as owners seek validation for keeping their classic system and the costs to maintain.  Well, if you ever wondered, here are a couple things to keep in mind:</p> <ul> <li>It’s cool.  Literally!  Since many classic cars and truck did not come with factory air-conditioning, and even those that did were often stripped of key parts at some point in its life, having a classic with factory air-conditioning helps it to stand out from the crowd.  Especially if it’s functioning and kicking cool air.</li> <li>Resale value.  Having the original functioning factory air-conditioning has proven to help increase resale value.  It can also help your car sell ahead of one without factory air conditioning.</li> <li>There are still options for getting it fixed, and in some cases, more efficient.  Original Air offers customer rebuilding &amp; fabrication services for many parts for your classic.  We also manufacture model specific (and sometimes custom) parallel-flow condensers, sell model specific Stage-1, 2 &amp; 3 A/C performance upgrade kits designed to improve the factory air-conditioning.</li> <li>No need to modify your car.  Many aftermarket air-conditioning systems require some sort of modification to the vehicle and may not fit as well as the factory engineered system </li> </ul> <p>So, don't think about it!  If you have a factory A/C car or truck, keep it and enjoy the benefits of being cool.</p> <p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/Content/Images/uploaded/blog/original-factory-ac.jpg" alt="" width="600" /></p>urn:store:1:blog:post:37https://www.originalair.com/reader-ride-andys-1971-chevrolet-c10-350Reader Ride: Andy's 1971 Chevrolet C10 350<p>This truck was my grandfathers. He gave it to me shortly before he passed away. My father actually sold it to him sometime around 1977 so it has been in our family for many years. Grandpa drove it daily to work for quite some time until he retired. From there it became a work truck. Used for pretty much anything you can use a truck for.</p> <p>I have had the truck since 1995 and used it as my daily driver for more than 15 years. I was always amazed at how reliable it was. When my last child graduated from high school I began to seriously think about rebuilding it. At first I thought I would just fix the rusted parts and paint it. But I soon realized that wouldn't be good enough. As I took parts off the truck I saw that there was much more deterioration than expected. So I did the only thing a car guy can think of, complete restoration!</p> <p>The project has taken close to 7 years from disassembly to completion. Well, are we ever really done with our classics? At any rate, I have endeavored to stay as original as possible. I have repaired over replace as much as possible. I had to replace the entire floor pan, pillars and cab corners. And instead of repairing the factory air conditioning I opted for cleaning up the firewall and installing an aftermarket A/C system. And instead of the bench seat I chose to install power bucket seats from a 1997 Suburban. But, I was able to make them look similar to the factory option. I also put in the center console from a 1972 Chevy C10. I liked that style because it has cup holders instead of the slots for the seat belts.</p> <p>The motor is the original 4 bolt main small block 350. I installed a moderate cam, flat top pistons, headers, and an HEI distributor with an external coil so that it sill looks stock. It has the original quadrajet, that I still need to modify so that it can support the changes to the motor. I also rebuilt the TH350 transmission. I did farm out the rebuild of the 3.08 rear end. I had the frame powder coated and rebuilt or refurbished every piece of sheet metal on the truck. I even went so far as to straighten and clean all of the original trim. All of the bed walls, fenders, etc have been cut apart and cleaned of rust and treated with bed liner. All of this was done in a two car garage, including the painting.</p> <p>It has been an absolute labor of love that at times I never thought would be done. For over 5 years every weekend and some weeknights were consumed with this project. There are still some things I want to do to improve the performance. But as of this weekend the tailgate will go on the truck marking "completion" of the project. Unfortunately my father and grandfather are not around to see the final result. But my step-father is and he has helped me immensely. While this project at times has been difficult, even grueling, I would do it again in a heart beat. Just not in an attached two car garage!!!</p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/Content/Images/uploaded/reader rides/1971-Chevy-C10.jpg" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p style="text-align: center;"> <img src="/Content/Images/uploaded/reader rides/1971-Chevy-C10-Motor.jpg" alt="" width="600" /></p>urn:store:1:blog:post:38https://www.originalair.com/share-your-cool-classic-car-or-truck-with-usShare your cool classic car or truck with us!<p><span style="font-size: 9pt;">We are always hearing about cool restoration and modified car projects from our customers, and would love to see and share that factory equipped A/C cars. We have added a form to our website so that you can describe and upload pictures of your ride so that we may share with our customers worldwide. So get your car cleaned up, grab a camera, and send us your best shots!</span></p> <p style="text-align: center;"> </p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/Content/Images/uploaded/bloggg.PNG" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p> </p> <p style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><a href="https://originalair.com/rides/?utm_source=newsletter&amp;utm_campaign=Jan2018&amp;utm_medium=email" target="_blank">Click Here! To Submit Your Ride</a></span></p>urn:store:1:blog:post:35https://www.originalair.com/reader-ride-1973-chevrolet-nova-350Reader Ride: Dave's 1973 Chevy Nova<p style="text-align: center;"><strong>Many thanks to Dave Keillor for sharing his beautiful Chevy Nova with us!</strong></p> <p>Our Nova is a low-mileage car that was originally sold in North Carolina.  It came with factory air and I recently upgraded to a R-134a system from Original Air.  The new system is great!  Mid-30s from the center vent and plenty of cool for the hottest days.  The folks at Classic Auto Air's Original Air Group were great!</p> <p><label class="form-label-top"><strong>Original Air components on the Chevy Nova:</strong></label></p> <div class="form-input-wide"> <ul> <li>Condenser</li> <li>Hoses</li> <li>Compressor</li> <li>Switch</li> <li>Drier</li> <li>Expansion Valve</li> <li>Suction Valve</li> </ul> </div> <p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/Content/Images/uploaded/reader rides/dave-1973-chevy-nova.jpg" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/Content/Images/uploaded/reader rides/dave-1973-chevy-nova-engine.jpg" alt="" width="600" /></p>urn:store:1:blog:post:34https://www.originalair.com/questions-to-ask-before-a-classic-car-purchaseQuestions To Ask Before A Classic Car Purchase<p> </p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/Content/Images/uploaded/Classic Car Buying.jpg" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p style="text-align: left;">We all know the basic questions to ask when buying a car. Is the title clean, does anything not work, etc? You know the deal. But there are a few different kinds of question to ask when purchasing a classic. This is simply due to the fact that you're purchasing a 25 to 50-year-old vehicle. Here are a few things to think about before having your name put on the title. </p> <p><strong>Is There Rust Anywhere?</strong> This is a big one. Don't just ask though. Make sure to get under the car with a flashlight and inspect for yourself. Some rust is to be expected, but you'll be able to tell hazardous</p> <p><strong>Is The Car Currently Registered?</strong> If Not When Was It Last? This will give you a great indication of how long the car has been sitting. And if it has been sitting, was it garage kept? Find out!</p> <p><strong>How Long Have You Owned The Car?</strong> This is one you may ask anyway, but if not it's a great way to weed out how many times this car may have been flipped by other dealers. The longer they've owned the vehicle, the better.</p> <p><strong>Why Are You Selling?</strong> Another basic question, but an important one. This should be one of the first things you ask as it could lead to many important facts about the car. Maybe it needs work, the upkeep has been too expensive or they would just rather have the money. Hopefully, you get an answer that's more of the latter.  </p> <p>Additionally,</p> <p><strong>Don't be afraid or feel rude about bringing your own personal inspector</strong> to give the car a really thorough look through. You can typically bribe your local mechanic who’s been in the game for a while to come with you if you throw him 50 or 100 bucks for his time. Good luck on your next purchase. </p>urn:store:1:blog:post:33https://www.originalair.com/5-things-you-didnt-know-about-dodge5 Things You Didn't Know About Dodge<p style="text-align: left;">1. The Dodge Brothers Started Out Making Bicycles</p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/Content/Images/uploaded/tl-horizontal_main_2x.jpg" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p style="text-align: left;">The Dodge brothers actually started selling transportation through bicycles in Canada in the late 1800s. Above is a patent for a unique dirt-resistant bicycle bearing that set them apart from the competition.  </p> <p>2. Dodge helped produce the first mass-produced car.</p> <p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/Content/Images/uploaded/1915_Ford_Model_T_Runabout.jpg" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p>The Dodge brothers used their stove parts facility (yes they made stove parts after their bicycle venture) to help manufacture parts the contributed to the making Henry Ford's Model T.</p> <p style="text-align: left;">3. Dirty Mary Crazy Larry Was The Chargers First Big Screen Appearance</p> <p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/Content/Images/uploaded/i002072.jpg" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p>Contrary to popular belief, the Dukes Of Hazzard was not the first appearance of a Charger on the big screen.</p> <p>4. Dodge Produced The First Steel Body Car</p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/Content/Images/uploaded/tl-horizontal_main_2x - Copy 1.jpg" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p style="text-align: left;">Edward Budd developed the steel-bodied car in 1912 and came to the Dodge brothers in 1914 to help him mass produce it. Before long they were pumping out 500 steel body car frames per day. </p> <p style="text-align: left;">5. Dodge Created The First Car Specifically For Women</p> <p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/Content/Images/uploaded/dodge_lafemme_catalog2__55.jpg" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p>In 1950 Dodge released the Dodge La Femme, which was actually a great success. It featured Rosebud upholstery.</p>urn:store:1:blog:post:32https://www.originalair.com/vir-eliminators-what-are-they-and-do-i-need-oneVIR Eliminators: What are they and do I need one?<p>Tim with Original Air explains what a VIR does and why a VIR eliminator may make sense for your factory ac equipped classic GM car.</p> <div style="position: relative; height: 0; padding-bottom: 56.25%;"><iframe style="position: absolute; width: 100%; height: 100%; left: 0;" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/6Hp-0pjWH-g?ecver=2" width="640" height="360" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen="allowfullscreen"></iframe></div>urn:store:1:blog:post:31https://www.originalair.com/reader-ride-1977-pontiac-trans-am-400zReader Ride: 1977 Pontiac Trans AM 400Z<p>Original Air customer, Dave Barron, submitted his 1977 Pontiac Trans AM 400Z that we are featuring this month:</p> <p style="text-align: left;">Purchased the car in AZ. in 1984 (spent its whole life there) brought back to MI. in 1985 and stored inside for 24 years. In 2009 / 10 we had a complete frame off restoration done, to as close to OEM as possible. ALL body metal is original, numbers matching, drove it to the first stop of the resto. Car is driven by my wife in the summer only runs like new currently has little over 2K miles on it. Saved and reused all original AC components with exception of the heat exchanger, with the new modern refrigerant it needed a different one, works great all work was upgraded by Florida Air and still works great today. Many additional little details, too much to place here, suffice to say it is virtually original, and people video her driving it.</p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/Content/Images/uploaded/reader rides/1977 Pontiac Trans Am 400Z.jpg" alt="" height="400" /></p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/Content/Images/uploaded/reader rides/DSC_0295.JPG" alt="" height="400" /></p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/Content/Images/uploaded/reader rides/DSC_0302.JPG" alt="" height="400" /></p> <p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/Content/Images/uploaded/reader rides/DSC_0304.JPG" alt="" height="400" /></p>urn:store:1:blog:post:29https://www.originalair.com/all-about-poa-valvesAll About POA Valves<p>The factory air systems from the 60s into the 70s included what is called a POA valve to regulate the flow of refrigerant in the AC system.  Tim breaks down some of the various valves used over time, along with restoration options for these valves.</p> <div style="position: relative; height: 0; padding-bottom: 56.21%;"><iframe style="position: absolute; width: 100%; height: 100%; left: 0;" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/vsiaHdX0vFs?ecver=2" width="641" height="360" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen="allowfullscreen"></iframe></div>urn:store:1:blog:post:28https://www.originalair.com/5-less-common-detailing-tips5 Less Common Detailing Tips<p style="text-align: center;"><strong><img src="/Content/Images/uploaded/blog/Classic_Car_Detailing_Service_Memphis_TN.jpg" alt="" width="600" /></strong></p> <p> </p> <p><span style="font-size: 9pt;"><em>There are a lot of ways to detail a car, and there are a lot of products to help you do so. If you're a classic car owner, chances are you've been gladly making yours shine for years with your own set of routines and products. Well, there are a few extra tips we'd like to give you that you may not have thought of before. </em></span></p> <p><span style="font-size: 9pt;"><strong>1. Clean The Top Of The Windows.</strong></span></p> <p><span style="font-size: 9pt;">At some point during your cleaning, roll down the windows just a little bit and clean the very tops of them. Not doing so can result in smudges and you’ll have no idea where they came from. </span></p> <p><span style="font-size: 9pt;"><strong>2. Treat Your Trim</strong></span></p> <p><span style="font-size: 9pt;">Your trim can look better with a specialized treatment for plastic. Use a plastic restoration product for all your trim before waxing and you’ll notice quite a difference up close and on the overall appearance of your ride.</span> </p> <p><span style="font-size: 9pt;"><strong>3. Brush Your Carpets</strong></span></p> <p><span style="font-size: 9pt;">If you don’t have a vacuum accessory with a brush on it, you should replace that friction with a nylon brush. This helps loosen up the carpet fibers and get all that hard to reach dirt out. The amount of that hard to reach dirt can amount to more than you can imagine.</span></p> <p><span style="font-size: 9pt;"><strong>4. Use 2 Water Buckets</strong></span></p> <p><span style="font-size: 9pt;">One bucket needs to be your regular mixture of water and cleaner, the other just water in it. This is so you don’t put all that dirt from your car back into the bucket when rinsing your cleaning. This is a very common mistake.</span> </p> <p><span style="font-size: 9pt;"><strong>5. Read The Directions!</strong></span></p> <p><span style="font-size: 9pt;">Always take a minute to read the directions of your products. Some products work much more efficiently if the directions are followed correctly. That little bit always counts when you’re striving for perfection.</span></p>urn:store:1:blog:post:27https://www.originalair.com/5-of-the-most-sought-after-classic-muscle-cars5 Of The Most Sought After Classic Muscle Cars<p><strong>5 Of The Most Sought After Classic Muscle Cars</strong> </p> <p>Muscle cars, we love them and so have many people before us. We took a look at what some of the most sought after ones on the market are nowadays. Here's what we found for muscle car models ranging from the '60s to early '70s.</p> <p style="text-align: left;">1. The <strong>Oldsmobile 4-4-2 </strong>(1971)<strong> </strong>Specs: 455-CID V-8, an under-stressed, big-port engine with tug-boat torque</p> <p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/Content/Images/uploaded/blog/528541-1000-0@2x.jpg" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p>2. <strong>Shelby GT 500KR </strong>(Mid to late 1960s)  Specs: 8-cyl. 428cid/335hp 4bbl Cobra Jet</p> <p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/Content/Images/uploaded/blog/McKeel's Mustang 49.jpg" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p>3. <strong>Chevrolet Chevelle SS/LS</strong> (Late 1960's) Specs: The 450 horsepower LS6 was the most powerful engine around in 1970. 780 cfm Holley carburetor </p> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/Content/Images/uploaded/blog/1970-Chevelle-Ls630.jpg" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p style="text-align: left;">4. <strong>Plymouth Barracuda (1970-1971)</strong> Specs: 7.2-liter engine 390 HP </p> <p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/Content/Images/uploaded/blog/1970_plymouth_barracuda-pic-20425-640x480.jpg" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p>5. <strong>Pontiac GTO</strong> (Late 1960's) Specs: ohv V8, 400 cid (4.12x3.75) 370 bhp</p> <p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/Content/Images/uploaded/blog/1969-pontiac-gto-std.jpg" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p> </p> <p> </p>urn:store:1:blog:post:25https://www.originalair.com/jim-centorbis-1970-chevelle-ss-396Reader Ride: Jim Centorbi's 1970 Chevelle SS 396<p>I purchased this car in 1976 from the original owner in North Royalton, Ohio. I drove it through my senior year in high school and with a heavy heart, I had to sell it in the fall of 1977 when I went away to school. <br /><br />In January of 2012, I was contacted by a buyer who had found the car in a barn in Ashtabula, Ohio where it had been sitting since 1980, it was still black with gold stripes like I had painted it in 1977. <br /><br />I purchased the car back and began a frame-off restoration with the help of my 14-year-old son. We have restored it to its former glory and back to the original color of Shadow Gray. The car is all original sheet metal except for the hood and front fenders. Their car was solid and needed no patchwork done. <br /><br />This car is a true SS396, not a clone. The engine is a date correct ‘CE’ block, 3969854 casting 402 cubic inches. The transmission is a Turbo 400 that was built by “Transmission by Bruce” in Parma, Ohio who also built the original transmission. The rear end is the original 12 bolt positraction. The interior is the original dash, console and door panels. The car was a non-A/C car but since I moved to Arizona I wanted to have A/C, I purchased an original A/C unit out of a 72 Chevelle and modified the firewall by making a template. I then made a plate to cover the existing hole for the heater box and attached it to the firewall with panel adhesive.</p> <p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/Content/Images/uploaded/reader rides/13..5.12 cowl bef1.jpg" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/Content/Images/uploaded/reader rides/14..5.12 cowl aft.jpg" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/Content/Images/uploaded/reader rides/IMAG1086.jpg" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/Content/Images/uploaded/reader rides/IMAG1102.jpg" alt="" width="600" /></p>urn:store:1:blog:post:24https://www.originalair.com/we-want-to-see-your-rideWe Want To See Your Ride!<p><span style="font-size: 9pt;">We are always hearing about cool restoration and modified car projects from our customers, and would love to see and share that factory equipped A/C cars. We have added a form to our website so that you can describe and upload pictures of your ride so that we may share with our customers worldwide. So get your car cleaned up, grab a camera, and send us your best shots!</span></p> <p> </p> <p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/Content/Images/uploaded/bloggg.PNG" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p> </p> <p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><a href="https://originalair.com/rides/?utm_source=newsletter&amp;utm_campaign=Jan2018&amp;utm_medium=email" target="_blank">Click Here! To Submit Your Ride</a></span></p>urn:store:1:blog:post:23https://www.originalair.com/ever-looked-inside-an-rv2-ac-compressorEver looked inside an RV2 AC compressor?<p>The RV2 air conditioning compressor is one of the biggest, heaviest cooling units that were mostly found on the early Chrysler/Dodge/Plymouth family of cars.  What makes it cool is that the internals resemble a mini-version of a V-twin motor.  Watch us tear down an RV2 compressor and give you an idea of how we go about restoring this classic workhorse.</p> <p> </p> <div style="position: relative; height: 0; padding-bottom: 56.25%;"><iframe style="position: absolute; width: 100%; height: 100%; left: 0;" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/3C6InOvkBKU?ecver=2" width="640" height="360" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen="allowfullscreen"></iframe></div> <p> </p> <p>First we wanna go ahead and start off and make sure the compressor does full rotation. Just to make sure that it is a core that is buildable. So, this here, this one's spinning all around so we know it's gonna be a good core for the most part. So we'll go ahead and just remove the clutch. So we'll go ahead and remove this bolt, be a half inch bolt on the face. Usually you can get a brass drift so you don't damage the shaft. Just give it a couple taps and the clutch will just come right off. Move the wires here in the back. And then we'll go ahead and we're gonna remove the manifold. Just tap the manifold off, the gasket holds it on pretty tight.</p> <p>Underneath the manifold is the EPR valve along with a spring. So if you're gonna remain with an R12 compressor, it's gonna have an EPR valve, it's gonna use that. If you're gonna go 134A, we're actually gonna remove the EPR valve and we'll actually go into a thermostat system. That's gonna make the compressor turn off and on just like more of a modern day car. Alright, we're gonna go ahead and remove the EPR valve. From there we'll take the field coil off. Usually there's going to be contamination or it's gonna be some sort of low oil. They're very sensitive on the crank and there is no rings like you'd have on a car. So it's just the rods actually connect straight to the crank itself.</p> <p>The oil pump in the rear, it's just a spring with a ball. As the gears cycle, it just actually pumps. So if those fail, typically what happen the ball itself will go out of round and prevent it from oil coming up. So we definitely want to check that. We'll go ahead and remove the brackets. Here we'll go ahead and remove the actually baseplate. This is where the oil pump actually sits and this is actually gonna show you the back of the inside of the compressor. Usually when a compressor does fail due to oil, this will be the pump here. You'll see the ball, it will actually go out of round. It's a rubber ball. If the ball goes out of round, then the oil can slide through it and it won't pick any oil up. You definitely want to make sure those are still round. If not, we will replace them. We use a ball bearing, so we go back to get rid of rubber and we go more of a steel bearing, a bearing ball. So what I end up doing is more and more getting things so everything else will fail. You wanna go ahead and just check everything, make sure everything's good inside. You should have play back and forward, nothing up and down. Go ahead and drain the oil real quick. Then we're gonna look for any contaminants inside the oil as well.</p> <p>This compressor here is fairly nasty so definitely, definitely time for a good cleaning out. We'll go ahead and remove the valves. Let's see how those look. This is the valve plate here. These right here are the revalves that sit under the valve plate. You see here, this is what we want to look for. Underneath, I'm not sure if you can actually see it. I might have to remove it so we can see a little better. There is goes. So ya, a set of revalves here. And then underneath there's also another set. That's what determines all the suction and discharge.</p> <p>So on this particular compressor, it is here. As the piston's coming up, it's pushing air out of the top, which is gonna channel into this tube here and out. That's where your refrigerant will come in at. And vice versa when a piston goes down, it's actually gonna suck the refrigerant in through here and out of this chamber using this revalve. We'll go ahead and remove the oil gear in the back. I'll need a 7/16's. Here's a portion of the oil pump where the gears are. And usually if the ball is out of round, then the gears also, they're gonna be damaged. So we'll have to replace the whole pump if that's the case. So you're gonna look for any kind of damage here, make sure everything is nice and smooth. And we'll go ahead and remove the pistons themselves. And then we wanna also check the actual cap. Look for any kind of wear on the cap. This one here is pretty clean. Then push down on the piston and should just pop right out. The piston's resting on the rod. You're gonna do the same thing. We're gonna check the cap. The bearing in general looks alright. These don't have bearings so it's just aluminum straight to the crank. So any kind of oil, any kind of oil loss, anything like that is gonna cause problems. Just tear into the aluminum. See there is still nice cross hatching on the cylinders.</p> <p>This is a complete tear down of the RV2 Compressor. So if you guys have any questions, feel free to give us a call or go ahead and reach us at originalair.com.</p>urn:store:1:blog:post:30https://www.originalair.com/reader-ride-1968-ford-mustang-gt-302Reader Ride: 1968 Ford Mustang GT 302<p>Original Air UK customer, Richard Tracey, submitted his classic 1968 Ford Mustang GT 302 and like his sweet ride!</p> <blockquote> <p>"After a long search from a friend in Georgia, I imported this highland green fastback in July 2014. Always wanted the 68 fastback, nothing comes as close as the fastback.</p> <p>The chrome sets it off and the highland green is perfect colour.  The car is all original.  No new sheet metal to be had.  The selectaire needs rebuilt, but I have time on my hands to do this.  The original hoses got burnt from the engine heat, so replacing them was to keep the look of the engine bay correct.</p> <p>This J Code is fully of optional extras, including FM Stereo radio that still works, centre console, deluxe interior, tinted glass, tachometer and GT.  For the UK rules I had to put in original shoulder belts which I sourced from a friend in Virginia."</p> <p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/Content/Images/uploaded/reader rides/IMG_0241_zpsdnlatbzj.JPG" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/Content/Images/uploaded/reader rides/IMG_01491_zpspd60rbgg.JPG" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/Content/Images/uploaded/reader rides/IMG_01331_zpsfupvo1vj.JPG" alt="" width="600" /></p> </blockquote>urn:store:1:blog:post:22https://www.originalair.com/do-you-know-your-body-typeDo you know your body type?<p>Ever have someone at a car show ask you your body type? If you weren’t in the know, you may have felt a little awkward. Don’t worry, as we are going to give you a quick primer on how to know your body types, starting with Dodge, Chrysler and Plymouth (also known as Mopar to those in the know).</p> <h2>A-Body</h2> <p><img src="/Content/Images/uploaded/blog/A-Body-Plymouth-Barracuda.jpg" alt="A-Body" width="500" height="333" /></p> <p>The A-body referred to compact cars with rear wheel drive running from 1960-1977. They consisted of models such as the Dodge Dart and the Plymouth Barracuda, Duster &amp; Valiant.</p> <h2>B-Body</h2> <p><img src="/Content/Images/uploaded/blog/B-Body-1966_Dodge_Charger.jpg" alt="B-Body" width="500" height="283" /></p> <p>Applying the mid-size cars, the B-body was very popular and were typical of 1962-1979 years of production. Your muscle era cars such as the Dodge Charger, Plymouth Fury &amp; Road Runner were built and marketed on the B-body. Although the styling differences varied between Dodge and Plymouth models, the cars were otherwise mechanically identical.</p> <h2>C-Body</h2> <p><img src="/Content/Images/uploaded/blog/C-Body-Plymouth_Fury_III.jpg" alt="C-Body" width="500" height="375" /></p> <p>From 1965-1978, Chrysler’s C-Body platform was dedicated to full-size cars with rear wheel drive. Later year Plymouth Fury/Gran Fury and Chrysler and Dodge wagons represented the C-Body, with the C-Body Polara kicking off the series.</p> <h2>D-Body</h2> <p><img src="/Content/Images/uploaded/blog/D-Body-1966_Chrysler_Imperial.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="377" /></p> <p>The first and second generation Imperial from 1957-1966 was know as the D-Body. It was Chrysler’s top of the line model and completely distinct with its own body class.</p> <h2>E-Body</h2> <p><img src="/Content/Images/uploaded/blog/E-Body-1971-Dodge-Challenger.jpg" alt="E-Body" width="500" height="333" /></p> <p>Although referenced in the 80s as the extended version of the Chrysler K platform, the E-Body to muscle enthusiasts refers to the 1970-74 Dodge Challenger and Plymouth Barracuda.</p>urn:store:1:blog:post:21https://www.originalair.com/chevy-nova-did-you-knowChevy Nova - Did You Know?<p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/Content/Images/uploaded/blog/chevy-nova-ac.jpg" alt="Chevy Nova AC Kit" width="600" /></p> <p>You might have seen this car countless times in movies, or your uncle had one in the ‘70s and 80s. But how well do you know all about the Nova? Test your knowledge with these quick facts about the popular classic muscle car.</p> <h2>There Are Five Generations Of Chevy Nova</h2> <p>Do you know that the Chevy Nova wasn’t just one model? It actually started in the ‘60s with the first-generation Chevy II Nova and was produced from 1962 - 1965. The first generation had the Chevy II Nova SS, a super sports car that launched in 1963, with Chevrolet introducing the V8 in 1965, which had better horsepower at 195hp with a weight of around 2,500 pounds. The second generation was simply aesthetic enhancements of the Chevy II Nova, which was available from 1966 – 1967. The third-generation Nova was the longest, 1968 – 1974, and had many modifications and enhancements. The fourth-generation from 1975 to 1979 was Chevrolet’s attempt to follow stricter safety regulations, but it didn’t sell well during this era. The last generation Chevy Nova was from 1985 – 1988.</p> <h2>The Chevy II Nova SS</h2> <p>The Chevy II Nova SS that came out barely a year after the first generation Chevy II Nova, is the only convertible model of the Chevy II Nova and was available for only a short time. This car was the top choice of muscle cars in its era and is still sought after today. Additionally, the 1967 Nova SS coupe was the only model with a console-mounted shifter, and the cars could either have a four-speed manual transmission or a Powerglide automatic transmission. It is historically relevant for being the only model with this transmission choice, as other models had column-mounted shifters.</p> <h2>Chevy Nova Not Selling Because of the Name?</h2> <p>What about the myth that Chevy Nova didn’t sell well in Spanish-speaking countries because of the name “Nova”, which somehow was interpreted as “it doesn’t go” or “no go”? Well, it simply isn't true. Car fanatics have debunked the old rumor and the myth is even mentioned on Snopes.com. It actually did sell well in Venezuela and Mexico, and overall did decent sales in Spanish-speaking countries generally because fluent Spanish speakers know the difference between “Nova”, and “no va”.</p> <h2>No Other Car Inspired The Design</h2> <p>The Chevy Nova was completely original, the name “Nova” which means “new” somewhat suggests that concept. During the years Chevrolet made the Chevy Nova, there was no other car that looked like it in design. The unique design was inspired by Chevy's losses to Ford in the competition for compact cars. Chevrolet decided to pursue an ingenious idea, and in 1961 they rolled out the first generation of the Chevy Nova, the 1962 Chevy II Nova. Additionally, it is historical for being one of the fastest developments of a new car in GM, taking only 18 months for the Chevy II Nova to be produced after the designers initiated the work.</p> <h2>Chevy Had A Terrible Version of the Nova</h2> <p>With the 80s bringing consumers smaller, more efficient cars, Chevrolet teamed up with Toyota to produce a front-wheel-drive compact car to badge as the Nova. It was produced from 1985-88 and was the ugliest model and total disrespect to the Nova name. We bet that there isn't even a version of it around today that someone would proudly drive.</p> <p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/Content/Images/uploaded/blog/ugly-chevy-nova.jpg" alt="1986 Chevy Nova" width="240" height="180" /></p> <h2>Yenko Nova</h2> <p>Don Yenko, who was a muscle car expert, a car racer, and also belonging to Yenko Chevrolet, redesigned a series from Chevy Nova third generation. It is called Yenko SuperNova cars, which were a total of 37 cars. Twenty-eight of the supercars had Chevy 427cid V8 engines, although they were later changed to 350cid V8 engines in 1970.</p> <h2>The name “NOVA”</h2> <p>Chevrolet didn’t put the name “Nova” on the Chevy Nova cars until much later towards the end of the ‘60s. It was simply known as the Chevy II until the name “Nova” was used to describe the Chevy II's highest trim level.</p> <h2>Nova Clones</h2> <p>Lastly, Chevrolet's success with the Nova led to the creation of the X-Body clones Oldsmobile Omega, Pontiac Ventura, and Buick Apollo. Put all the models together and what do they spell?</p> <p><strong>N</strong>ova<br /><strong>O</strong>mega<br /><strong>V</strong>entura<br /><strong>A</strong>pollo</p> <p>Got any other interesting Nova knowledge, please share with us!</p>urn:store:1:blog:post:20https://www.originalair.com/classic-car-ac-upgrade-kitsWhat's the difference between the upgrade kits, and which one should I consider buying?<p>This is a common question that comes up when looking to troubleshoot your AC system and understanding which kit makes sense to solve your problem.  Tim took some time to explain the different kits and considerations when making your decision.  Check out the video below and learn how a kit can make a difference in performance and reliability.</p> <p> </p> <p><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/LWxedtCZaO8" width="100%" height="480" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen="allowfullscreen"></iframe></p> <p> </p> <p>Hey everyone, today I'm here with Tim with Classic Auto Air's Original Air and we're talking about upgrade kits so Tim tell me a little bit about the different upgrade kits and what I would normally get, so for example a stage one kit? Our stage one kit comes with the compressor, compressor mount, both of the hoses that connect to the compressor and the filter dryer or equivalent grade. And a stage two kit? Stage two kit would get everything in the stage one kit, plus the condenser and liquid lines. All right, and then I'm guessing everything is in a Stage Three kit? Yes, you get everything that's in the stage two kit, plus the evaporator and valves.</p> <p>So Tim, tell me a little bit about these compressor upgrade kits. <strong>Why is this a performance upgrade?</strong> The main reason is that it's going to draw significantly less horsepower, two to four horsepower as opposed to the 15 to 20 horsepower that the original compressors drew. Great, I always like performance so anything else about it? Well, you can run them up high, high rpms about 6,000 rpms while the air conditioning is running, it's gonna turn the air conditioning off while you're maxing out. Awesome, <strong>what about reliability?</strong> There's next to nothing that's more reliable. The original compressors were plagued by shaft seal leaks, causing all the other problems associated with it. This is very nearly a bulletproof ompressor. So these condenser upgrades, what are the benefits of the condenser that comes with this kit? Well, most cars came with a tube and fin style condenser. They were great or the original R12 type systems but almost nobody uses R12 anymore. So what the new car manufacturers do is they go with a parallel flow condenser like this. They're all coming with 134a and this will actually make up the difference. In these original cars that we're dealing with, the 25 to 40% of efficiency loss, this condenser alone will make up that difference.</p> <p>Great, and <strong>do I need to modify or do anything for this?</strong> Nope, just bolt in and install it just like the original. So on stage three kits that includes everything, a little bit more of an investment but why should I consider investing at Stage Three? Well, there's a number of reasons. The first is that you're gonna basically solve the majority of the problems that you're running into. An old air conditioning system that we're dealing with compressor failure, this is gonna solve it. Potential valve problems, this is going to solve it. All of the normal things that are going to happen over the course of the years these cars are out on the road, this will solve. It'll also eliminate every trace of contamination, and contamination by far is the number one cause of any component failure in the air-conditioning system.</p> <p><strong>When you're saying contamination</strong>, that's like going from an R12 to a 134a? No, it means oil, traces of a passed failed compressor or anything. Because it's contaminations like fragments that are going circulating through this system that get in the compressor and cause your valve reads to get damaged your compressor would even lock up and then once that compressor locks up, it starts to spread things out throughout the system. The dryer or the equivalent is designed to just help filter out some of that, but it's not going to filter out all of it and then your oil degrades. So for example, if you bought a compressor upgrade, stage 1 kit, you still need to make sure that anything you're reusing, the evaporator, the liquid line, the condenser, anything else that's in the system is clean and free of contaminations or you'll be replacing a compressor once again. Same thing even a stage 2 kit, the evaporator can still have contamination. So you get all this you spend $800 or whatever the kit costs, and your kit your air conditioning doesn't work and we find out well that the evaporator wasn't flushed out properly and now you have a seized compressor because the contamination from that compressor goes straight from the evaporator, through this suction hose into the compressor. You have a failed or contaminated compressor that's not pumping or sucking properly and you're calling us and saying, <strong>"My AC compressor doesn't work right"</strong>, and it's because you had contamination in the evaporator. Besides that is the time down, additional parts I'd have to buy, all these things that I just spent initially and got the upgrade kit, the stage 3, because I felt like my system had been upgraded anyway or I've chased a lot of issues, this could probably solve majority of my issues, especially if I'm going r12 to 134a? It'll solve all of your conversion issues and essentially this is a conversion from r12 to 134a because there's nothing else in the system that will be affected by that, but it will save you the time too that you're not gonna have you playing the part of the mechanic who thinks that you have a bad suction valve, changes the valve, the system gets recharged and still not working and then you find out no it's this valve or that the compressor wasn't functioning properly, whatever the case may be. In one fell swoop, you have basically everything that holds refrigerant in your system replaced solving a good 90% of the problems, if not all of them.</p> <p>Well if you have classic car and it's got the factory a/c system and are looking for reliability and you are looking for dependability, maybe some performance gains, that it just kind of makes sense to consider looking at one of these upgrade kits.</p>urn:store:1:blog:post:19https://www.originalair.com/car-show-theft-prevention-tipsCar Show Theft Prevention Tips<p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/Content/Images/uploaded/blog/Car-Theft.jpg" alt="Car Show Theft" width="600" height="400" /></p> <p>Stolen. Not a word you would expect to say or think of at a charity car show, but thefts do happen at car events where many of us assume that others will respect our vehicle and property. Cameras, shift knobs, diecast models, rare literature, and manufacturer branded items are just some of the many things that get lifted from cars on display. It’s quite easy considering that almost all the cars are unlocked, windows are down and hoods are open as we share our pride and joy. To avoid the disappointment and anger that theft can bring, here are a few tips:</p> <ul> <li><strong>Don’t Bring It</strong> – If your show car also serves as a daily driver, or you use it for trips and errands, consider cleaning it out before going to a car event. Your significant other or kids may have left something of value in your ride that you may not want to lose.</li> <li><strong>Backpack</strong> – If you carry a nice DSLR or video camera, keep a backpack handy and carry it with you while at a show or event. It’s also handy for throwing in snacks and drinks and will make it easy if you decide to buy that part you happen to come across. If it’s not in the car, it can’t be stolen.</li> <li><strong>Lock It Up</strong> – If you are at a car show or car auction where you will not be within sight of your car for more than a few minutes, consider locking it up. This includes putting the windows up and closing the trunk and hood. Don’t take for granted that other car enthusiasts are as respectful as you.</li> <li><strong>Throw It In The Trunk</strong> – Most classic and muscle cars have a sizable trunk that locks. Use it! Just grab all your stuff and put it back there. An effective way to deter theft is to keep items out of sight.</li> <li><strong>Trunk Enclosure</strong> – A trunk enclosure allows for you to display your trunk openly, but has the capability of having all of your stuff hidden behind panels. <a href="https://alienenclosures.com/?utm_source=blog&amp;utm_campaign=EOY&amp;utm_medium=oa-website" target="_blank">Check out Alien Enclosures</a> to see how they work and how cool it is to have a functional trunk without distracting from vehicle coolness.</li> </ul> <p>Car shows are awesome and we love to share our enthusiasm and passion for cars with everyone. However, not everyone has the same level of respect for property and nothing can ruin an awesome day than to discover something has been removed from your vehicle without permission. Keep these tips in mind and may you never have to experience theft at a car show event.</p>urn:store:1:blog:post:18https://www.originalair.com/auto-air-conditioning-evacuation-not-just-testing-for-leaksAuto Air Conditioning Evacuation: Not Just Testing For Leaks<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/Content/Images/uploaded/blog/ac-evacuation.jpg" alt="ac-evacuation" width="600" /></p> <p>At Original Air, we’ve heard plenty of stories of non-professionals troubleshooting AC issues for hours, only to find a simple mistake they had been making or overlooking. These cases always boil down to a simple piece of advice: if you are not a licensed AC professional, please do not evacuate/charge on your own. Going to a licensed professional is always worth it to ensure that the job is done right.<br />Now that we have gotten that bit of advice out of the way, we've also seen many cases at Original Air of even the most experienced car people who don't understand evacuation. Even licensed AC professionals could use a quick summary, so this overview is for anyone who wants a review or a general understanding.</p> <ul> <li>There are three main purposes of an AC system evacuation: to check for initial leaks, to remove air, and to remove moisture.</li> <li>Initial leak check: When you evacuate an AC system, the low side should reach a minimum of 28-30" Hg within a short period, if everything is in order. If that's not the case, you know something is off.</li> <li>Removing air: This purpose of evacuation is essential to your AC system because there is only so much available volume within the system. Removing the air leaves room for the refrigerant and oil. Air removal also eases the initial charge of refrigerant into the system.</li> <li>Removing moisture: Finally, removing moisture is possibly the most important purpose of evacuation. This is because moisture is the leading cause of AC system failure. Moisture, when combined with refrigerant and lubrication, will turn acidic and will eat up your AC system from the inside out, which is as bad as it sounds.</li> <li>We recommend 30-45 minutes of evacuation at 28-30" Hg of vacuum because moisture won't be drawn out by the vacuum pump unless it boils and the longer the evacuation, the more moisture will be removed. Running it for too long will result in reaching a diminishing point, but 30-45 minutes is the sweet spot, in our opinion.</li> </ul> <p>In summary, evacuations should be 30-45 minutes at 28-30" Hg and you'll need a new filter drier. Let the AC system sit for 10 minutes. If the vacuum loss is less than 2" Hg, you’re ready to charge. After charging, you'll need to do an electronic leak test. But all that being said, don't do your own AC system evacuation if you're not a licensed professional. For any further questions or concerns, contact Original Air today!</p>urn:store:1:blog:post:9https://www.originalair.com/when-should-i-replace-my-hosesWhen Should I Replace My Hoses?<div class="OutlineElement Ltr SCX141387371"> <p class="Paragraph SCX141387371"><span class="TextRun SCX141387371" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX141387371">When to replace the hoses in your ca</span></span><span class="TextRun SCX141387371" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX141387371">r is </span></span><span class="TextRun SCX141387371" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX141387371">generally a</span></span><span class="TextRun SCX141387371" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX141387371"> </span></span><span class="TextRun SCX141387371" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX141387371">concern for</span></span><span class="TextRun SCX141387371" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX141387371"> </span></span><span class="TextRun SCX141387371" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX141387371">car owners, </span></span><span class="TextRun SCX141387371" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX141387371">as it affects</span></span><span class="TextRun SCX141387371" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX141387371"> </span></span><span class="TextRun SCX141387371" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX141387371">both the efficiency of the car and the safety of its passengers. However, it can be complicated to know when it is the right time to replace your hoses. Of course, you do not want to replace a hose that is perfectly functioning because you want to save your money, but waiting too long can cause serious problems </span></span><span class="TextRun SCX141387371" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX141387371">for</span></span><span class="TextRun SCX141387371" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX141387371"> </span></span><span class="TextRun SCX141387371" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX141387371">your vehicle.</span></span><span class="EOP SCX141387371"> </span></p> <p class="Paragraph SCX141387371" style="text-align: center;"><span class="EOP SCX141387371"><img src="/Content/Images/uploaded/ENGINE_COMPARTMENT_69Camaro.jpg" alt="69 camaro" width="600" /></span></p> </div> <div class="OutlineElement Ltr SCX141387371"> <p class="Paragraph SCX141387371"><span class="TextRun SCX141387371" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX141387371">Radiator hoses are exposed to high temperatures and are given the important responsibilit</span></span><span class="TextRun SCX141387371" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX141387371">y of transporting coolant to the engine. It is pertinent, then, that the radiator hose is not damaged, since </span></span><span class="TextRun SCX141387371" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX141387371">a damaged</span></span><span class="TextRun SCX141387371" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX141387371"> radiator hose puts the engine at risk of overheating. </span></span><span class="EOP SCX141387371"> </span></p> </div> <div class="OutlineElement Ltr SCX141387371"> <p class="Paragraph SCX141387371"><span class="TextRun SCX141387371" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX141387371">So how do you know</span></span><span class="TextRun SCX141387371" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX141387371"> when to replace your radiator hose</span></span><span class="TextRun SCX141387371" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX141387371">?</span></span><span class="EOP SCX141387371"> </span></p> </div> <ul class="BulletListStyle1 SCX141387371"> <li class="OutlineElement Ltr SCX141387371"> <p class="Paragraph SCX141387371"><span class="TextRun SCX141387371" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX141387371">It is always better to replace the hose before it fails</span></span><span class="TextRun SCX141387371" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX141387371"> entirely</span></span><span class="TextRun SCX141387371" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX141387371">. No one wants to be stranded on a highway somewhere because your car broke down. Preempt </span></span><span class="TextRun SCX141387371" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX141387371">potential</span></span><span class="TextRun SCX141387371" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX141387371"> </span></span><span class="TextRun SCX141387371" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX141387371">problems by being aware of when you should replace your hoses.</span></span><span class="EOP SCX141387371"> </span></p> </li> <li class="OutlineElement Ltr SCX141387371"> <p class="Paragraph SCX141387371"><span class="TextRun SCX141387371" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX141387371">T</span></span><span class="TextRun SCX141387371" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX141387371">he most obvious indicator is i</span></span><span class="TextRun SCX141387371" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX141387371">f your coolant is leaking,</span></span><span class="TextRun SCX141387371" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX141387371"> then</span></span><span class="TextRun SCX141387371" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX141387371"> you need a new radiator hose.</span></span><span class="EOP SCX141387371"> </span></p> </li> <li class="OutlineElement Ltr SCX141387371"> <p class="Paragraph SCX141387371"><span class="TextRun SCX141387371" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX141387371">Be </span></span><span class="TextRun SCX141387371" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX141387371">cognizant of the </span></span><span class="TextRun SCX141387371" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX141387371">current status</span></span><span class="TextRun SCX141387371" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX141387371"> of your radiator hose</span></span><span class="TextRun SCX141387371" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX141387371">. If there are cracks, bubbles or </span></span><span class="TextRun SCX141387371" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX141387371">bulges in the </span></span><span class="TextRun SCX141387371" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX141387371">hose, it is time to replace it.</span></span><span class="EOP SCX141387371"> </span></p> </li> <li class="OutlineElement Ltr SCX141387371"> <p class="Paragraph SCX141387371"><span class="TextRun SCX141387371" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX141387371">When the car has cooled down, touch the hose. If it has a crunchy quality, it is time for a new hose.</span></span><span class="EOP SCX141387371"> </span></p> </li> <li class="OutlineElement Ltr SCX141387371"> <p class="Paragraph SCX141387371"><span class="TextRun SCX141387371" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX141387371">The estimated lifespan of common radiator hoses varies. Some say they last about five years while others say ten.</span></span><span class="TextRun SCX141387371" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX141387371"> Oftentimes</span></span><span class="TextRun SCX141387371" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX141387371">,</span></span><span class="TextRun SCX141387371" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX141387371"> it depends on the car itself and how many miles it has been driven.</span></span><span class="EOP SCX141387371"> </span></p> </li> </ul> <div class="OutlineElement Ltr SCX141387371"> <p class="Paragraph SCX141387371"><span class="TextRun SCX141387371" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX141387371">Knowing when to your radiator hose needs to be replaced is valuable insight and is beneficial to both you and your ca</span></span><span class="TextRun SCX141387371" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX141387371">r. For more</span></span><span class="TextRun SCX141387371" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX141387371"> information about</span></span><span class="TextRun SCX141387371" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX141387371"> repla</span></span><span class="TextRun SCX141387371" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX141387371">cing radiator hoses</span></span><span class="TextRun SCX141387371" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX141387371"> or purchasing an engine compartment </span></span><span class="TextRun SCX141387371" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX141387371">upgrade kit</span></span><span class="TextRun SCX141387371" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX141387371">, consi</span></span><span class="TextRun SCX141387371" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX141387371">der contacting Original Air today</span></span><span class="TextRun SCX141387371" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX141387371">.</span></span><span class="EOP SCX141387371"> </span></p> </div>urn:store:1:blog:post:15https://www.originalair.com/third-gen-chill-thrill-upgrading-ac-on-a-87-firebird-formulaThird-Gen Chill Thrill - Upgrading A/C on a '87 Firebird Formula<p><span style="font-size: 12pt;">Written by <span class="byline" data-module-name="Mod: Contributors: Byline" data-module-id="Mod056"><span class="name"><a class="author-link" title="Posted by Christopher R. Phillip" href="http://www.hotrod.com/contributors/christopher-r-phillip/" data-sobject-id="Mod: Contributors: Byline: Name">Christopher R. Phillip</a> of <a href="http://www.hotrod.com">www.hotrod.com</a></span></span></span></p> <p><span style="font-size: 8pt;"><a href="http://www.hotrod.com/articles/how-to-install-classic-auto-airs-stage-3-direct-fit-ac-upgrade/">Original Article Here</a></span></p> <p><em><span style="font-size: 8pt;">For full step by step please visit this article</span></em></p> <p><span style="font-size: 8pt;">In ’80, Pontiac introduced the new R4 A/C compressor to some of its Trans Ams and Firebirds. Weighing in at nearly half the mass of the long-in-the-tooth A6 compressor, the R4 continued in the F-body line through ’92. It has earned a reputation as an unreliable design because it was prone to body and shaft-seal leaks, and seizing up due to the lack of an oil pan for oil storage.</span></p> <p style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: 10pt;"><img src="/Content/Images/uploaded/0201gmhtp_formula01_zoom.jpg" alt="" width="600" /></span></p> <p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: 8pt;">Aftermarket replacement compressors have been available to consumers since the ’80s, but their focus was on reproducing the original, flawed part, without coming up with something better. Enter Classic Auto Air of Tampa, Florida, whose Original Air Group is dedicated to designing direct-fit upgrade A/C kits using modern R134a refrigerant (it’s no longer called freon!) in classic Pontiacs.</span></p> <div class="proximic-wrap"><span style="font-size: 8pt;"> “There’s a growing demand for replacement A/C components for Third-Gen F-bodies, and ’80s-era G-bodies,” says Classic Auto Air’s marketing/product development guru Dan Acosta. “The factory R4 compressor has proven to be the most common cause of A/C component failure in Third Generation Trans Ams and Firebirds. Most of these vehicles had factory air conditioning, and many of them are in need of repair and/or updating.”</span></div> <div class="proximic-wrap" style="text-align: center;"> </div> <div class="proximic-wrap"><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/Content/Images/uploaded/87 firebird how/1987-pontiac-firebird-AC-upgrade-factory-issued-compressor.jpg" alt="1987 Pontiac Firebird AC upgrade Factory Issued Compressor" width="600" /></div> <h5 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: 8pt;">This Third Generation Firebird Formula has logged 96,000 miles since new and still retains its factory-issued R4 A/C compressor</span></h5> <p style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: 8pt;"><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/Content/Images/uploaded/87 firebird how/1987-pontiac-firebird-AC-upgrade-new-condenser-CAA.jpg" alt="1987-pontiac-firebird-AC-upgrade-new-condenser-CAA" width="600" /><br /></span></p> <h5><span style="font-size: 8pt;">It’s time for the Stage 3 kit to be installed. Classic Auto Air’s team slid the new condenser into its space and made sure it mounted onto the two lower OE bushings. (Steps not shown: The men attached the upper OE bushings; aligned the upper-radiator-support cover and bolted it back into place, and aligned and fastened the air-plenum brace to the core support.</span></h5> <div class="proximic-wrap"><span style="font-size: 8pt;">So far this year, Classic Auto Air has introduced direct-fit kits for ’86-’87 and ’88-’92 V-8–powered T/As and Firebirds. (Kits for ’82-’85 Third-Gen F-bodies and ’82-’87 G-body Grand Prixs are in the works; custom systems for these years are already available.) “In addition to keeping your vehicle worry-free cool, these high-performance kits reduce parasitic horsepower loss, which results in as much as a 5hp gain, and can safely operate up to 6,000 rpm,” Acosta says.</span></div> <div class="proximic-wrap"> <p><span style="font-size: 8pt;">Classic Auto Air suggested its Stage 3 upgrade kit for the subject ’87 Firebird Formula equipped with GM’s corporate L98 350ci powerplant. Follow along as Classic Research and Development Lead Technician Mike Oliveras installs it.</span></p> <p data-spx-slot="1"><span style="font-size: 8pt;">Conclusion</span></p> <p><span style="font-size: 8pt;">Classic Auto Air says that the above steps can be accomplished by DIY mechanics, but evacuating and charging the new A/C system should be left to a licensed A/C professional. This particular vehicle took approximately 1.69 pounds of 134a refrigerant. The A/C technician must calculate the amount of 134a, which is generally 70-80 percent of the amount of R12 specified for the vehicle. That information is usually found on an evaporator-case decal or in the vehicle’s service manual.</span></p> <p><span style="font-size: 10pt;"><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/Content/Images/uploaded/87 firebird how/1987-pontiac-firebird-AC-upgrade-last-connections.jpg" alt="" width="600" /><br /></span></p> <h5><span style="font-size: 8pt;">Oliveras connected the discharge fitting to the D-port of the compressor, followed by the condenser and suction fittings to the S-port of the compressor, and routed the former to the accumulator. He then installed the suction hose to the inlet of the accumulator. To complete the project, he reinstalled the air plenum and MAF.</span></h5> </div> <div class="proximic-wrap"> <p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><strong>Classic Auto Air’s Third-Gen A/C Upgrade Kits</strong></span></p> <p><strong>Stage 1</strong><br /><br /><span style="font-size: 8pt;">Compressor upgrade, which replaces the unreliable and poor-performing R4 compressor with the dependability and efficiency of the modern rotary-style compressor</span><br /><span style="font-size: 8pt;">PN 23-261</span><br /><span style="font-size: 8pt;">MSRP $399.99</span></p> <p><strong>Stage 2</strong><br /><span style="font-size: 8pt;">Engine compartment upgrade, which combines the Stage 1 kit with a direct-fit, high-performance parallel-flow condenser</span><br /><span style="font-size: 8pt;">PN 22-230</span><br /><span style="font-size: 8pt;">MSRP $699.99</span></p> <p><strong>Stage 3 (shown)</strong><br /><span style="font-size: 8pt;">Deluxe engine compartment upgrade, which combines the Stage 2 kit with a new evaporator, effectively replacing all A/C components that contain refrigerant and lubrication, thereby eliminating any chance of system contamination</span><br /><span style="font-size: 8pt;">PN 22-230D</span><br /><span style="font-size: 8pt;">MSRP $749.99</span></p> </div>urn:store:1:blog:post:16https://www.originalair.com/restoration-versus-replacementRestoration versus Replacement<div class="OutlineElement Ltr SCX201673093"> <p class="Paragraph SCX201673093" style="text-align: center;"><img src="/Content/Images/uploaded/bigstock-Sports-Car-Engine-V--1406643.jpg" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p class="Paragraph SCX201673093"><span class="TextRun SCX201673093" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX201673093">When it comes to restoring and replacing classic car parts, you obviously want to be sure you're making the right decisions for your car.</span></span><span class="TextRun SCX201673093" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX201673093"> If you're trying to decide whether to restore a classic car part or replace it entirely, look no further. Original Air has the answers you have been searching for.</span></span><span class="EOP SCX201673093"> </span></p> </div> <div class="OutlineElement Ltr SCX201673093"> <p class="Paragraph SCX201673093"><span class="TextRun SCX201673093" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX201673093">When should you restore and when should you replace?</span></span><span class="EOP SCX201673093"> </span></p> </div> <ul class="BulletListStyle1 SCX201673093"> <li class="OutlineElement Ltr SCX201673093" data-listid="3" data-aria-posinset="1" data-aria-level="1"> <p class="Paragraph SCX201673093"><span class="TextRun SCX201673093" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX201673093">Restore: </span></span><span class="TextRun SCX201673093" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX201673093">if you’re looking to keep the original, date-stamped parts that cannot be found elsewhere. If that is important to you and your project, restoration is the way to go over replacement.</span></span><span class="EOP SCX201673093"> </span></p> </li> <li class="OutlineElement Ltr SCX201673093" data-listid="3" data-aria-posinset="2" data-aria-level="1"> <p class="Paragraph SCX201673093"><span class="TextRun SCX201673093" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX201673093">Replace: </span></span><span class="TextRun SCX201673093" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX201673093">if the parts are available and serviceable. Depending on the classic car, the part you are looking to fix might not be available anymore, but if they are, replacing is the way to go.</span></span><span class="EOP SCX201673093"> </span></p> </li> <li class="OutlineElement Ltr SCX201673093" data-listid="3" data-aria-posinset="3" data-aria-level="1"> <p class="Paragraph SCX201673093"><span class="TextRun SCX201673093" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX201673093">Restore: </span></span><span class="TextRun SCX201673093" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX201673093">when it comes to evaporators and </span></span><span class="TextRun SCX201673093" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX201673093">condense</span></span><span class="TextRun SCX201673093" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX201673093">rs</span></span><span class="TextRun SCX201673093" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX201673093">, restoring can be nearly half the price of replacing in some instances. However, the downside of restoring these parts is that is difficult to accurately determine how long it will last, as those parts cannot be examined on the inside without being destroyed.</span></span><span class="EOP SCX201673093"> </span></p> </li> <li class="OutlineElement Ltr SCX201673093" data-listid="3" data-aria-posinset="4" data-aria-level="1"> <p class="Paragraph SCX201673093"><span class="TextRun SCX201673093" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX201673093">Replace:</span></span><span class="TextRun SCX201673093" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX201673093"> if the original part is </span></span><span class="TextRun SCX201673093" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX201673093">beyond</span></span><span class="TextRun SCX201673093" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX201673093"> repair but also important to the vehicle, replacing it is the best option. Many people restore classic cars with the intention of taking them to shows, but if you'd also like your classic car to be able to safely drive distances, replacing parts for functionality is the right choice.</span></span><span class="EOP SCX201673093"> </span></p> </li> </ul> <div class="OutlineElement Ltr SCX201673093"> <p class="Paragraph SCX201673093"><span class="TextRun SCX201673093" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX201673093">Determining whether to replace or restore a part can be a difficult </span></span><span class="TextRun SCX201673093" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX201673093">decision when it comes to your classic car. You'll want to be sure that you aren't wasting your time or money. For any further questions, be sure to contact Original Air today!</span></span></p> </div>urn:store:1:blog:post:13https://www.originalair.com/the-chilling-history-of-auto-temp-controlThe Chilling History of Auto Temp Control<p>It’s 2017 and we’re just on the tip of commercially producing self-driving cars. Automatic controls for our automobiles is all about the natural development of the evolution of the car. Cruise control, automatic transmission, automatic windows; we strive for comfort as we travel. Your automatic temperature adjustment in your car has been in development for almost 100 years now.</p> <ul> <li><strong>1919</strong> - The Kool Kooshion seat cover that uses small springs to hold drivers about a half-inch above the car seat, allowing air to circulate underneath them and behind their backs.</li> <li><strong>1921</strong> - The Knapp Limo-Sedan fan, a small electric fan that can be added to the inside of a car.</li> <li><strong>1930</strong> - The first example of a <em>somewhat</em> modern A/C feature the “car cooler” is developed. It uses water evaporation to cool air, which is then blown in through the open passenger-side window. A cool looking device, no less.</li> </ul> <p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/Content/Images/uploaded/800px-Thermador_Car_Cooler.JPG" alt="" width="600" /> </p> <p style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Car_cooler">https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Car_cooler</a></p> <ul> <li><strong>1939</strong> – Packard begins to offer the next level in air conditioning as an option. The system, however, is in the trunk as opposed to the dash. It required you to remove the drive belt from the compressor to turn the system on or off. It roughly costs about $275 at a time when the yearly income was $1400. This option was short-lived because we swiftly dove head deep in World War 2.</li> <li><strong>1953</strong> – The return of air conditioning returns in the form of a rear-mounted system like Packard.</li> </ul> <p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/Content/Images/uploaded/AC-Pro-Trunk-Mounted-Air-Conditioning.jpg" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p style="text-align: center;">1953 Chrysler Imperial with factory trunk mounted “Airtemp” system. <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Automobile_air_conditioning#mediaviewer/File:1953_Imperial_2-tone_with_AC_vents.jpg">Photo Source.</a></p> <ul> <li><strong>1954</strong> – The first front-mounted A/C systems were put into production by Pontiac and Nash. Nash combined the heater and AC in one in-dash system, bring the standard that most cars have today.</li> <li><strong>1964</strong> – For the first time, drivers can set a preferred temperature, and the system will automatically adjust the A/C and heat. Cadillac introduces comfort control and the A/C game is forever changed.</li> </ul> <p>The rest is all history, with developments in AC refrigerants, standardization of the modern A/C in the AMC Ambassador and by 69 over half of all American cars have A/C. Your modern A/C units were able to be recharged by 2003 with the launch of IDQ’s single can recharge system. At Original Air, we offer many products and services to help you keep your automobile cool when the sun shines down. Be sure to take advantage of this cool weather and send your parts in for rebuild today.</p>urn:store:1:blog:post:12https://www.originalair.com/7-things-you-might-not-know-about-the-chevelle7 Things You Might Not Know About The Chevelle<p>If you know anything about cars, you know the Chevrolet Chevelle is one of the most celebrated vehicles to ever sport the bowtie. While only being in production for 13 years the Chevelle left an impression on the car industry that stands the test of time. At Original Air, we know you take pride in your vehicle and we want to make sure you stay cool in one of the coolest cars on the planet. Despite being an open book because of its popularity here are some things you may not know about the Chevelle.</p> <p>1. Chevelle shared its A-body platform with the El Camino and the 70’-72’ Monte Carlo (though it was coded as a G-Body in the latter).</p> <p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/Content/Images/uploaded/1966-chevrolet-chevelle-ss-396-3.jpg" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/Content/Images/uploaded/334f2e95064c49b379c9d4d80b87f550.jpg" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/Content/Images/uploaded/maxresdefault.jpg" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p>2. It was built in 10 different plants in 2 different countries, Arlington, Texas; Atlanta, Ga; Baltimore, Md; Flint, Mich; Framingham, Mass; Fremont, Calif; Van Nuys, Calif; Kansas City, Mo.; Oshawa, On, Canada; and Sainte-Thérèse, PQ, Canada. Many of these same factories produced the legendary Monte Carlo as you can see below.</p> <p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/Content/Images/uploaded/chevelle-facts-1.jpg" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p>3. The Canadian Chevelle had only slightly different traits in the trim and the grille, it was also dubbed the Acadian Beaumont.</p> <p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/Content/Images/uploaded/1965-Acadian-Beaumont.jpg" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p>4. The ’65 Chevelle was notably different than its later model years.</p> <p><iframe style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/IkT5m82hzI4" width="600" height="350" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen="allowfullscreen"></iframe></p> <p><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IkT5m82hzI4" target="_blank">Youtube Source</a></p> <p>5. Appearing in over 1,600 movies and TV shows the Chevelle is one of the most popular little and big screen cars appearing in such movie franchises as the Fast &amp; Furious.</p> <p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/Content/Images/uploaded/Dominic_and_Brian_(F4)-01.jpg" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p>6. If you happen to see a woodgrain console Chevelle it was taken from a Monte Carlo as no Chevelle’s had woodgrain consoles.</p> <p> <img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/Content/Images/uploaded/1971_chevy_monte_carlo.jpg" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p>7. One of the most expensive cars to ever be sold at auction a 1970 Chevelle SS 454 LS6 sold for $1.15 million dollars. </p> <p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/Content/Images/uploaded/1831e-1970-chevrolet-chevelle-ss-427-ls6.jpg" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p>Whether you’re a diehard Mustang owner or champion for the Camaro you cannot deny that the Chevelle is one of the greatest automobiles to grace the streets. Let us help you keep your legend cool with our original factory parts for the Chevelle’s AC.</p>urn:store:1:blog:post:11https://www.originalair.com/5-things-you-dont-know-about-2nd-generation-camaros5 Things You Don’t Know About 2nd Generation Camaros<p>Everyone loves the classic Chevy Camaro, they’ve been around for 51 years now and there is no end in sight to the love the world over has for this classic American muscle car. We work with all kinds of original first-generation Camaro builds to bring you the coolest AC for your ride but you may be surprised by these little-known facts about this American classic.</p> <p>1. The second-generation Camaro may not have the classic look that car collectors froth at the mouths for but this fine example of an American classic SOLD BEST in 1979 with 282,571 sales. </p> <p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/Content/Images/uploaded/001-1971-camaro.jpg" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p>2. The first cars produced in 1970 were really 1969 Camaros, because of issues with the production of the Euro-inspired sheet metal design for the second generation, Chevy built ’69 Camaros as 1970 models for 4 months.</p> <p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/Content/Images/uploaded/1970-pro-touring-chevy-camaro-front.jpg" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/Content/Images/uploaded/190099_Front_3-4_Web-3.png" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p>3. GM conceived of a WAGON version of the Camaro but decided to strike that from production be they completed a fiberglass Firebird build outdone by <a href="http://www.pininfarina.com/en/homepage/homepage.htm">Pininfarina</a> later on.</p> <p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/Content/Images/uploaded/tl-horizontal_main.jpg" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p>4. Second-generation Camaros drew inspiration by the classic Ferrari Lusso 250 GT. Not only did these please people like Steve McQueen but designers at GM incorporated “a European grand-touring aesthetic” to the body.</p> <p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/Content/Images/uploaded/40643246fee3ca420914d9cb090c1b96.jpg" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/Content/Images/uploaded/chevrolet-camaro.jpg" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p>5. The returning year of the Z28 in 1977 was the year that Camaro for the FIRST time EVER beat out Mustang in sales! The Z28 sold 14,349 models helping sales of all Camaros reach 218,853.</p> <p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/Content/Images/uploaded/silver77.jpg" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p>No matter who you are, the world over agrees that the Chevrolet Camaro is one of the most legendary muscle cars out there. If you’re looking to be cool and stay cool when the heat is on Original Air has you covered for your original AC kits.</p>urn:store:1:blog:post:10https://www.originalair.com/5-things-you-dont-know-about-1st-gen-camaros5 Things You Don’t Know About 1st Generation Camaros<p>Everyone loves the classic Chevy Camaro, they’ve been around for 51 years now and there is no end in sight to the love the world over has for this classic American muscle car. We work with all kinds of custom first-generation Camaro builds to bring you original AC parts for your ride but you may be surprised by these little-known facts about this American classic.</p> <p>1. Chevy had three different assembly locations for its first-generation Camaro, Van Nuys, California, Norwood, Ohio predominantly but it ALSO was assembled in the Philippines, Belgium, Switzerland, and Peru.</p> <p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://originalair.com/Content/Images/uploaded/190099_Side_Profile_Web-1.png" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p>2. GUY FIERI rocks the classic 1968 ZZ502 BUT it does NOT belong to him it belongs to his hit show Diners, Drive-In, and Dives! The show originally featured a 67’ Camaro SS which belonged to the show’s former producer. Photo by: <a href="https://www.facebook.com/GuyFieri/">Guy Fieri’s Facebook Page</a></p> <p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://originalair.com/Content/Images/uploaded/img5-2c13b70e04647c8bcc692b89116f4230.png" alt="" width="600" />3. There is only ONE 1968 Z28 CONVERTIBLE in existence and it was specifically built for Chevrolet GM Pete Estes. This was a play by GM to convince him to keep the Z28 in production for 1969. The beautiful piece of history went for auction in 1991 for $100k! Photo by: <a href="http://motoryeti.deviantart.com/art/1968-Camaro-Z28-convertible-134888100">motoryeti</a></p> <p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://originalair.com/Content/Images/uploaded/1968_camaro_z28_convertible__by_motoryeti.jpg" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p style="text-align: left;">4. Arguably, the 1969 ZL1 Camaro is the most valuable production Camaros it is considered one of the “blue chip” models for muscle car collectors. They were all built with a special order COPO system with an all-aluminum 427 big-block system. Photo by: <a href="https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&amp;rct=j&amp;q=&amp;esrc=s&amp;source=images&amp;cd=&amp;ved=0ahUKEwiA8uOU6LXRAhXFSiYKHUSBAKEQjxwIAw&amp;url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.mecum.com%2Flots%2FDA0913-165421%2F1969-chevrolet-camaro-zl1%2F&amp;psig=AFQjCNHN1GuFKPumjzgQVo4L5r7Ee6CSdA&amp;ust=1484077086593587">Mecum Auctions</a> </p> <p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://originalair.com/Content/Images/uploaded/da0913-165421_1.jpg" alt="" width="600" /></p> <p>5. The modern version of the ZL1 wrecks the original generations by an immaculate 125 horses! Photo by: <a href="https://www.cartechbooks.com/featuredcar/1969zl1camaro/">cartechbooks</a></p> <p><a href="https://www.cartechbooks.com/featuredcar/1969zl1camaro/"><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/Content/Images/uploaded/CT497_26-03.jpg" alt="" width="600" /></a></p> <p><a href="http://aboutmusclecar.blogspot.com/2011/08/chevrolet-camaro-zl1-modern-muscle-car.html"><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://originalair.com/Content/Images/uploaded/Chevrolet%20Camaro%20ZL1%20-%20Modern%20Muscle%20Car.jpg" alt="" width="600" /></a></p> <p> </p> <p>Photo by: <a href="http://aboutmusclecar.blogspot.com/2011/08/chevrolet-camaro-zl1-modern-muscle-car.html">About Muscle Car</a></p> <p> </p> <p>No matter who you are, the world over agrees that the Chevrolet Camaro is one of the most legendary muscle cars out there. If you’re looking to be cool and stay cool when the heat is on Original Air has you covered for your original AC kits.</p> <p> </p>urn:store:1:blog:post:8https://www.originalair.com/tips-for-restorationTips for Restoration<div class="OutlineElement Ltr SCX70564653"> <p class="Paragraph SCX70564653" style="padding-left: 60px;"><span class="TextRun SCX70564653" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX70564653"><img src="/Content/Images/uploaded/8302035868_56ed840a91_z.jpg" alt="" width="600" /></span></span></p> <p class="Paragraph SCX70564653"><span class="TextRun SCX70564653" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX70564653">R</span></span><span class="TextRun SCX70564653" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX70564653">estoration is the process of reconditioning a vehicle from its current status to what it once was. It is not uncommon for owners of classic cars to want to restore their vehicles to their original</span></span><span class="TextRun SCX70564653" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX70564653"> factory</span></span><span class="TextRun SCX70564653" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX70564653"> glory.</span></span><span class="TextRun SCX70564653" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX70564653"> A complete restoration project would include more than just the outside appearance of t</span></span><span class="TextRun SCX70564653" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX70564653">he car, but the interior and mechanicals as well.</span></span><span class="EOP SCX70564653"> </span></p> </div> <div class="OutlineElement Ltr SCX70564653"> <p class="Paragraph SCX70564653"><span class="TextRun SCX70564653" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX70564653"> </span></span><span class="TextRun SCX70564653" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX70564653">If you are considering restoring your car, here are some tips for the restoration of factory items.</span></span><span class="EOP SCX70564653"> </span></p> </div> <ul class="BulletListStyle1 SCX70564653"> <li class="OutlineElement Ltr SCX70564653"> <p class="Paragraph SCX70564653"><span class="TextRun SCX70564653" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX70564653">Make sure you have enough physical space to complete the project. Restoration takes time, as you probably know, but you will also want to ensure that you have enough space prior to beginning your restoration as well.</span></span><span class="EOP SCX70564653"> </span></p> </li> <li class="OutlineElement Ltr SCX70564653"> <p class="Paragraph SCX70564653"><span class="TextRun SCX70564653" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX70564653">Use the factory assembly manual. Even if you feel confident you know what to do, using the factory assembly manual ensures that </span></span><span class="TextRun SCX70564653" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX70564653">nothing you do will potentially harm the car, decrease its value, or delay the restoration process.</span></span><span class="TextRun SCX70564653" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX70564653"> It will also help you outline and stay within your price budget by outlining what exactly you will need.</span></span><span class="EOP SCX70564653"> </span></p> </li> <li class="OutlineElement Ltr SCX70564653"> <p class="Paragraph SCX70564653"><span class="TextRun SCX70564653" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX70564653">Chances are, you will probably come across a setback at some point in the restoration process. If the setback is too large or costly to handle alone, contacting an expert</span></span><span class="TextRun SCX70564653" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX70564653"> </span></span><span class="TextRun SCX70564653" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX70564653">or Original Air can save you money.</span></span><span class="EOP SCX70564653"> </span></p> </li> <li class="OutlineElement Ltr SCX70564653"> <p class="Paragraph SCX70564653"><span class="TextRun SCX70564653" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX70564653">Before disassembling the parts, make sure they are all functioning.</span></span><span class="TextRun SCX70564653" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX70564653"> This will save you time in the long run so you do not stumble across a</span></span><span class="TextRun SCX70564653" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX70564653"> mal</span></span><span class="TextRun SCX70564653" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX70564653">functioning</span></span><span class="TextRun SCX70564653" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX70564653"> part later on. If you have to replace parts, you can find and order them at the beginning of the restoration process, rather than putting the process on hold as you order them later.</span></span><span class="EOP SCX70564653"> </span></p> </li> </ul> <div class="OutlineElement Ltr SCX70564653"> <p class="Paragraph SCX70564653"><span class="TextRun SCX70564653" lang="EN-US" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX70564653">With these tips in mind for restoring factory items, we hope your car restoration project is an enjoyable, efficient experience for you. If you need help finding or installing new items, be sure to contact Original Air for assistance.</span></span><span class="EOP SCX70564653"> </span></p> </div>urn:store:1:blog:post:7https://www.originalair.com/should-you-buy-a-part-or-a-kitShould You Buy a Part or a Kit?<div class="OutlineElement Ltr SCX220433579"> <p class="Paragraph SCX220433579"><span class="TextRun SCX220433579" lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX220433579">If you need to repair your muscle car's air conditioning system, you might be faced with deciding whether to buy </span></span><span class="TextRun SCX220433579" lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX220433579">just the</span></span><span class="TextRun SCX220433579" lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX220433579"> </span></span><span class="TextRun SCX220433579" lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX220433579">specific </span></span><span class="TextRun SCX220433579" lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX220433579">part you need or a complete kit that includes more than you might </span></span><span class="TextRun SCX220433579" lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX220433579">immediate</span></span><span class="TextRun SCX220433579" lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX220433579">ly</span></span><span class="TextRun SCX220433579" lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX220433579"> need. The best answer probably varies on a case to case basis, but if you need help deciding which is best for your situation, consider the following:</span></span><span class="EOP SCX220433579"> </span></p> </div> <div class="OutlineElement Ltr SCX220433579"> <p class="Paragraph SCX220433579"><span class="TextRun SCX220433579" lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX220433579">Should you buy </span></span><span class="TextRun SCX220433579" lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX220433579">only</span></span><span class="TextRun SCX220433579" lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX220433579"> </span></span><span class="TextRun SCX220433579" lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX220433579">the a/c part you need?</span></span><span class="EOP SCX220433579"> </span></p> </div> <ul class="BulletListStyle1 SCX220433579"> <li class="OutlineElement Ltr SCX220433579"> <p class="Paragraph SCX220433579"><span class="TextRun SCX220433579" lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX220433579">If you are confident that buying one part will fix the problem your car's air conditioning, then go for it. There is no point in preempting a problem that you are confident will not come up again in the near future.</span></span><span class="TextRun SCX220433579" lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX220433579"> If the problem</span></span><span class="TextRun SCX220433579" lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX220433579"> </span></span><span class="TextRun SCX220433579" lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX220433579">is quite obviously a broken hose, buy just the a/c hose to replace it.</span></span></p> </li> </ul> <div class="OutlineElement Ltr SCX220433579"> <p class="Paragraph SCX220433579"><span class="TextRun SCX220433579" lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX220433579">Should you buy the whole kit?</span></span><span class="EOP SCX220433579"> </span></p> </div> <ul class="BulletListStyle1 SCX220433579"> <li class="OutlineElement Ltr SCX220433579"> <p class="Paragraph SCX220433579"><span class="TextRun SCX220433579" lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX220433579">If you only order one part, you have fixed the immediate problem, but risk troubleshooting in the future. You can fix the rotary compressor today, but there's no guarantee that the expansion valve will not break tomorrow. While you are already working on your air conditioning, you can save time and money by purchasing a complete air conditioning repair kit.</span></span></p> </li> <li class="OutlineElement Ltr SCX220433579"> <p class="Paragraph SCX220433579">If you purchase the complete air conditioning kit, you have the opportunity to upgrade your air conditioning system. Many muscle cars originally use R12 but <a href="https://originalair.com/r12-vs-r134a">R134a</a> might be better for you. If you already need to fix your air conditioning, upgrading could be beneficial and convenient. Nobody wants to have semi-functioning air conditioning, especially in the middle of summer.</p> </li> </ul> <div class="OutlineElement Ltr SCX220433579"> <p class="Paragraph SCX220433579"><span class="TextRun SCX220433579" lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX220433579">When deciding between buying a specific part or a whole kit, you are surely going to want to measure the pros and cons of each to ensure that you are saving yourself the most hassle and money as you can. Hopefully, with these tips in mind, you can choose which method will </span></span><span class="TextRun SCX220433579" lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX220433579">be the best choice for you</span></span><span class="TextRun SCX220433579" lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX220433579"> and your car</span></span><span class="TextRun SCX220433579" lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX220433579">.</span></span><span class="EOP SCX220433579"> </span></p> <p class="Paragraph SCX220433579" style="text-align: center;"><span class="EOP SCX220433579"><img src="/Content/Images/uploaded/1-2025 SYSTEM.jpg" alt="" width="600" /></span></p> </div>urn:store:1:blog:post:4https://www.originalair.com/a-cool-history-on-ac-in-automobilesA Cool History on A/C in Automobiles<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/Content/Images/uploaded/blog/first-auto-with-ac.png" alt="first automobile with ac" width="600" /></p> <p style="text-align: left;">When you get into your car that has been baking in the summer heat of a supermarket parking lot for the past two hours, the first thing you do is crank up the air conditioning and try not to burn yourself on the seatbelt as you buckle up. You probably don't stop to consider what you would have done if your car was not air conditioned, or how it came to be that way. The history of A/C in automobiles, though, is quite an interesting one.</p> <p style="text-align: left;">The first automobile manufacturing company to have air conditioning was Packard in 1939. However, for a number of reasons, it did not do well on the market, especially considering it was an expensive, flawed option in cars that most post-Great Depression American consumers did not want to invest in. It was therefore discontinued in 1941. Cadillac experimented with air conditioning in 1941, which was also rather unsuccessful.</p> <p>Then, the Chrysler Airtemp was introduced in 1953. This system was more successful than Packard's or Cadillac's previous models because it was most effective and activated with a switch on the dashboard with three levels of power, closer to today's A/C systems in cars.</p> <p>A year later, the Nash integrated system became the first heating, air conditioning, and ventilating system. Where most systems used a separate heating system, the Nash integrated system was unique in its dual nature and found success because of it.</p> <p>Car coolers with evaporative cooling were popular up until the 1960s. They were the most successful in drier parts of the United States because they relied on low humidity, but until interior air conditioning systems were improved upon, car coolers were a sufficient way to cool a vehicle.</p> <p>From there, air conditioning in cars continued to evolve into what we have today. Modern air conditioning units in cars run on power consumption, using horsepower from the engine to cool the vehicle. Although most days, we do not think much of our car air conditioning unless it is not functioning properly, modern car air conditioning was derived from various types of air conditioning systems over the years before it came to where it is today.</p>urn:store:1:blog:post:2https://www.originalair.com/did-you-know-there-is-a-proper-procedure-for-the-installation-of-o-ring-ac-fittingsDid you know there is a proper procedure for the installation of O-Ring A/C fittings?<p style="text-align: center;"><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/rCfJZnl8bL8" width="640" height="360" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen="allowfullscreen"></iframe></p> <p style="text-align: left;">The first thing to do is to inspect fittings to be used to ensure they’re free of contaminants and/or damage. This is very important to ensure not only a leak-free seal but to prevent from contaminating newly installed or cleaned components.</p> <p>Even the most minor dirt or contamination on o-ring seats can prevent a fitting from sealing once tightened. Imperfections in the o-ring seat such as this can prevent a fitting from sealing or cause an o-ring to split once tightened.</p> <p>Next, lubricate the o-ring by rubbing a drop or two of oil on the surface until there is a light oil film over the entire o-ring. Install the o-ring to the o-ring bump and connect the fittings.</p> <p>This is where many people unknowingly get into trouble. Contrary to popular believe, o-ring fittings don’t require significant tightening. Over-tightening can cause many problems, but the most common issues that arise from over-tightening an o-ring connection is splitting an o-ring. This can happen right away, or sometimes later on down the road.</p> <p>The general rule for properly tightening an o-ring fitting is hand-tight, plus a quarter turn.</p> <p>Connect the fittings and tighten by hand. Once completed, use two wrenches, positioning them ¼ turn apart [show starting position of 12 o'clock]. With both wrenches held at the 12 o’clock position, hold one in place and tightening to the 3 o’clock position with the other wrench.</p> <p>Keep in mind that because “hand-tightening” can vary from person to person, it’s essential to do a thorough leak-check once the initial system charge is added to the system, and once again after fully charged. A minor adjustment to fitting tightness may be necessary.</p>